C6 conversion to Toploader 4 speed

[Manu Mach1]

It must be this?

https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/bbk/

I take any advise that would be better for me and my car.

Thank you everyone.

 

[Stanglover]

It must be this?

https://www.mustangsteve.com/product/bbk/

I take any advise that would be better for me and my car.

Thank you everyone.

Yes, that's the kit I bought. Also read the post in the link above in Tony Muscle's post. 

When I did mine, I found that the bracket sides were not parallel which meant the bearing carrier rings needed to be ground some to get the bearings and shaft to line up correctly. I hope that make sense to you. The bracket you have (or getting) may not need this slight alteration. The aim is to get it all working without any resistance.

It will be a worthwhile upgrade for sure although quite a bit of work.

Geoff.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I know now why I was unsure about the 14 or 17" tailhousing.

The Mach 1 Mexican Sprint, which has as well a Toploader, with the 17" tailhousing. The reason is because those cars came from factory with Dana 44 rear end. I didn't measure the drive shaft yet, but I am almost sure it will be around 47", the one used on A/T.

That said, I found a RUG BJ or BJ1, no tag on it. This is the same transmission I've got on my 73 Grandé.

Plus I also came back with a Lakewood 15200 blowout proof, Hurst compétion shifter, fork, equalizer bar, crossmember and the best , a drive shaft, 50+, the one with the C6 is 47+.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Is roller bearings C5ZZ-2478-rb is what I need to adapt brake and clutch pedals on my 73 AT pedal bracket?

 

[Hemikiller]

I believe that's what people are using, Tony-muscle did the roller conversion IIRC.

The 71-73 pedal shafts are divorced, the clutch pedal pivot shaft rides in bushings that are pressed into those two "double d" shaped holes.

 

[Manu Mach1]

Yep, good info here as well

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-bear...utch-pedal

I read, from 73pony that it's not absolutly necessary to weld on the AT pedal bracket as the circlips (SD roller bearing kit) are so tight that it's hold the pedal axle.

Also, I noticed that the mounting from the AT brake pedal is wider than the one from the MT brake pedal.

Is this bearing kit catch up the gap?

 

[tony-muscle]

I welded it because I was not able to get the clips in. I also wanted to weld it just in case. It needs just a few tacks. I didn't replace the brake pedal since I kept the AT pedal. I just cut the metal pad to fit the shorter rubber pad.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I welded it because I was not able to get the clips in. I also wanted to weld it just in case. It needs just a few tacks. I didn't replace the brake pedal since I kept the AT pedal. I just cut the metal pad to fit the shorter rubber pad.

Thanks Tony  ::thumb::

 

[dgmoody82]

Sorry it took me a while to get here but these are the pictures I promised.https://imgbb.com/upload?mode=mybb&code=hotlink&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.7173mustangs.com%2Fthread-c6-conversion-to-toploader-4-speed%3Fpage%3D3

 

[dgmoody82]

Sorry it took me a while to get here but these are the pictures I promised.https://imgbb.com/upload?mode=mybb&code=hotlink&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.7173mustangs.com%2Fthread-c6-conversion-to-toploader-4-speed%3Fpage%3D3

Try this again maybe!

 

[dgmoody82]

I know I won't be using the clutch dish, pressure plate or bearings. I'll be buying new parts. The transmissions is in storage at the moment. All the parts shown above (except cable conversion) are from my dad's 73 that ran 10s in the quarter before he died in the 80s. Most of the parts that I am reusing are from the same drive line so all I have to do is reassemble.

 

[Manu Mach1]

The bellhousing looks like a Lakewood 15200 ? Funny, I grab one when I found the Toploader a few weeks ago

 

[dgmoody82]

this will be great!! I think the only diffrence btween our builds is, you are going with the all original mechanical clutch linkage, and i am going with the cable set up from MDL. Should be intresting!!!!!!!!

 

[Manu Mach1]

After a "few" weeks, some updates.

The pedal assembly is in place, I finally drilled the clutch pedal axle to insert a beta pin (a washer between the bearing and the pin). The steering column is still out and the brake booster too.

 

[Manu Mach1]

It's not funny when all goes right. Brake booster is in place, so I connect it to the brake pedal, but it's now too close to the firewall. I thought was the angle of the pedal that was not the same as the automatic brake one, but they are the same. The lenght of the booster rod is also the same. Any idea ?

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I sort of got into this one late. If I were you I would go to a W.C. World Class T-5 and not go with the toploader. I am gathering parts to do a swap in a 1973 Grande. I got the WC t-5 our of a 1995 GT Mustang I think is last year for the 302 after that 4.6 cammer so bell housing is different.
I got the Bell housing, flywheel that I cannot use off 302 going on a 351, pressure plate, clutch, transmission, and Hurst short throw shifter for $550 USD. The later T-5 have a better steel in the gears and better syncronizers. With the zero end play tapered bearings and the automatic transmission fluid they can take more torque than a toploader. Gives you and over drive 5 th. gear. Lots are doing the swap and have not seen a post of anyone breaking one.
I cannot afford to go buy the racing versions they sell in 5 and 6 speed. I have two toploaders here so I chose the T-5 over them.
I have a 1984 mustang with a T-5 and a 1985 SVO mustang with T-5 and they lived through two teenage drivers and all I could toss at them.

 

[Manu Mach1]

I continue with the Toploader and the original Zbar link. Not easy here to find trannies as in the US. My rear end is 3.25 and the Toploader a wide ratio, won't be so bad to drive. A fifth gear would be appreciated, but...

Need now to find out where I messed up to get the brake pedal too close to the firewall.

 

[timachone]

Manu, 

nice to hear from you again  :thumb:

The only two things I could imagine that the upper angle point of the brake pedal is at a different position and/or the brake booster rod isn't fully retracted backwards. Did you have a check on the proper function of the booster?  

 

[Manu Mach1]

Hi Tim, nice to read you too

Well, the booster is ok, it's a new one, and the rod is at the same length as the previous one, the pedal has the same angle as the one I replaced. The only thing I did, is to install this kit from Scott Drake with the bearings, my guess is that the angle changed because of this kit, I can't stop thinking from where it could be. Till now for me it's a mystery, but I have to find out... It's for sure something easy and I don't "see" it, but what.

 

[timachone]

Hi Tim, nice to read you too

Well, the booster is ok, it's a new one, and the rod is at the same length as the previous one, the pedal has the same angle as the one I replaced. The only thing I did, is to install this kit from Scott Drake with the bearings, my guess is that the angle changed because of this kit, I can't stop thinking from where it could be. Till now for me it's a mystery, but I have to find out... It's for sure something easy and I don't "see" it, but what.

I do not want to blame anybody I do not know personally but if that's the only thing you have changed and all other measurements are totally right I would say it's Scott Drake  :biggrin: