Adjusting shift points on a C6

[Jim and Jutta]

OK Capitol Driveshaft is taking care of the driveshaft for $292.00, should be done first of next week but today I found out I need to replace both Axels. Both axel bearings were spun which scarred the axels. Plus who ever changed the last bearings cut into the axel on one of the axels. Bottom line need new axels and while I'm at replacing the 3.00 (highway gears) with 3.5

Here's the damages caused by who ever removed the last bearings.



Soooo here's the specs on the axels I need to replace. 2.8" O.D. bearings, Approximately 32" right side axel and 28" left side, 28 spline. I noticed there are some on Ebay but my concern is they be as scarred as mine. I've reached out to Don to see if he has any.

On a side note the last time I had a axel seal replaced the shop used a 31 spline seal according to the part number and they told me it I was wrong when I thought they were 28 spline, but I was right. Not sure what the differences in the seals are if any.

 

[barnett468]

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If you are referring to those two lines on the machined part of the shaft, don't worry about them . . if the bearing fits more than finger tight on the axle, it will be fine.

 

[c9zx]

Jim, If that is the story that needs to be told to get to the 3.5:1 gear I understand. As Barnett said those two marks are "mullet marks" left by the unskilled use of a cold chisel trying to remove the bearing ring. If you do need to remove the bearing ring to change the bearing, use a drill bit smaller in diameter than the width of the ring and drill a divot in the ring. Do not go so deep as to touch the axle. Now using a cold chisel, placed across the width of the ring, strike the chisel with the hammer with enthusiasm. The ring will break and the bearing can be pressed off.

Make the gear change a "While I'm here I may as well.....".

Good Luck,

Chuck

 

[Totalled]

28 and 31 spline small bearing axles use the same seal.. they are the same size at the bearing area.

Those grooves likely are what allowed them to leak, since they are in the area the seal rides on.

Alloy's from Summit racing aren't too bad price wise.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-a28-71must/overview/year/1973/make/ford/model/mustang

 

[barnett468]

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ok, didnt think about the seal riding there . . you can fill the groove with mig weld then just get the area machined on a lathe.

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Jim, If that is the story that needs to be told to get to the 3.5:1 gear I understand. ... Make the gear change a "While I'm here I may as well.....".

Good Luck,

Chuck

Chuck, you have me pegged! Why put it back together unless it's what I really want. Never let a need for a repair go to waste.

28 and 31 spline small bearing axles use the same seal.. they are the same size at the bearing area.

Those grooves likely are what allowed them to leak, since they are in the area the seal rides on.

Alloy's from Summit racing aren't too bad price wise.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msr-a28-71must/overview/year/1973/make/ford/model/mustang

Pat, thanks, that looks like a way for me to go so I can get it back on the road.

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ok, didnt think about the seal riding there . . you can fill the groove with mig weld then just get the area machined on a lathe.

I thought about repairing them but both axels have scarring and groves around the seal and bearing areas, I'm just weary of going through the cost and effort trying to repair them and then having them leak again. They did their service over 43years, and obviously have been repaired (beat on) more than once, time to retire them.

 

[barnett468]

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you can buy axles like the moser ones from currie fully loaded for $480.00 but he might charge shipping.

http://www.currieenterprises.com/cestore/productsRE.aspx?id=2650

 

[Totalled]

Pat, thanks, that looks like a way for me to go so I can get it back on the road.

Measure them when you pull them out of the box, before you press bearings and studs onto them. If you remember my axle debacle, they were in the right part number box, with the right part number sticker on them, but 1.5" short.

PS, axle retainer plates, then bearings, then retainer ring.

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Ok, boys and girls, the car is back on the road. Keeping with Chuck's request that we follow up with the results on a thread, here we go.

Don at OMS was able to get me two good axles and in the mail the day after I contacted him, he also saved me about $250.00 over ordering a new set, not to mention the 3 week (+) wait. I used the shop recommended by Pat to get my drive shaft retubed and balanced. Had a local transmission shop put in new 3.5 ratio gears, all new bearing and seals and 21 tooth speedo gears so my speedometer is correct with the new gears.

All I can say is WOW! Replacing the 3.00 gears with 3.5 gears makes all the difference in the feel of the car when accelerating. Plus repairing the driveline, axles and bearings makes it as smooth as a Cadillac going down the freeway, not a vibration one. I had grown use to driveline noise and unexplained slight vibrations had thought it was normal, plus my flow master 40's masked a lot of it, but I do notice it now that it's gone. I would highly recommend the 3.5 gears, I had it on the freeway today at 70 MPH and had no problem with the RPMs even though it was higher than with the old gears, a very noticeable performance improvement over the 3.0 gears. It makes a lot more torque available for normal driving.

After picture:



Before picture:

 

[c9zx]

Jim, I'm glad it turned out the way you wanted. Thanks for posting results.

Chuck

 

[Totalled]

Coolio. Is it still an open carrier, or did you add a trackloc or locker?

 

[jbojo]

The rear looks really good Jim. I did the same with my gearing, went to traction lock from 3.25 to 3.89 and boy does that make a difference.

-john

 

[Jim and Jutta]

Coolio. Is it still an open carrier, or did you add a trackloc or locker?

It's still an open carrier but now with the new 3.5 gears I can see where positive traction would come in handy, it breaks traction really easy now. I can see with any shorter gears such as John's 3.89 traction lock would be a must.

The rear looks really good Jim. I did the same with my gearing, went to traction lock from 3.25 to 3.89 and boy does that make a difference.

-john

Thanks John, I can just imagine the difference the 3.89 with traction lock would make.