73 H Code Convertible Project

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Got the new dash pad dyed and installed today. I also dyed the A pillar trim since it was pretty much gray from sun fade. The dye worked out great. The dash pad has a few molding flaws but I can live with that. It’s way better than it was.
 

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Wow, what an incredible job thanks so much for sharing this. I’m assuming the new dash pad was black before dying it. It’s just beautiful. You’ve certainly motivated me to follow your example this winter.
 
Wow, what an incredible job thanks so much for sharing this. I’m assuming the new dash pad was black before dying it. It’s just beautiful. You’ve certainly motivated me to follow your example this winter.
Thanks! I was a little apprehensive about using dye on a brand new dash pad but my original was just terrible. The new one was black and I ordered the one that was produced using original Ford tooling. One thing to note - there was a ton of silicone mold release on the new dash and all of that has to be removed for the dye to work. I used naphtha and probably cleaned it 8 times using clean towels each time. Use a piece of painters tape and if the tape doesn't stick to the dash, continue cleaning. Here is the new dash before the dye compared to my original. No sign of the black dash after the dye job - coverage was great. I used about 5 light coats allowing each to dry. Take the spray nozzle out of the can periodically while spraying to clean it or it will start spitting!
 

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While I had the dash apart for the gauges installation and new dash pad installation, I also put in a parking brake warning light, stock switch, and wire harness. Installation was pretty simple. Getting that switch in was the tough part. The light bulb is incandescent and flashes when activated. It’s very bright.
 

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I found this tag under the coil hold down clamp. I don’t recall seeing these tags on any other Mustangs I have owned in the past. The number matches the build sheet. This car doesn’t have the paper tag on the valve cover for the engine number. Did these cars get both?
 

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I found this tag under the coil hold down clamp. I don’t recall seeing these tags on any other Mustangs I have owned in the past. The number matches the build sheet. This car doesn’t have the paper tag on the valve cover for the engine number. Did these cars get both?
Yep, back in the day we would see both on engines. Those engine tags bring a premium today.
 
I found this tag under the coil hold down clamp. I don’t recall seeing these tags on any other Mustangs I have owned in the past. The number matches the build sheet. This car doesn’t have the paper tag on the valve cover for the engine number. Did these cars get both?
That car looks familiar, does it have MCA shows history?
 
While I had the dash apart for the gauges installation and new dash pad installation, I also put in a parking brake warning light, stock switch, and wire harness. Installation was pretty simple. Getting that switch in was the tough part. The light bulb is incandescent and flashes when activated. It’s very bright.
Where did you find the light that’s the hard part
 
That car looks familiar, does it have MCA shows history?
I don’t believe so. I bought the car last January. It had been in storage in New Mexico (Bellen) since 2010 so it has been off the radar for some time.
 
Where did you find the light that’s the hard part
I got the light from a member here (87fox72mach). He had found a parts car with a ton of great options so I snagged this light and harness from him.
 
Next up for the convertible project was a three spoke rim blow steering wheel. I had a black one with a good pad and the usual separation at 12:00 o’clock from 50 years of shrinkage. I was going to send it in to be restored and changed to avocado to match the car but I decided to try to rework it myself. Here’s some photos of the progression. I finally finished it up last night. It’s not perfect by any stretch but it didn’t cost me $1000 either. I spent about $120 in parts and about 10 hours of labor (mostly sanding).
 

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Next up for the convertible project was a three spoke rim blow steering wheel. I had a black one with a good pad and the usual separation at 12:00 o’clock from 50 years of shrinkage. I was going to send it in to be restored and changed to avocado to match the car but I decided to try to rework it myself. Here’s some photos of the progression. I finally finished it up last night. It’s not perfect by any stretch but it didn’t cost me $1000 either. I spent about $120 in parts and about 10 hours of labor (mostly sanding).
Looks great, nice job! And you saved a ton, sweet.
 
Wow! that steering wheel turned out nice!! Just went through this thread and saw the projects that you have been working on, they all have really tumed out great! I'm amazed at how well that you have been able to dye the parts. Such great improvements on a really nice looking car!
 
Wow! that steering wheel turned out nice!! Just went through this thread and saw the projects that you have been working on, they all have really tumed out great! I'm amazed at how well that you have been able to dye the parts. Such great improvements on a really nice looking car!
Thanks! I’ve been forced into using the dye since avocado colored replacement parts just don’t exist. I finally found the correct color dye for the avocado interior pieces. Prep is the key to getting the dye to work.
 
Holy smokes that RBD wheel looks great! Nicely done and I’ll wager you’re way more satisfied with the wheel than the $$$ savings. That wheel looks priceless too me!
You would win that wager! The wheel came out much better than I expected. Lots of patience and sanding required. I’ll be putting it on the car tomorrow. Can’t wait!
 
Excellent job! How'd you repair the top of the center pad separation?
I didn’t have any separation areas on the pad. It may look that way on the photo of the black pad before I dyed it but I think that must have been a product of the light/ shadow in the garage. The black pad was in surprisingly good shape.
 
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