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The important thing is you found the source of 1 issue. Get that one repaired and move on to the next. I think these cars are just like us. Once in a while we have to go in for repair. You'll get it I'm sure.

 
The important thing is you found the source of 1 issue. Get that one repaired and move on to the next. I think these cars are just like us. Once in a while we have to go in for repair. You'll get it I'm sure.
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Its no big deal to me. Pretty much my entire life has revolved around this car, and working on it has become just as much a part of my life as eating or breathing. When I go more than a few days without tinkering with it, I start to go crazy.

 
That's what makes a proud parent/owner whatever. When something/someone is sick we'll do whatever it takes to get em better. If you want come on to Leland and I'll help anyway I can.

I've been working on cars for 35 years and an EMT for for 13. Either way I try to make the sick better. ;)


BTW, My broker Tnfastbk recommends a case of Budlight cans for all services do to the stock market. But I always have plenty on hand. :p

 
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That's what makes a proud parent/owner whatever. When something/someone is sick we'll do whatever it takes to get em better. If you want come on to Leland and I'll help anyway I can.

I've been working on cars for 35 years and an EMT for for 13. Either way I try to make the sick better. ;)


BTW, My broker Tnfastbk recommends a case of Budlight cans for all services do to the stock market. But I always have plenty on hand. :p
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Man I'd take you up on that offer if we weren't 4 hours apart.

 
One trick I do is use a MityVac hand pump to bleed brakes. $20 at Autozone or similar. I use this tool for all kinds of stuff...anything that has a vacuum line on it. It's used so much that I keep it on my workbench.

http://www.mityvac.com/

Also, I try to never top off my master cylinder but do keep an eye on it. Reason is that the fluid level if full means brake pads/shoes are still good. When fluid level starts going down I know it's time to inspect the pads/shoes a little closer. Also by doing this when I do replace pads and squeeze the calipers open, it won't force fluid out the top of my MC.

BTW, the MityVac has a container to catch fluids it sucks out so if your MC is full and you need to compress the calipers, be sure to lower the fluid level in the MC to avoid the imminent overflow.

.

 
One trick I do is use a MityVac hand pump to bleed brakes. $20 at Autozone or similar. I use this tool for all kinds of stuff...anything that has a vacuum line on it. It's used so much that I keep it on my workbench.

http://www.mityvac.com/

Also, I try to never top off my master cylinder but do keep an eye on it. Reason is that the fluid level if full means brake pads/shoes are still good. When fluid level starts going down I know it's time to inspect the pads/shoes a little closer. Also by doing this when I do replace pads and squeeze the calipers open, it won't force fluid out the top of my MC.

BTW, the MityVac has a container to catch fluids it sucks out so if your MC is full and you need to compress the calipers, be sure to lower the fluid level in the MC to avoid the imminent overflow.

.
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Thank you I am going to look into getting one of these soon, it would be useful to have around. It doesn't look like my MC is leaking anymore, and that it was just overfull. Front brakes don't really work at all and I'm going to try putting on new pads before I move farther, but I will probably buy this tool and bleed the front at the same time.

 
Are these power brakes? Do you have enough vacuum for them? Thats why I went with manual ones on mine, with my set up figured would never have enough vacuum without some assistance.
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Yes they are power brakes, the cam in the car is very small barely above stock, so it should have plenty of vacuum to run power brakes. The problem started years ago before it had anything done to the engine anyways.

 
Are these power brakes? Do you have enough vacuum for them? Thats why I went with manual ones on mine, with my set up figured would never have enough vacuum without some assistance.
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Yes they are power brakes, the cam in the car is very small barely above stock, so it should have plenty of vacuum to run power brakes. The problem started years ago before it had anything done to the engine anyways.
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Ok just running scenarios through my mind

 
Are these power brakes? Do you have enough vacuum for them? Thats why I went with manual ones on mine, with my set up figured would never have enough vacuum without some assistance.
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Yes they are power brakes, the cam in the car is very small barely above stock, so it should have plenty of vacuum to run power brakes. The problem started years ago before it had anything done to the engine anyways.
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Was there any work done just prior to this, because it sounds like you're trying to stop on just the rears. If not, then I would look at the booster, distribution valve, etc.

 
Ok so I ordered my new brake hoses today and bought the mityvac. I figured i'd try it out, I wanted to put my new brake pads on too. So after putting on my new pads and bleeding the system, again, there was no change in the braking that was noticeable.

So now I am tired of messing with it, it is too hot outside to be out there bleeding brakes all day for no reason. Fluid is still forcing its way out of the cap. When looking at the fluid in the master cylinder it appears that all the fluid that is being forced out of the cap is coming from the larger, disc brake side. Also, the pass. side caliper won't bleed correctly, it just spits and sputters air/fluid no matter how many times I bleed it. I have checked very thoroughly and there is no leaks anywhere in the lines. Also the booster seems to be ok, when the car is off the pedal becomes harder to push, when the car is running its easier.

So I've decided since I have the money at the moment I am replacing everything, the MC and booster, the front lines, and the calipers. I kinda feel like I'm failing myself by not being able to figure this out, but as long as the car stops I will be happy.

 
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Dont feel bad having my own brake issues here as well and it has all new stuff on it from Wilwood and such. Spent 6-7 hours yesterday and the pedal still is crap, not getting pressure to the rears as you stat. Lust a dribble of fluid and we used a power bleeder and the old manual way as well.

 
Widowmaker00,

Sounds like it's time to take a break. Odds are you have a hole in your caliper boot. Take the week off and don't let this get to ya!! These cars are supposed to be a relaxing way of getting away from it all.

Old cars are like long relationships. We learn to roll with the problems as they come up. ::tease::

 
Widowmaker00,

Sounds like it's time to take a break. Odds are you have a hole in your caliper boot. Take the week off and don't let this get to ya!! These cars are supposed to be a relaxing way of getting away from it all.

Old cars are like long relationships. We learn to roll with the problems as they come up. ::tease::
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lol a week off sounds terrible. I think I'll give it an hour or so. Besides, this car is my daily driver, when its not running, I seriously walk in the heat. :cool:

EDIT: I have now cooled off and come to my senses on the whole "change everything" attitude. Apparently boosters are super expensive. Since there is obviously something wrong with my pass. side caliper, I went and ordered some new calipers for both sides, they were like $15 a piece, and a new master cylinder, which was about $40. I figure between those things and the hoses I should be able to fix the problem. If not, I'm almost going to be out of stuff to replace.

 
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Hey Buddy!!! another typical problem for a lot of us as i can see!!.. My car is still braking with only the front discs as i had the same problem... no pedal what so ever.... Back in the past when i was at it, i managed to make the car brake ok but the pedal resistance was NONE... softer than the clutch pedal.. awful...

I can make the story long but bottom line is my proportioning valve was broken... I bypassed it and the pedal inmediately got hard as a rock... The problem was that without it, the rear brakes blocked all the time and i had to disconect them in order to use the car... Now i have an adjustable rear brake preasure valve for the rear circuit that is waiting for me to attach somewere non visible (just to keep the looks as original as i can)

The front brakes are direct, full preasure and the prop valve is gone... Front brakes supposed to be 100% preasure as the rear ones much less... that is why i got an adjustable one...

Best of luck Buddy! ;)

 
Hey Buddy!!! another typical problem for a lot of us as i can see!!.. My car is still braking with only the front discs as i had the same problem... no pedal what so ever.... Back in the past when i was at it, i managed to make the car brake ok but the pedal resistance was NONE... softer than the clutch pedal.. awful...

I can make the story long but bottom line is my proportioning valve was broken... I bypassed it and the pedal inmediately got hard as a rock... The problem was that without it, the rear brakes blocked all the time and i had to disconect them in order to use the car... Now i have an adjustable rear brake preasure valve for the rear circuit that is waiting for me to attach somewere non visible (just to keep the looks as original as i can)

The front brakes are direct, full preasure and the prop valve is gone... Front brakes supposed to be 100% preasure as the rear ones much less... that is why i got an adjustable one...

Best of luck Buddy! ;)
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Thanks, if I can ever get the lines to disconnect from the prop valve I would at least clean it, if not replace it. I might try to get it out of there again today.

 
Hey Buddy!!! another typical problem for a lot of us as i can see!!.. My car is still braking with only the front discs as i had the same problem... no pedal what so ever.... Back in the past when i was at it, i managed to make the car brake ok but the pedal resistance was NONE... softer than the clutch pedal.. awful...

I can make the story long but bottom line is my proportioning valve was broken... I bypassed it and the pedal inmediately got hard as a rock... The problem was that without it, the rear brakes blocked all the time and i had to disconect them in order to use the car... Now i have an adjustable rear brake preasure valve for the rear circuit that is waiting for me to attach somewere non visible (just to keep the looks as original as i can)

The front brakes are direct, full preasure and the prop valve is gone... Front brakes supposed to be 100% preasure as the rear ones much less... that is why i got an adjustable one...

Best of luck Buddy! ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks, if I can ever get the lines to disconnect from the prop valve I would at least clean it, if not replace it. I might try to get it out of there again today.
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I know what you mean!! i forgot how "welded" it appeared to be... jeje... You can always use the liquid that looses nuts and bolts... dont know how you guys call that in english but it is a spray can that you apply, wait for a while and it should be easier to loose...

The problem is that the nuts from the original lines are made of a kinda soft iron and you just can´t apply great force to it!...

Let us informed of your progress! ;)

 

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