Broke yet another Throttle Cable.

[Cleveland Crush]

Electrical feed back is not something most would even think of, but definitely worth checking. However in my case, I know the connections are new, clean and good. That said I will double check.
My thoughts right now is to take the Lokar carb connector idea and machine my own. I don't like the set screw to hold the cable into that connector (if that is what it is). I will then use the existing cable outer, use a thicker ss inner cable and make up a new, replaceable pedal connection, yet to be devised. I want something that is easily repairable but hope I never need to again.

When you manually open and close the throttle lever on your carb does it function smoothly-no binding or hang-ups causing excessive tension on the cable?

 

[rcadd1ct]

Another thing to check is if you need a pedal stop.

If the pedal moves farther than the carb can go you are stretching the cable every time you floor it

Ideally have someone push the pedal with it disconnected at the carb. Then move the carb to full throttle. They should line up. If the cable is short that may be the issue.

 

[Sheriff41]

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-9a758-h.html?sessionthemeid=26

 

[Stanglover]

When you manually open and close the throttle lever on your carb does it function smoothly-no binding or hang-ups causing excessive tension on the cable?

Yes, no problems there.
I was just at a local shop that repair snowmobiles and ATV's etc. I wasn't able to get exactly what I'm looking for regards a cable with a ball at one end. The guy made a good suggestion about why it breaks at the same point. If you can imagine this; when the throttle is opened, the cable is pulled but when it returns it flexes at the pedal and maybe because the cable is too flexible, over time, it fatigues and breaks. That is logical to me and something I'm definitely going to look into.

 

[Stanglover]

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-9a758-h.html?sessionthemeid=26

Thanks Chuck, but I'll pass on that one. However it was interesting to look at the original type and the fittings used. Gave me some ideas.

 

[Stanglover]

Another thing to check is if you need a pedal stop.

If the pedal moves farther than the carb can go you are stretching the cable every time you floor it

Ideally have someone push the pedal with it disconnected at the carb. Then move the carb to full throttle. They should line up. If the cable is short that may be the issue.

Thanks, I'll be checking everything, but I don't believe that to be the problem.
I'll certainly post my findings as I get this resolved, hopefully forever.
It may be sometime before I get to it now though.

 

[My02Edge]

Electrical feed back is not something most would even think of, but definitely worth checking. However in my case, I know the connections are new, clean and good. That said I will double check.
My thoughts right now is to take the Lokar carb connector idea and machine my own. I don't like the set screw to hold the cable into that connector (if that is what it is). I will then use the existing cable outer, use a thicker ss inner cable and make up a new, replaceable pedal connection, yet to be devised. I want something that is easily repairable but hope I never need to again.

Hey Geoff I had mine break a while back. Replaced with an NOS one and all good.

 

[Stanglover]

Well guys, I just scored an NOS throttle cable for 20 bucks Cdn. It has only a part of the label, but with the plastic clip end, I think it's a 73. The guy I got it from was a Ford parts manager and just happened to have this in his "stash". All I can see appears to be 07- 9A, or it could be 0Z -9A, too hard to read. Steve, any ideas???
So, now I need to pull the pedal out of the car to see if I can adapt this to my 71. If not I still have plan A in the works that will give me a replaceable inner cable should it ever break again.

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd talk to @Motorcity Mustang about a correct gas pedal for that style cable.

 

[Stanglover]

I'd talk to @Motorcity Mustang about a correct gas pedal for that style cable.

If I can't come up with a workable, dependable fix, not a bad idea.
I'm going off line for a week, so nothing getting done till after that time.

 

[tony-muscle]

I am glad I kept the OEM with my Fitech and carry the repop as spare. I suggest you still keep a repop in the car all the time just in case.

 

[Stanglover]

I am glad I kept the OEM with my Fitech and carry the repop as spare. I suggest you still keep a repop in the car all the time just in case.

Hi Tony,
I am having the machine work done that hopefully will work and allow me to be able to change out the cable should it ever break again. As for the OEM one I got, for sure I'm going to look at the best way to use that, but even they are not infallible.
I'll repost on this a bit later when I've had chance to work on the problem.

 

[Stanglover]

I've been away for a few days and after I got back, nothing but rain, so the cable project has been on hold as I need the car out of the garage to work on it.
I think I may have seen what could be causing the cable to break at the same place each time. However until I get a bit more time to investigate further, I can't be sure. What I did notice is there seems to be a mismatch in alignment of the pedal arm and the cable hole through the firewall. The pedal has never been out of the car, so could it just be my old eyes? The other obvious thing is there is no stop on the pedal to prevent over stretching the cable at WOT. As I'm now making my own cable, I can add a stop and adjust the cable length as needed. I am also using a thicker 5/64th cable so with any luck, I'll never have to replace it again. I'm currently having the carb end attachment machined up, so once I have that in hand, I'll take pics and update.

 

[Stanglover]

An update on progress so far;
I figured out how and what was needed to get a good working carb end fitting.
My first idea was simply machine a 5/16" x 2"grade 8 bolt head ( for color and strength) and then thread a 1/4" short bolt with a hole drilled through it, into it to hold the cable.
What I found was there must be a solid contact between the first plastic sleeve and the carb fitting, so I needed to grind the 1/4" bolt head round to 5/16". I had to do it this way as I don't have access to a lathe. No big deal, it's not pretty, but it works. This gave me full wot without binding the spring, so that end is DONE!
Now to pull the pedal and figure out how to attach the cable the new cable so that it is replaceable. I also need to add a stop of some sort so as not to over stretch the cable as this may have been a factor in it breaking at the same place 3 times.
Here are a few pics of progress so far.
Pic #2443 is what didn't work, first idea.
Also I noted that the bracket on the manifold needs to be adjusted as you can see there is a dip in the spring sleeve. I want to see that straight.

 

[basstrix]

I suggest you get some longer bolts and spacers to put under the throttle cable bracket. The section of cable between the throttle attachment ball and bracket needs to be horizontal, or close to it. Alternatively, the bracket can be bent to angle the cable so that it points directly at the ball on the throttle. I can take a picture if you'd like to see one with spacers.

 

[tony-muscle]

I suggest you get some longer bolts and spacers to put under the throttle cable bracket. The section of cable between the throttle attachment ball and bracket needs to be horizontal, or close to it. Alternatively, the bracket can be bent to angle the cable so that it points directly at the ball on the throttle. I can take a picture if you'd like to see one with spacers.

This is exactly how I did on mine. With different manifolds and carb/EFI combos the relative height changes. I got longer bolts and spacers from the hardware store that I eventually cut until the cable was horizontal with the linkage.

 

[Stanglover]

I suggest you get some longer bolts and spacers to put under the throttle cable bracket. The section of cable between the throttle attachment ball and bracket needs to be horizontal, or close to it. Alternatively, the bracket can be bent to angle the cable so that it points directly at the ball on the throttle. I can take a picture if you'd like to see one with spacers.

Thanks, already done.
Actually, the reason is I have a 1" fiber spacer under the carb and somehow "forgot" to add spacers under the bracket.

 

[Stanglover]

Well finally, finally done and it works!!
What I thought would be maybe a days job the make and replace the cable has taken 2 full days of back ache, shoulder aches, lumps and bruises. It's a good thing I'm a smaller guy as a bigger person would have a hard time crawling under the dash, on your back and straining to see wtf you're doing.
The frustration level went through the roof on more than one occasion and the curse words were flying ,believe me.
Anyway, what I now have is I hope, a stronger cable that hopefully will not break again, fingers crossed!
For the technical stuff, the length of the new cable from center of the carb fitting, uncompressed, to the center of the eye is 21 inches. I cut the cable cover that comes through the firewall back 1/2"and added a stop block at that point. This will allow a bit more cable between the stop block and the end of the eye fitting, which is where the other cables have all broken.
I think too much strain on the cable could be a factor because on the 71-72's, there is no pedal stop and all too easy to over stretch the cable. I added one made from the rubber clamp bolt from a toggle clamp. Once in the car and adjustments made, I hope this will end the over stretching that has been going on.
Anyway folks, that's it. If it breaks again, I can make a new cable in minutes now I have all the dimensions on file. The hard part is pulling the seat, and crawling on my back under the dash, however next time it should only take about a n hour............... yeah sure it will!!!
Here is where I place the stop bolt. Partly because the bolt diameter is 5/16" and the nuts provided fit neatly inside the pedal arm at that point, meaning I only need one nut and a lock washer to secure it. I couldn't set it until it was in the car.

 

[tony-muscle]

Well finally, finally done and it works!!
What I thought would be maybe a days job the make and replace the cable has taken 2 full days of back ache, shoulder aches, lumps and bruises. It's a good thing I'm a smaller guy as a bigger person would have a hard time crawling under the dash, on your back and staining to see wtf you're doing.
The frustration level went through the roof on more than one occasion and the curse words were flying ,believe me.
Anyway, what I now have is I hope, a stronger cable that hopefully will not break again, fingers crossed!
For the technical stuff, the length of the new cable from center of the carb fitting, uncompressed, to the center of the eye is 21 inches. I cut the cable cover that comes through the firewall back 1/2"and added a stop block at that point. This will allow a bit more cable between the stop block and the end of the eye fitting, which is where the other cables have all broken.
I think too much strain on the cable could be a factor because on the 71-72's, there is no pedal stop and all too easy to over stretch the cable. I added one made from the rubber clamp bolt from a toggle clamp. Once in the car and adjustments made, I hope this will end the over stretching that has been going on.
Anyway folks, that's it. If it breaks again, I can make a new cable in minutes now I have all the dimensions on file. The hard part is pulling the seat, and crawling on my back under the dash, however next time it should only take about a n hour............... yeah sure it will!!!
Here is where I place the stop bolt. Partly because the bolt diameter is 5/16" and the nuts provided fit neatly inside the pedal arm at that point, meaning I only need one nut and a lock washer to secure it. I could set it until it was in the car.

I am eying this since my throttle cable has a few strands broken. My issue is that I drive full throttle a lot but I think I am lucky that the carpet acts as a stop since I need to press down on the carpet for me to get 100% in the TPS.

 

[Stanglover]

I am eying this since my throttle cable has a few strands broken. My issue is that I drive full throttle a lot but I think I am lucky that the carpet acts as a stop since I need to press down on the carpet for me to get 100% in the TPS.

I'm wishing I'd taken a few more pics Tony, but I can expand on what I did if that helps.
I may prep another cable now I have the length worked out, but use SS aircraft cable instead of galvanized a/c, not that I think the galvanized won't stand up, but also to have a spare on hand.