AOD to 4r70w - Purchase a low mileage 4r70w

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Joined
Sep 7, 2011
Messages
2,030
Reaction score
33
Location
Wake Forest, NC
My Car
1971 Sports Roof Fastback (early model)
1973 Coupe -Under rebuild/restore
All, I current have a rebuilt 1980 AOD that is very low miles, less than 1500, and it has a whine now in my 1973 Coupe, 302 V8. I may know what has caused the whine issues. After much research, the 4r70w is a much better upgrade. To manage cost, I found a low mileage, 80,000 miles 4r70w for a 2001-2002 Mustang 3.8L for $835. That includes ship to. It is a crap shoot here. The rebuilt ones are not cheap. what do you think?

Opinions requested.
 
I think I would first discover what is causing the whine. It may be something as simple as something rubbing in the rotating mass. I wouldn’t just replace it with another transmission out of a car that you don’t know the history of because you may have the same problem when you’re done. Plus, that transmission requires a controller and the AOD you have doesn’t. Those controllers are not cheap. I’m sure others more knowledgeable will chime in.
 
Do they have photos of the car? When I go to the pull a part yard, I tend to prefer mechanical components out of cars that are wrecked. Especially if they are smashed in on the front.

My logic is, there's a reason somebody is junking or parting out a car. The most common the motor is broke, the transmission is broke, it was wrecked, or it was towed/impounded and the fees to buy it back are more than the car is worth. If you see the car is wrecked, you know it was probably running and driving. If you see the front of the car is wrecked, then that's even more evidence that car was driving great.

I'm actually in the midst of my own 4R70W swap. I got mine for $250. Local shop wants $2k to rebuild it. I think I'm gonna end up just running it like it is and see what happens. Even if I have to pull it out later and rebuild it, its still cheaper than anything I'm seeing online. If you aren't in the mood to pull one from the local yard, then $835 isn't a terrible price.

Its hard to say definitively about an 80k mile transmission. It most likely will be fine. But there's no guarantee. If you get it and the fluid/pan looks and smells good, just run it like it is.
 
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Bummer about the whine. I agree with Steve McMahan, find the cause of the whine first. Easier said than done unless you have a diagnostic kit like chassis Ears, where you can clip one or more Piezo Chip clamps onto different parts of the AODX (assuming the whine is definitely from the AOD). Then you can select up to 4 or 6 (depending on the unit you get) separate vibration (sound) channels to help locate where the whine is from. If it is from deeply internal in the AOD things may get confusing in the event the vibration is traveling from one end to the other. If he sound is not coming from the AOD you can keep clamping the sensors around until you narrow it down.

The chassis Ears solution has the basic system using wires from the Piezo Chip sensor clamps to a breakout box. It works well, but running and managing all those cables (thin wire) can become a real PITA. They hace a BlueTooth enabled sysztem also, which I have seen lots of folks gripe about - so I did not get it. Finally, they have a system with 4 wireless transmitters that connect to very short Piezo chip clamps, then send the vibration signals to a radio receiver. That is costly, but so much easier to use. It comes with only 4 radio transmitters, but you can purchase a 5 and even a 6th unit if you like.

https://steelmantools.com/collections/noise-vibration

I see Wake Forest, NC, is just over 600 miles from our place in Pittsford, NY (suburb of Rochester). It is a bit far for either of us to travel for this diagnostic effort. Otherwise I would be offering to have you use our Chassis ears equipment, as well as a home brewed solution to capture vibration waves. However, we do travel down to Florida a few times a year, We drive the I-95 to and from FL, which puts us really close by your community. We just got back from our Winter visit, and may not be going back down until Summer. My guess is you don't have that kind of time to wait with this situation. If you are interested in having us swing by on our next trip to FL, or think you would be able to bring the Mustang up to the Rochester, NY, area, let me know and I can begin to make plans.

If you determine the whine is from the AOD, and you feel it better to replace it with a 4R70W, I would be the last to try to dissuade you. I swapped in an AOD in our 73 Maach 1, and I am very happy with the results. But, had I known then what I know now I would have done a 4R70W initially, just to get away from the need to adjust the Throttle Pressure Valve setting, using a a dagnostic oil pressure and special spacer at the carburetor linkage. It is not hard to do, it is jus tedious. With a 4R70W, and a nice controller box, not only can we adjust the Throttle Pressure Valve setting, but the upshifts (and downshifts) can be programmed as opposed to doing like I didm increasing the Throttle Valve PSI up to 39 PSI to increase the road speed before the 1-2 and 2-3 upshifts occur. I finally got it dialed in, after a few TV adjustment sessions, but it would have been nice to do all that from a controller unit.

I find myself standing on two footpads with our AOD. On the one side I hope the AOD has a long life and proves to be very reliable. On the other foot, I would love to have any excuse to swap in a 4R70W tranny and controller, but I prefer to not spend the money to do it unless it is really needed. Frankly, the AOD is doing a great job. But, I get paranoid about "something" happening that causes the TV pressure to go below 30 PSI, and the tranny getting toasted as a result. Lots of AOD equipped vehicles had that happen when a plastic bushing on the original engine/tranny build was used, and later that plastic bushing got brittle and failed. The TV cable would go limp when the bushing was no longer present, and the AOD ended up getting toasted. So, I am preparing to install a flat LED display inside the Mach 1's center vertical bezel,, and run a wire down to a pressure sending unit that will be connected to the TV test port on the passenger side of the AOD. That way I can have a constant readout of the TV pressure under all driving conditions. Were the pressure to drop below 39 PSI I know I would feel it in the shifting behavior of the tranny, but would prefer an immediate look at the PSI value without having to connect the Oil Pressure Gauge and deal with the cable spacer block. Lazy? Me? Maybe. But I am going to do it anyway.

An aside, using the center vertical bezel as a mounting location for the TV PSI LED is a kind of natural place for me to mount the display. We do not have the 3 analog auges that were an option, as our original instrument panel was all idiot light equipped. I installed a Dakota VHS analog gauge cluster when we first got the Mach 1. I also mounted a Garmin Drive 51 GPS and (backup) camera display unit in that same area, just beneath the air conditioning outlet. All that was in that area of the bezel is a plastic "MUSTANG" filler/delete plate. If you want to see visually where I am speaking of, or are interested in how the Garmin unit mounting looks you can check out the following YouTube video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSxEBNDKp7o
 
Any clue how much of the parts are a direct swap in our cars coming from the AOD to 4R70W? Crossmember, fluid lines, dipstick, shifter linkage, driveshaft all add up. You will be in it for $100-200 for whatever TPS sensor and adapter you need. Those are not included in the cost of the controller.
 
Hard to argue with the 4R70W route. Another option may be to find an early 90s AOD to replace your earlier one. Ford made quite a few improvements to the AOD over the years. Lincoln Mark VII would make a good source since they were less likely to be driven has hard as Mustangs of that era.
 
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