Anyone have Hydraulic Boosted Brakes?

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Joined
Jan 25, 2017
Messages
733
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Location
Tavares, fl
My Car
71 Mustang Mach 1
302-2v
C4

I just got my 71 Mach 1 for me and my son to play with. And before you say anything, its just a sports roof, but were converting it over to a Mach 1. The PO did a very half ass job of it, so we will be fixing all that. I suppose they liked the 73 stripes better than the 71 stripes, but we will fix that too in time. Its a 4 wheel Drum car so those drums have to go and fast.

So I was wondering if anyone has put a hydraulic brake booster in one of these?  I know all my buddies over on the Bronco Forum swear by them.  Im sure they will work awesome on a mustang as well.  Judging by the size of the stock disc brake booster I dont see any reason why it wont fit.  So I was just curious if anyone has done this swap yet and has any pictures of the process. 

What I really want to see is how the booster mounts up and if you have to drill the other 2 holes since the stock drum brake car only has 2.  I do know I will need a new Brake pedal arm, all new brake lines, the brake kit, a different master cylinder (which I have) and the Hydro Booster (Which I have). 

I will likely need new wheels as well, because I heard thru another member that the Drum brake wheels are made a bit differently than the disc brake wheels and the stock 14's wont fit the disc calipers. (Which sucks)  It would be nice to find an original set of 15's but I could probably look for that for a year or two before having any luck.

So If you have done this or know a thread about this, please send me a link or just any feed back you have on the idea.  Im open to suggestion.  I still might do it the way I want to but Im willing to listen.

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These Wilwood disc brake kits claim to work with 14" factory wheels.

https://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCatalog/Brakes/wilwood.htm

I used one of these in mine. However, i had discs and 15" Magnuns from factory.

Mustang Depot will have sales around big holidays so you may be able to save some money if patient.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 
According to the wilwood fine print it also says the drum brake wheels won't clear. I suppose I will just get them and see because that's what's going on regardless. If I have to buy new wheels I won't be thrilled but I will, because that drum **** ain't gonna cut it.

 
Both hydroboost and electric boosted power brakes have been discussed in the forum. I believe there are a couple of forum members that have hydroboost brakes. Try a search to see what you come up with. I don't remember if anyone described what they had to do to get them installed.

I'll be going that route, too, in a couple of months, either hydro or electric.

 
I have a 2003 Cobra booster in my 67 Cougar. I had to make an adapter plate for it to got the firewall contour. I had an alum block machined. That was easy. Some of the holes lined up not all. They were redrilled. The thing that you have to be careful of is the pedal travel. Make sure you get enough. I made an entire new brake pedal and arm. The factory one did not line up. I bent a piece of 3/16 (if I remember correctly) into the shape so I had a template. I then hammered the correct thickness medal into the correct shape by heating and hammering. I forgot the size 1/2 maybe? Anyway we then drilled it and placed the pivot point in and tigged it in place. Works well but was a lot of work. If I were you I would not bother. It is not needed. I did not have enough room b/c I have a 12 point cage for a reg vacuum power booster

 
If the pedal arm is an issue I can get the pedal arm and bracket from the donor vehicle. I think it will work out fine. Regardless it's going to be a fun project.

 
I just don't understan why. I needed the space so i was forced it was a lot of work. The arm can be obtained fromt he donor but it was so different in my case it was easier to fab a new one. I just don;t think you gain anything. There are so many other areas to focus on

 
Here is my worry.

Your power steering pump outputs a volume of high pressure fluid proportional to engine rpm. The flow is enough to keep up with standard power steering which needs about 12 cubic inches to go from lock to lock. When you add hydroboost into the mix it goes between your power steering box and the pump on the pressure line. Basically the hydroboost gets priority over power steering. The hydroboost will have an accumulator on it to store high pressure fluid to give you a pump or two of power brakes once the engine is off. In my experience if you are doing some low speed maneuver that is steering intensive along with brakes you will actually loose power steering for a moment while the hydroboost recovers. If that is the case you would need to put a larger pump on, and even then it may be questionable. It is an issue on my trail rig, but it has a much larger steering system. I'd be worried you would have steering issues in autocross events or similar.

Just my $.02

 
Power steering isn't an issue in this case because I would swap it for a saginaw style pump. The more I read though, the more I think I'm going to go conventional vacuum boost and put the hydroboost in my bronco.

 
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im not worried about lack of vacuum since mine is just a stock 302-2v.  I just was wanting the extra stopping power, but after researching it more thoroughly I found that the bolt pattern for my Hydrobooster is too different to work well on the mustang.

It has 4 bolts in a square shape configuration, whereas the mustang has the correct width on the bottom bolt spread the top bolts are very close together and If I drilled them out to fit they would miss the brake pedal bracket completely I think or fall right on the edge of it.

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Then I have to modify the brake pedal by drilling a new hole 2 inches down for the brake rod fulcrum point. The kit comes with the new pin to fit.

brake-pedal-mod.jpg


With the vacuum booster mounted up the bolts go thru existing holes.

pedal-bracket-mod.jpg


Save

Im just going to have to remove all those pedal parts and the firewall plate and send those out to be blasted and powder coated, I hate rusty stuff. I have alot of work to do on the firewall to clean that nasty **** up. I wont be able to do a first rate job on that though without pulling the engine. But that will come in time.

 
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