Best top hose kit and where to buy?

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roadwarrior

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 8, 2013
Messages
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Location
Corona (Beer), California
My Car
1971 Sportroof, original V8 gage a/c 3spd car that was very unloved

1971 convertible purchased from original owner
Hi all,

After a day of cleaning the trunk area from decades of fluid leakage and spills, I buttoned everything up last night, ran the top through a couple of cycles, and had a top hose part company with a cylinder. Along with the inevitable lotsa-fluid-leakage and choice-words-leakage, I now need to buy a new hose kit.

Any input on whose product to look at or where to purchase a good kit?

Also, as the pump will now be completely disconnected, is it recommended to reseal it at this time? I don't see any gross leakage, just an old film on the pump unit.

Thank you for your input,

Tom

 
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Last set of nylon hoses I got was from NPD and they installed just fine. A bit longer than stock, but some secured loops took care of that.

 
I bought a set from NPD awhile back - had a strange noise while bleeding the system after installing them along with the top cylinders. Found the crimp on the rear hose at the pump, in the trunk, wasn't crimped well and lets say my trunk won't be rusting anytime soon. What a mess. Installed the original lines back on. Not to say NPD parts are bad, but I'm a true believer in Don at OMS now, and he will be the first one I will always go to. I would ask him then place your order from him.

 
Thank you all for the input.

Dearborn doesn't cover Mustang, Mac's doesn't have a set listed (that I could find). Also unable to find a listing at Ohio Mustang. I have emailed an inquiry to them.

Looking at the prices that everyone is selling, seems there are 2 different levels of quality. However, NPD and CJ Pony each have 2 prices, and I imagine quality, levels listed. NPD states the higher priced kit is from the best OE supplier, whoever that is. 71gbvert, do you remember which you purchased at NPD?

Also, anyone with thoughts on the pump reseal?

Awaiting info from Ohio, then to spend money.

Best regards,

Tom

 
I recall buying the 'better' selection -- same with hydraulic cylinders. BTW: there is also an outfit called Hydro-E-Lectric which specializes in just convertible parts.

 
Update...

Don at Ohio Mustang doesn't have the hoses, not enough call for them.

I have Larry's T-Bird/Mustang near by, they don't stock them either, and cannot get them from one of their vendors.

NPD recommends an "O-ring kit" when installing the hoses, but as Don said, the hose ends are flare, and shouldn't need O-rings.

About ready to throw a dart at a dartboard and order what I hit.

Thank you all for the input,

Tom

 
Do you have a local hydrolic shop that can make some customs hoses for you? I've had Apache Hose here in town make customs lines for me in the past and they did really nice work and considerably cheaper than repops and such online. I took them over my power steering lines for the Stang and an old dodge Dakota I use for getting parts and they made up new ones in a day. No problems since.

 
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I used CJs on mine and ended up using one of the stock hoses as one crimp was done too hard and the fitting was cracked. Next time I'll get custom ones made.

 
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Hi all, thank you for the input. Have a moment, so update time...

After a few weeks of interruptions I decided to get a set of hoses from the Truck n Car Shop in Orange, CA. as they had them in stock and I was going to be going by that area anyway, so got a set. Scott Drake parts, have heard/read stories, we'll see. Set looks OK, had the O-rings included, though the rings in my pump were a different size than what SD supplied. Those were replaced from an o-ring box I have in stock for such occasions. I have removed the cyls and pump, and am currently hooking everything up off the car, which is allowing for cleanup of everything as well. So far looks OK. Can this be filled and bled on the bench, or is it better to do it on the car?

I have read ATF is OK for the fluid, must it be Ford ATF, or does it matter? I have gallons of Dexron readily available.

Also, the push rod ends of the cylinders have no bushings and look like the thru bolts are incorrect. Fully threaded with no shoulder with lots of play on the rod end. Area where the push rode end rides is torn up, so these will be replaced with shoulder bolts. Any info on this portion?

One step closer to being able to run the top again.

Tom

 

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