Aluminum heads

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http://www.renndays.com/en/rennblog/17-smartphone-apps-for-trackdays.html

Look there to see how your smart phone can do some very accurate testing.

I have a friends older gtech pro http://www.gtechpro.com and it gives 0-60 times that are stop watch accurate or better as well as doing horsepower estimates an 1/4 mile times. It was within 10 HP of my cars best rwhp dyno run which I thought was most impressive. Just don't do the braking tests, it could lead to flat spots on your tires.

 
1. Do you have any idea what torque converter you have? That will help determine if you truly have an M Code engine. (6/6/2012-Read the post that follows regarding '71 Torque Converters used on M Codes).

No idea, all I know is the partial vin# on the engine matches the dash Vin# which is M code. So how do I determine what torque converter I have?
Well, you can take it out and read the numbers on it. I don't know if you can remove the access plate that allows you to remove the flywheel bolts and read the numbers, although you might get a camera at a decent angle.

Or, if you have a tach, you can get a ball park range. (You do have an automatic, correct?):

1. Place your vehicle in a spot where you have LOTS of room in front of you, like a football field's worth of room.

2. Put your foot on the brake and push like mad.

3. While watching the tach, start to SLOWLY press on the accelerator pedal.

4. As the motor increases in RPM, the torque converter is increasingly locking the crankshaft/flywheel of the engine to the shaft of your transmission. At some point, regardless of how much you press the brake your car is going to want to move.

If the RPM at this point is less then 2000 RPM, then it would suggest the engine was not originally a 4V, or someone removed the 4V converter(Rare) and replaced it with a 2V. If it went over 2000 RPM, then I would believe the engine was originally a 4V. Someone could have installed an aftermarket converter(very popular to those of us who were teenagers at the time and didn't have a clue about what we were doing). But, I don't think it is likely someone would change out the torque converter when doing these other changes.

I posted torque converter specs on this forum a couple of weeks ago as printed in the 73 Ford Specifications Supplement. If you can't find it, I will post again. I think 2V had a spec of 1500 RPM, where the 4V had 2500-3000, enough of a difference that the test suggested above should work. You should also understand that the wrong torque converter may be the reason people feel their 4V's are dogs on the low end. Instead of allowing the motor to rev up to it's sweet spot of 3000K off the line(which the proper torque converter allows), their torque converter may keep the motor at 1500 RPM. I think everyone agrees the 4V has a hard time making torque at that RPM...but of course it doesn't stay there for long.



By the way, I like how you think outside the box.
It is the Polish in me.

 
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The M code 71 automatic cars did not get the smaller diameter, higher stall convertor. Only the 1971 Q code automatic cars (very few built starting in late May, 1971) got the higher stall convertor. All 72-74 (including Torino) Q code automatic cars got the high stall convertor.

Chuck

 
+ 1 with what Chuck said on torque converters

Also I think you have an early car - I have a set of heads off a 70 351C

Don

 
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+ 1 with what Chuck said on torque converters

Also I think you have an early car - I have a set of heads off a 70 351C

Don
Yep, Marti says it was built 12/10/70, I'll shot you a private message concerning the 70's heads, thanks.

Jim

 
The M code 71 automatic cars did not get the smaller diameter, higher stall convertor. Only the 1971 Q code automatic cars (very few built starting in late May, 1971) got the higher stall convertor. All 72-74 (including Torino) Q code automatic cars got the high stall convertor.

Chuck
Sorry about that...assumed the 73 book would apply across the board....sounds like a quick way to add some giddy up to a '71 4V though.

 
It is a good addition to a 71 car but requires the 72-74 CJ flexplate as well (different bolt pattern). Chuck

 
+ 1 with what Chuck said on torque converters

Also I think you have an early car - I have a set of heads off a 70 351C

Don
Yep, Marti says it was built 12/10/70, I'll shot you a private message concerning the 70's heads, thanks.

Jim
Jim they are 9 L 8 's too early for your car if that is a consideration.

And shipping to you would be 125.00 - 150.00

Don

 
My 4v headed car almost certainly has a low rpm torque converter. I am going to be pulling the c6 out next fall, when I do I will swap in a higher speed torque converter.

 
Yup..I just took a tape measure too my converter...And its about 10 inches wide...Put it at what i thought...About a 3,000rpm i think...That sure is the sweet spot for them cleveland 4v heads...I got alot of my parts sitting in my back room now...lol..heads and most of my rebuild parts...And yes that is a myth about them being no good for in town driving..They are just a diffrent animal..And have to be treated as such...With automatic and a 3,000 rpm vert you wont even be able to tell the diffrence till you punch it and it comes alive...lol

 
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OK guys, based upon all of your input and data I've reviewed, I'm going to go with a "date period" correct, set of 4V iron heads for my 351C (if I can find them). The build date on my 71 was 12/10/70....the search begins. In the mean time I'll put up with people asking why the engine has 2V heads on it if it's really a M code engine:s

I very much appreciate all of your input, I feel comfortable with my decision...the search begins.

Jim

 
You can try out my car Jim. However, it would be a better comparison after I get the closed chamber heads on it.
Sounds like a plan Pat, tomorrow tonight is our monthly Mustang meeting, if you're able to make the meeting we can talk about it, I'm curious about your take on closed chamber heads and maybe who in our area might have the date period correct heads I'm looking for.

Jim

 
for what it's worth, several months ago, as part of fixing the leak in the front pump seal on the fmx, I also installed a 10" 2500 stall aftermarket tc. Best thing I ever did and a good match for the Crane cam which recommended the same.

 
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