Battery apron replaced....fender mounting holes?

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Kilgon

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I ran into this problem quit a few years ago on F150. I ended up filing the bottom flanges off the sides of the battery. I used a wood plane to do it and shaved a little at a time until I got it to fit.

 
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Just catching up on some of the posts. 

Looks like you did get one of the reinforcements for the battery tray which is great. 

On the battery tray. If you get the Daniel Carpenter repo he uses the original Ford tooling so there should be no issue. 

Also you can go to the Ford dealer and get a Motorcraft battery that is the correct size and posts on the correct side also. I got one for my 73 Mach 1 and it sat in the Mustang Owner's Museum for 6 months without charging and it started the car up with no jump box. 

I posted the measurements for the front end couple years ago. The computer they were on died so I could not post again. There are tooling holes in the cowl and radiator support that were used to locate everything at the assembly plant that are used to position the parts. 

While you have the fenders off go to store and get you some stainless steel scrubber pads and cut off section and stuff in the cowl drains on each side. Also put 1/4" box wire mesh under your plastic cowl vents on the top of the cowl. This prevents mice from getting in there and building nest in cowl or the heater box.

 

HOTY65

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That's great advice on the mouse proofing steps on the cowl. With my car being a 20 year garage find, my heater blower box was home to mice at one time. My cowl and blower had a pretty good collection of acorn shells and nesting. My biggest fear is them chewing on the wiring. They'll chew into anything. I keep plenty of glue traps down and even keep one in my car on the floor.

I've been reading back through a lot of the old post and seen mentions of Daniel Carpenter parts, but wasn't aware of the website or the availability. I just pulled up their website. Again, thanks for the info. I've been relying on Ohio Mustang, CJPony parts, Dallas Mustang (now gone), and of course Ebay. Awesome to have good parts sources.

My confidence on successfully rebuilding my car has developed considerably, not having to fear tackling different project issues. You guys make it all too easy.

In correcting my cars issues, especially the body work, I'm trying to stick with my original parts as best I can, but you do reach a point where you just have to utilize replacement parts, and thank goodness, they are available, and decent quality.

So far I've straightened damage to my radiator support and driver's side front fender apron, replaced the passenger side apron, and battery tray.

I had to replace my driver side bumper bracket, as mine was bent up considerably and cracked. Now working on the headlight assemblies and grille supports.

I've already begun to shift my thinking to my tail light panel, as mine, like so many others has some rust holes around the lights, and pretty good rust along the bottom. Up to this point there was no way I would consider replacing the whole panel, and intended to try and salvage and repair. But again, after reading, watching the video's, and doing a major body panel replacement up front,... I can do this, and it will turn out very good.

 
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HOTY65

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Ginger Interior
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Today I took a look at my old rusted battery tray, presuming it's original, and noticed that both sides had been pried out, probably to permit a battery with lower mounts like my Die Hard. The hold down clamps were missing and it needed a new battery when I bought the car.

I went ahead and prepped and primered the new tray. At this point, I'm satisfied the issue is the battery, and not the part.

 
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