Brake Booster

[shaheenk]

Hi Guys,

My first question for the forum, would the following fir onto a 73 Mustang Coupe Auto.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111927636927?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D111927636927%26_rdc%3D1

Question 2,

How do I remove the front springs, I have a set of spring compressors but I could not manage to get them off the top pearch. Am I meant to compress the springs to an inch of their lives.

Thanks

 

[will e]

Hi - Welcome! No idea on the brake booster.

For the springs I always used the shock tower to help. Basically using the compressor to 'pull' the spring up towards the top of the shock tower.

Our springs seem shorter than most and most spring compressors don't seem to work.

 

[rocket366]

That is not the correct booster.

Should look like this one;

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Power-Brake-Booster-Vacuum-w-o-Master-Cylinder-Cardone-54-73402-Reman-/152019981974?fits=Year%3A1972|Model%3AMustang&hash=item236518d696:g:GyMAAOSwHxVW6-qo&vxp=mtr

Welcome to the forum!

Paul

 

[Mister 4x4]

I don't recommend using a "universal" style brake booster. I bought the one from NPD [which looks very similar] that stated it was for a '71-'73 application, and when it showed up none of the mounting holes in the firewall lined up (which is critical, because it mounts through both the firewall and brake pedal assembly). The price looks great, but if it doesn't fit, it's money wasted.

If you want a booster that will fit without any issues, I would recommend the following from GPS Automotive: http://gpsbrakes.com/i-21155649-hydraulic-kit-power-brake-booster-kit-71-73-ford-mustang.html

The next question is: are you converting to power brakes, or replacing a bad booster/master cylinder? The reason I ask is because power brake pedal assemblies and non-power brake pedal assemblies have different bolt patterns (and holes through the firewall). You might need to find a power brake pedal assembly to replace a non-power brake pedal.

Hope this helps.

 

[c9zx]

This style will work with some washers as spacers. Use lots of grease on the threads. It is inserted into the top of the spring after the shock is removed.

Chuck

http://www.amazon.com/Coil-Spring-Compressor-Internal/dp/B0016ZWNEE

 

[Don C]

You can get a spring compressor made for our cars:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=mustang+coil+spring+compressor

Or build your own:

http://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-mustang-coil-spring-compressor

The correct link:

http://dazecars.com/dazed/spring.html

 

[Qcode351mach]

Check out my vid ---shows how to remove the springs

 

[shaheenk]

Thanks guys,

thats very helpful , I am going to try those springs again , hope I dont take my head off.

Thanks for the response son the other questions, will start with the pics later today .

 

[turtle5353]

I don't recommend using a "universal" style brake booster. I bought the one from NPD [which looks very similar] that stated it was for a '71-'73 application, and when it showed up none of the mounting holes in the firewall lined up (which is critical, because it mounts through both the firewall and brake pedal assembly). The price looks great, but if it doesn't fit, it's money wasted.

If you want a booster that will fit without any issues, I would recommend the following from GPS Automotive: http://gpsbrakes.com/i-21155649-hydraulic-kit-power-brake-booster-kit-71-73-ford-mustang.html

The next question is: are you converting to power brakes, or replacing a bad booster/master cylinder? The reason I ask is because power brake pedal assemblies and non-power brake pedal assemblies have different bolt patterns (and holes through the firewall). You might need to find a power brake pedal assembly to replace a non-power brake pedal.

Hope this helps.

Hey Eric is there a reason you didn't just go to the local NAPA or Autozone parts stores for a replacement booster?? They all seem to list them for our cars. Im just curious because I plan on swapping mine in the near future. And I was just going to turn my old one in as a core for a new one/reman at autozone.

 

[Bill73Ragtop]

You don't mention which spring compressor you are using. The one's that Don C notes are fairly easy to use, but not as common as the one Q351mach demonstrates. I have found taking one further step with the internal compressor Q is using makes things a tiny bit safer. Once you have the hooks located on the coils (top and bottom sets as far apart as you can manage) and have applied a little bit of tension to hold then in place, install a couple small hose clamps on the coils on the upward side of the coil wire of the bottom hooks. It's not unknown occasionally for the hooks to slip once you begin to apply tension. It only takes a minute or so to install the clamps but it will help to prevent the hooks from sliding.

 

[Stanglover]

Hi Guys,

My first question for the forum, would the following fir onto a 73 Mustang Coupe Auto.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/111927636927?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.html%3F_from%3DR40%26_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D111927636927%26_rdc%3D1

Question 2,

How do I remove the front springs, I have a set of spring compressors but I could not manage to get them off the top pearch. Am I meant to compress the springs to an inch of their lives.

Thanks

Hello and welcome. Perhaps I can offer something from my own experience as I am currently upgrading my brake system. My car is a manual trans, but the brake booster location and push-rod pin location are the same for auto or manual trans. I am converting from manual drums to power disc up front, drum on the back. I think this is what you're doing or you would have a booster in the correct location.

Firstly, that booster will NOT fit, I tried it. The manufacturer claims it will fit a 71-73, but personally, I doubt they ever tried to fit on a car. Take a look at the picture of my 71 firewall, You will see that there is a panel inserted into the firewall and there is a raised flange around it. You can see where the original M/C was located and the offending edge is directly above it. The booster you were thinking of buying has a base flange that will interfere with that flange on the firewall. Also, if you have shock tower braces, the new M/C location will put it right into the brace. Even if your car does not have braces, the M/C will be very high up. There is another issue and that is the push-rod location for manual brakes needs to be 2" higher to create the correct force on the master cylinder and therefore correct pressure on the brakes. The installation of a booster will need to be 2" lower on the pedal arm. See the picture where I have drilled and welded a new pin at the correct location for a power brake booster push-rod. There is no need to buy a replacement even if you can find one. I actually bought my pin from MustangSteve.com, but I could easily have made one. I opted for a remanufactured factory booster, but there are new ones available I believe that are the same. This is the best way to add a booster in my humble opinion.

As for the springs, if you can, do what I did and take to a front end specialist and let him brake his knuckles!! lol.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Hey Eric is there a reason you didn't just go to the local NAPA or Autozone parts stores for a replacement booster?? They all seem to list them for our cars. Im just curious because I plan on swapping mine in the near future. And I was just going to turn my old one in as a core for a new one/reman at autozone.

Yup - I went to O'Reilly, NAPA, Advance, and Auto Zone... pretty much all of the main auto parts chains in San Angelo, and [at the time] they all told me that Cardone was completely out of stock... I would've had to send my core, they'd rebuild it, and I'd get it back somewhere between 3-5 weeks, for $259-ish. GPS Brakes shipped within 5 days for $170, no core required. No brainer.

 

[tony-muscle]

In regards to the coil springs I just took my out yesterday. I had a set of strut spring compressors. These work differently since they attach on the outside of the spring. Here is a link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/oes-25550?seid=srese1&gclid=CJjU6rif08sCFYSDaQodVocLEg . No doubt using these is more difficult than the ones that go in the inside. I won't recommend them for this job. I used them just because I had them from when I changed my 4Runner's springs. In any case, because the spring in the Mustang is too short these barely fit. However, once in place it is easy to compress the spring. Then, because of the spacing with these things clinging on the outside the only way to remove the spring is by removing the upper control arm. In my case this was not an issue because I am replacing everything. Once the two bolts of the UCA are off they come off easily. I treat them very carefully never pointing them towards me. I like the idea of the clamp as a precaution. The strut compressors are typically made to handle heavier springs than what we have in the Mustang. My 4runner's are about 620lbs compared to the Mustang's 450-500lbs. This model has a pin that grabs the coil for added safety.

I did buy a set of spring compressors that go in the inside so I can finish the other side and will use it during install as described by the other contributors.

Also, as already mentioned, make sure you lubricate the threads of whichever compressor you use to make it easier.

 

[turtle5353]

Hey Eric is there a reason you didn't just go to the local NAPA or Autozone parts stores for a replacement booster?? They all seem to list them for our cars. Im just curious because I plan on swapping mine in the near future. And I was just going to turn my old one in as a core for a new one/reman at autozone.

Yup - I went to O'Reilly, NAPA, Advance, and Auto Zone... pretty much all of the main auto parts chains in San Angelo, and [at the time] they all told me that Cardone was completely out of stock... I would've had to send my core, they'd rebuild it, and I'd get it back somewhere between 3-5 weeks, for $259-ish. GPS Brakes shipped within 5 days for $170, no core required. No brainer.

Nice, thanks for the info!!

 

[mrmach1]

If I were going to need a Booster I'd look into Booster Dewey out in Portland OR. I hear really good things about they're work.