can you help me id a few things?

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greghen

Active member
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Sep 26, 2011
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Location
az
My Car
1973 Mustang Convertible
Okay new to working on cars.. I have a few pictures I was hoping you can help me id a few things under the hood of my 73 vert.

Where is my fuel filter?

o5rdvq.jpg


29b101k.jpg


Should I be able to see this (blue lines/)

2r63911.jpg


What is this? It is located right to the front of my oil filter?

6hi2v5.jpg


What is this blue item and do I need it? I don't think anything is hooked up to it.

vqqp2h.jpg


Thank you for all your help. I am trying to become familiar with what is what so I can do some basic repairs.

Feel free to tell me more about what you see in these pics (landmark items) than I have asked. Thank you!

 
Okay new to working on cars.. I have a few pictures I was hoping you can help me id a few things under the hood of my 73 vert.

Where is my fuel filter?

Should I be able to see this (blue lines/) Looks like gaskets and something I've never seen before, sorry!

2r63911.jpg


What is this? It is located right to the front of my oil filter? Mechanical Fuel Pump and looks like the fuel filter connected to it
6hi2v5.jpg


 


What is this blue item and do I need it?
Emissions Charcoal canister for fuel tank vapors. Hose from fuel tank should terminate to blue can and then I believe 3/4" accordian foil/paper type hose goes from blue can to air cleaner base. I don't think anything is hooked up to it.

vqqp2h.jpg


Thank you for all your help. I am trying to become familiar with what is what so I can do some basic repairs.

Feel free to tell me more about what you see in these pics (landmark items) than I have asked. Thank you!

I hope this helps!
 
Here's a picture of the paper hose on my car going from the canister to the air cleaner. My air cleaner is off an Australian Falcon - the correct factory air cleaner might have the hose connecting to somewhere else on the body.

dC3rp.jpg


 
Thanks for the feedback on the canister. The prior owner put on a new air filter, I am guessing that is why the output line goes no place. Is this going to cause any issues?

As for the gasket.. My guess is someone put on the wrong gasket if it is visible, should I replace it or is this just a cosmetic issue?

Thanks for your advice.

 
That is a major boo boo on the intake gasket.

Does this car run? I would be amazed if it does.

You are going to have to pull the intake and see if someone merely installed the gaskets incorrectly or if you have the wrong gaskets or wrong intake or both.

 
Thanks TommyK - it does run fairly well.. Needs to warm up for a few mins then it is solid. How complicated is removing the intake and install a new gasket? I'm a novice should I take this one on?

How can I determine if it is the wrong intake?

 
Thanks TommyK - it does run fairly well.. Needs to warm up for a few mins then it is solid. How complicated is removing the intake and install a new gasket? I'm a novice should I take this one on?

How can I determine if it is the wrong intake?
If it runs fairly well and you're happy with the performance, then leave it be for now. If you keep in contact or have a way to contact the original owner, then I'd try to find out if he did any major modifications to the engine. The intake should have a part number on it. Please post numbers and we can all try to figure out if it's the correct part for the engine. The job itself is not difficult to do, but like anything else on the car, you'll need to know the torquing sequence and properly torque the bolts down to spec. All this information can be found here or online, but I would suggest getting a repair manual if you don't already have one. Also, I would install a inline fuel pressure gauge to monitor the amount of psi in the fuel delivery. I like this setup here:

k04y0g.jpg




Thanks for the feedback on the canister. The prior owner put on a new air filter, I am guessing that is why the output line goes no place. Is this going to cause any issues?

As for the gasket.. My guess is someone put on the wrong gasket if it is visible, should I replace it or is this just a cosmetic issue?

Thanks for your advice.
Also, most aftermarket air cleaners comes with a provision for the emissions vapor fitting. I know Edelbrock air cleaners do and if yours don't then it's simple to cut a hole and install the fitting. All designed to recycle and burn off the harmful vapors from the fuel tank. I don't know the exact science behind all this, but I would imagine it could cause health issues breathing in these unburnt vapors.

As for the gasket, could be cosmetic and someone made their own and used their own kind of gasket.

 
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As Tommy infers, it would appear that you have the Intake Manifold gasket for a 4V motor. It also looks like you have an after market Intake (Aluminum) and I take it that your 351 is a 2V.

Can you confirm which heads and Intake Manifold you have on your '73? Armed with this information, we may be able to provide more definitive advice.

BT

 
Running the vin... 351 2V is what I have. Intake is Edelbrock Performer LB 351-2v based on the marking on the unit. Seems like a good fit?

 
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Running the vin... 351 2V is what I have. Intake is Edelbrock Performer LB 351-2v based on the marking on the unit. Seems like a good fit?
Yes, that should be a very good fit for a "street" motor as it was designed for the Cleveland 2V heads. Of course, this is if everything else is "right."

It would appear that you have the 4V intake gasket on it which would be the wrong one for your 2V heads. With that Intake, Edelbrock recommends their #7265 gasket...I do not believe that is what you have. If you are not having any issues (i.e. leaks or performance-related), I think I would leave it as it is.

Since you apparently have some contact with the previous owner, you might want to question him or her as to why the 4V Intake gasket was apparently used.

Hope this helps!

BT

 
Look at the top of the heads at the front of the engine. It should have a 2, 4, or M stamped on it. Which do you see? That will tell us what type of heads you have to be sure they match your intake.

Also, the line to the blue can going back to the gas tank must stay hooked up or you'll run into all kinds of issues.

 
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Running the vin... 351 2V is what I have. Intake is Edelbrock Performer LB 351-2v based on the marking on the unit. Seems like a good fit?
Very good fit, so could be just cosmetic since your car runs fairly well. I woudn't worry about it. Fuel filter appears to be in a good location, so also wouldn't worry about it. But if you ever feel the need to do the work, then I say even a cave man can do it...it's that simple :D

 
Thanks guys.. The current issue I am having performance wise is I have to allow the car to warm up for a while before I can put in into gear. If I don't it will stall out on me. Also if I gas it while it is cold (in drive) it will flutter (sometime stall) and then I hear a pop and it revs up. Could this be attributed this the gasket being the wrong one?

Was going to see if adjusting the choke on the Holley Street Advenger makes any improvements..

 
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I doubt the intake manifold gaskets shown has anything to do with your carburetor problems. Adjusting the choke may help, but sounds to me like jetting or air fuel mixture settings. I'm not familiar with Holley carbs, but I'm sure someone here will chime in and help you get it tuned right. Do you know what size carb you have? I feel a 600cfm carb would work great for your 351C 2V motor. Even with mild mods, a 600cfm would be a good size.

 
Thanks guys.. The current issue I am having performance wise is I have to allow the car to warm up for a while before I can put in into gear. If I don't it will stall out on me. Also if I gas it while it is cold (in drive) it will flutter (sometime stall) and then I hear a pop and it revs up. Could this be attributed this the gasket being the wrong one?

Was going to see if adjusting the choke on the Holley Street Advenger makes any improvements..
Yup, your choke needs some adjustment. Be prepared, you make have to take the carb off the intake to access the high idle adjustment screw. When you fire it up cold, RPM's should rise to 1600 - 1800 within a minute. Initial kickdown (1st step down) after you reach 1600 - 1800 should drop it to 1000 - 1100 RPM. After a couple minutes the choke should open and RPM's drop to 600 or so.

You can drive it while the choke is engaged at the 1st step-down, but you may experience hesitation if you give it too much throttle until fully warmed up.

 
Yes Im very suprized it runs with the gasket like that....When installing a cleveland manifold..You have to take great care...They are prone too leaking when not installed propper...You really need to get a vacume gage on it and see if its leaking real bad...Cause if it is..It will give you all sorts of issues...Make you think your carb is shot when its just loosing vac.....You wont be able to trouble shoot it till your sure its not loosing vacume.

 
Yes Im very suprized it runs with the gasket like that....When installing a cleveland manifold..You have to take great care...They are prone too leaking when not installed propper...You really need to get a vacume gage on it and see if its leaking real bad...Cause if it is..It will give you all sorts of issues...Make you think your carb is shot when its just loosing vac.....You wont be able to trouble shoot it till your sure its not loosing vacume.

Can you give me a high level how to test the vacuum? I can pick up a gauge I would like at a local auto store.. Can check it out..

 
Yes Im very suprized it runs with the gasket like that....When installing a cleveland manifold..You have to take great care...They are prone too leaking when not installed propper...You really need to get a vacume gage on it and see if its leaking real bad...Cause if it is..It will give you all sorts of issues...Make you think your carb is shot when its just loosing vac.....You wont be able to trouble shoot it till your sure its not loosing vacume.

Can you give me a high level how to test the vacuum? I can pick up a gauge I would like at a local auto store.. Can check it out..
http://www.centuryperformance.com/tuning-with-a-vacuum-gauge-spg-148.html this is a good page..Show what it should be about.


Plus vacuume gage cheap....And will give you a good idea what is going on in your engine..Not just leaks..Its a good tool everyone should use once and a while:)

 
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Yes Im very suprized it runs with the gasket like that....When installing a cleveland manifold..You have to take great care...They are prone too leaking when not installed propper...You really need to get a vacume gage on it and see if its leaking real bad...Cause if it is..It will give you all sorts of issues...Make you think your carb is shot when its just loosing vac.....You wont be able to trouble shoot it till your sure its not loosing vacume.

Can you give me a high level how to test the vacuum? I can pick up a gauge I would like at a local auto store.. Can check it out..
For a stock engine I would say between 18 and 22 Hg at idle would be normal. Maybe a little less for an engine with a lot of wear.

I have to respectfully disagree with some of the other posters. I would want to fix that gasket pronto before it leaves you on the side of the road. The cleveland intake is very easy to R&R being a "dry" manifold. It wold give you the opportunity to go through the carb as well.

 
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