Brakes question

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Joined
Jul 26, 2010
Messages
461
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Location
Morris County, NJ
My Car
1971 Conv; 1 of 17; 351C, 2V, Auto
This weekend went to a show 50 miles away, mostly highway driving.

When I got off the highway, the brake pedal went almost all the way to the floor, had to pump it in order to stop.

After the show, about 6 hours later, the brakes were fine and drove home.

Again, when I got off the highway I had to pump the pedal to stop.

Took it to the mechanic and he saw no leaks, bled the system and saw no air!

He said the only thing the he said it could be is that the brake fluid might be heating up since one of the tail pipes is close to the rear driver side brake line.

Anyone else experience this type of problem?

Could this be possible? Hot brake fluid causing spongy pedal feel?

the only brake line that would be close to the tail pipe is the rubber line going from the hard line on the drivers side in front of the quarter panel to the axle top brake junction block. if that hose is getting that hot it would be melting and show obvious signs of touching the hot tail pipe.

however behind the mufflers the exhaust temp is much much lower and an air gap between the tail pipe and hose is more then enough to keep the brake fluid from boiling from exhaust heat.

additionally if the rubber hose was expanding that much to allow for a spongy pedal then that rubber line would be showing obvious signs of decay possible weeping of brake fluid and cracking.

no loss of fluid or obvious air would indicate that isn't the problem and you have to go back to the master cylinder failing.

there might be O ring failure inside the bore and some times when you push the pedal it hangs up and allows a leak to occur which doesn't allow pressure build up. you would be able to bleed the brakes still because it would be pushing some fluid still and you can pump up pressure but i would replace the master first.

you could try this,,, with the car parked, push the pedal to the floor and hold it,, if it is leaking internally the pressure on your foot will slowly decrease and you will feel your foot sinking slowly into the floor board that would tell you the master is leaking pressure.

 
replace the master cylinder it is leaking internally.

a seal might be hanging up inside the bore and intermittently leaking.

a spongy pedal from hot fluid is going to be massively different then the pedal suddenly going to the floor.

 
replace the master cylinder it is leaking internally.

a seal might be hanging up inside the bore and intermittently leaking.

a spongy pedal from hot fluid is going to be massively different then the pedal suddenly going to the floor.
Should the booster be replaced at the same time?

Easy job for replacing both?

Thanks

 
No, probably not. Boosters usually last much longer than Master cylinders.

Any other problems such as warped rotors vibrating when you apply the brakes?
Nope, everything else works fine.

Need to resolve this tomorrow since I'll be driving 160 miles on Thursday for a 3 day classic car show.

 
Check and make sure there is no fluid leaking at the back of the mc. If its wet there when you remove it you may want to replace booster too. If brake fluid gets back inside booster it won't last long.

 
Master cyl bypassing is the usual suspect. My booster went (internal diaphram tore and the fluid filled up inside) but when that happens you got nuttin but the little pedal on the far left, heh heh interesting drive home that night. Note that ford had at least 3 different boosters for 7173. If yours is ok then you have to get the correct MC or it wont feel right. Oh, i did have a prop valve fail as well. There is a plastic connector on there i think? It cracked and fluid pissed down the fire wall. Was tough to find cause you always look at the hoses!

 
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To make sure you get the right MC, measure the bore of your old one with a set of calipers. You will see the piston in the back recessed a little, just meaure the inside diameter of the recessed area. It will probably be 1" or slightly smaller.

Are you sure you don't have a lock up someplace? Something that would cause brakes to drag so that at high extended speeds your seeing brake fade? Might explain why just cruising around town you don't have a problem, but when you get on the highway it drags over extended period of time with no cool off?

 
get an IR gun. They are cheap. If it happens again after you try your fixes. Us the gun on each wheel. See if one is really hot.
Good advice!

 
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