C6 conversion to Toploader 4 speed

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Hmm, I looked at the pictures again... 

Could it be that the cotter pin 

2UJP1_AS01


perhaps touches anything under the column so that the pedal do not retract fully towards the drivers seat? 

 
Non monsieur, that pin touch nothing, but thanks to dig with me :)

Next weekend I will remove the Scott Drake kit and try with the automatic brake pedal. The supports holes are oblong, it could be this, maybe...

 
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 Manu, let me chime in here as I try to understand what's going on. First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake. That being the case, that has nothing to do with the brake pedal staying in the wrong position. I'm trying to remember back a few years now, to when I added the booster to my non-power brake system. At that time, I also added a bearing kit to mine. I used Mustang Steve's kit, not Scott Drake. If it were the clutch pedal sticking, I would say it's binding due to the bearings not being 100% parallel because of the draft angle in the bracket itself. As it's the brake pedal that's sticking, that has nothing to do with it. On the bracket, there are two holes, one for the clutch shaft and one for the brake pedal bolt, did you get these switched around? I can't think how or why this would happen, but worth a thought. Did you just over tighten the brake pedal bolt causing the bracket to pinch against the pedal arm? Did the pedal arm swing freely before you attached the brake push rod? Did the push rod align with the pedal arm pin with the pedal arm in the correct position? If it all checks out, check your booster. It may be stuck in the down (in) position if the master cylinder is not yet on.

I'd just go back and check everything. Good luck.

 
"First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake"

You just gave me the answer  :thumb:  I inserted the clutch pedal through the brake one, so the brake pedal is not on its position, how could I do this mistake! It's why on one of my pics the brake pedal is lower than the clutch one.

But everything comes together very easely, it's why I didn't imagine make a wrong assembly.

I have to wait friday to setup all correctly :(

 
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"First the Scott Drake bearing kit is installed on the CLUTCH shaft, not the brake"

You just gave me the answer  :thumb:  I inserted the clutch pedal through the brake one, so the brake pedal is not on its position, how could I do this mistake! It's why on one of my pics the brake pedal is lower than the clutch one.

But everything comes together very easely, it's why I didn't imagine make a wrong assembly.

I have to wait friday to setup all correctly :(
No criticism here, glad that help you. Mine of course was  a manual to start with, so I was unlikely to make an error, but I can easily see how it could happen. On the brake, you likely won't get proper travel until the master cylinder is on and the system is complete with brake fluid. 

Let us know how it goes. All the best,

 
It's done!

All is in place, was not so easy, because the worth thing is to be a snake to connect all things in horizontal position with not much room under the dash board. But to me was the not easiest part to do, not the work, but all different parts needed to do the swap how it need to be done.

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IMG_20210522_190654.jpg

 
From drum to disk. 

One side is done, almost. The KYB gas is shorter than the ones I had, probably the original ones, wait until the car is on the ground.

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I found the KYB front shocks, #553314 way too short. I'm sure they would max out putting stress on the shocks and the shock tower.

I swapped them for the KYB #343156. they are longer and will allow the suspension to hang to the sub-frame without blocks and no stress on the top shock rubbers.

Both these are listed for the 71-73 mustangs. Was there a different spring height say with the sports suspension kit option?

 
The front suspension I try to install are KG 4504 and are shorter than the original ones. I need to change them for sure. If KYB#343156 are longer, that's what I need. 

 
Rockauto tells me that according to the manufacturer's specifications, KYB in this case, these suspensions fit on our 71/73. As a result, I get half my money back because what I received is what I ordered, and should fit on my car, so we share the blame. I would have preferred that they send me back material that can be mounted. Another order to place, another shipping cost, another customs cost.

 
The shocks were delivered today. 
You can see quite a difference in length between the two, if it helps others not to make the same mistake.

Or maybe the short ones could be installed with some shorter springs ? I don't know...

IMG_20211102_184301.jpg

 
Interesting, I have previously ordered kyb kg4504’s from my local mustang shop.   They recommended them for my stock spring setup.  I don’t expect to pick them up until my new front rotors arrive (at least for a few months, but likely in the Spring of next year.  I hope the fit!

cheers

 
Has anyone ever fitted the KG4504's? on a 71-73 model even though they are listed for these models. Has KYB just made an error in their fitment charts?

Maybe send this picture to them and ask.

 
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I have the Gas-A-Just installed on my car, and I think that a lot of other members have them too. It would be interesting to see the Gas-A-Just next to a stock OEM shock. I do know that with the GAJ when you raise the car the upper control arm will not contact the frame, but I think that is normal, as Ford had the upper control arm support tool so that the shock would not end up holding all the suspension when you raised the car. If Ford intended to have the shock be long enough so that the upper control arm could sit on the frame without putting any weight on the shocks, they would have never made that tool.

It could be that the Excel G are just longer than they need to be, no harm would come of that. From what I can tell the KYB GAJ have enough travel in them for the suspension to work in its intended range of motion. Now, I could be wrong... 

 
I have the Gas-A-Just installed on my car, and I think that a lot of other members have them too. It would be interesting to see the Gas-A-Just next to a stock OEM shock. I do know that with the GAJ when you raise the car the upper control arm will not contact the frame, but I think that is normal, as Ford had the upper control arm support tool so that the shock would not end up holding all the suspension when you raised the car. If Ford intended to have the shock be long enough so that the upper control arm could sit on the frame without putting any weight on the shocks, they would have never made that tool.

It could be that the Excel G are just longer than they need to be, no harm would come of that. From what I can tell the KYB GAJ have enough travel in them for the suspension to work in its intended range of motion. Now, I could be wrong... 
Interesting point. As I am probably going to swap out my GAJ's for Excel G (old GR2) in spring, I'll make sure the ones I get are correct. A problem I see could be that like a lot of stuff these days, it's a one-size-fits-all sort of deal. 

What I could do is measure the NOS front shocks for full extended length and get back here as an edit. Thinking about it, when I installed the GAJ's, I found I needed to add a thick washer under the cap so the nuts did not bottom out on the threads. 

 
Here is the answer from KYB

[SIZE=11pt]"Both 343156 and KG4504 are correct for the 73 Mustang.  You’re correct that KG4504 is a little shorter, but that is by design due to the higher damping rate that is meant to give a little more suspension performance.  You would just need to jack up the axle a little bit to install and should not have any issues after that".[/SIZE]

I guess it could be possible to install these KYB4504 while the wheels are on the floor, the weight of the front should be necessary to do that, but as I don't have the engine in the bay, I can't try that.

 
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