Broke yet another Throttle Cable.

[Cleveland Crush]

Electrical feed back is not something most would even think of, but definitely worth checking. However in my case, I know the connections are new, clean and good. That said I will double check.
My thoughts right now is to take the Lokar carb connector idea and machine my own. I don't like the set screw to hold the cable into that connector (if that is what it is). I will then use the existing cable outer, use a thicker ss inner cable and make up a new, replaceable pedal connection, yet to be devised. I want something that is easily repairable but hope I never need to again.

When you manually open and close the throttle lever on your carb does it function smoothly-no binding or hang-ups causing excessive tension on the cable?

 

[rcadd1ct]

Another thing to check is if you need a pedal stop.

If the pedal moves farther than the carb can go you are stretching the cable every time you floor it

Ideally have someone push the pedal with it disconnected at the carb. Then move the carb to full throttle. They should line up. If the cable is short that may be the issue.

 

[Sheriff41]

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-9a758-h.html?sessionthemeid=26

 

[Stanglover]

When you manually open and close the throttle lever on your carb does it function smoothly-no binding or hang-ups causing excessive tension on the cable?

Yes, no problems there.
I was just at a local shop that repair snowmobiles and ATV's etc. I wasn't able to get exactly what I'm looking for regards a cable with a ball at one end. The guy made a good suggestion about why it breaks at the same point. If you can imagine this; when the throttle is opened, the cable is pulled but when it returns it flexes at the pedal and maybe because the cable is too flexible, over time, it fatigues and breaks. That is logical to me and something I'm definitely going to look into.

 

[Stanglover]

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d1zz-9a758-h.html?sessionthemeid=26

Thanks Chuck, but I'll pass on that one. However it was interesting to look at the original type and the fittings used. Gave me some ideas.

 

[Stanglover]

Another thing to check is if you need a pedal stop.

If the pedal moves farther than the carb can go you are stretching the cable every time you floor it

Ideally have someone push the pedal with it disconnected at the carb. Then move the carb to full throttle. They should line up. If the cable is short that may be the issue.

Thanks, I'll be checking everything, but I don't believe that to be the problem.
I'll certainly post my findings as I get this resolved, hopefully forever.
It may be sometime before I get to it now though.

 

[My02Edge]

Electrical feed back is not something most would even think of, but definitely worth checking. However in my case, I know the connections are new, clean and good. That said I will double check.
My thoughts right now is to take the Lokar carb connector idea and machine my own. I don't like the set screw to hold the cable into that connector (if that is what it is). I will then use the existing cable outer, use a thicker ss inner cable and make up a new, replaceable pedal connection, yet to be devised. I want something that is easily repairable but hope I never need to again.

Hey Geoff I had mine break a while back. Replaced with an NOS one and all good.

 

[Stanglover]

Well guys, I just scored an NOS throttle cable for 20 bucks Cdn. It has only a part of the label, but with the plastic clip end, I think it's a 73. The guy I got it from was a Ford parts manager and just happened to have this in his "stash". All I can see appears to be 07- 9A, or it could be 0Z -9A, too hard to read. Steve, any ideas???
So, now I need to pull the pedal out of the car to see if I can adapt this to my 71. If not I still have plan A in the works that will give me a replaceable inner cable should it ever break again.

 

[Hemikiller]

I'd talk to @Motorcity Mustang about a correct gas pedal for that style cable.

 

[Stanglover]

I'd talk to @Motorcity Mustang about a correct gas pedal for that style cable.

If I can't come up with a workable, dependable fix, not a bad idea.
I'm going off line for a week, so nothing getting done till after that time.

 

[tony-muscle]

I am glad I kept the OEM with my Fitech and carry the repop as spare. I suggest you still keep a repop in the car all the time just in case.

 

[Stanglover]

I am glad I kept the OEM with my Fitech and carry the repop as spare. I suggest you still keep a repop in the car all the time just in case.

Hi Tony,
I am having the machine work done that hopefully will work and allow me to be able to change out the cable should it ever break again. As for the OEM one I got, for sure I'm going to look at the best way to use that, but even they are not infallible.
I'll repost on this a bit later when I've had chance to work on the problem.

 

[Stanglover]

I've been away for a few days and after I got back, nothing but rain, so the cable project has been on hold as I need the car out of the garage to work on it.
I think I may have seen what could be causing the cable to break at the same place each time. However until I get a bit more time to investigate further, I can't be sure. What I did notice is there seems to be a mismatch in alignment of the pedal arm and the cable hole through the firewall. The pedal has never been out of the car, so could it just be my old eyes? The other obvious thing is there is no stop on the pedal to prevent over stretching the cable at WOT. As I'm now making my own cable, I can add a stop and adjust the cable length as needed. I am also using a thicker 5/64th cable so with any luck, I'll never have to replace it again. I'm currently having the carb end attachment machined up, so once I have that in hand, I'll take pics and update.

 

[Stanglover]

An update on progress so far;
I figured out how and what was needed to get a good working carb end fitting.
My first idea was simply machine a 5/16" x 2"grade 8 bolt head ( for color and strength) and then thread a 1/4" short bolt with a hole drilled through it, into it to hold the cable.
What I found was there must be a solid contact between the first plastic sleeve and the carb fitting, so I needed to grind the 1/4" bolt head round to 5/16". I had to do it this way as I don't have access to a lathe. No big deal, it's not pretty, but it works. This gave me full wot without binding the spring, so that end is DONE!
Now to pull the pedal and figure out how to attach the cable the new cable so that it is replaceable. I also need to add a stop of some sort so as not to over stretch the cable as this may have been a factor in it breaking at the same place 3 times.
Here are a few pics of progress so far.
Pic #2443 is what didn't work, first idea.
Also I noted that the bracket on the manifold needs to be adjusted as you can see there is a dip in the spring sleeve. I want to see that straight.