Car won't turn off

[matrixx]

OK I decided to make two threads because this issue has nothing to do with fuel. Anyway I pulled my fuel tank and it was getting late so I was going to move the car back into its spot. Started right up as usual and backed it up, pulled forward ans went to shut it down and the ignition switch turned all the way back and I could pull the key out. Without putting it into reverse like normal. Also the engine continued to run. Not thinking I pulled the battery and then the fuel source but it was just idling forever so I shifted to reverse and let out the clutch to stall it. When I reconnect the battery the oil light stays on even without the key in the switch. There was also a buzzing sound coming from a box I think below the starter solenoid. Here:



Any thoughts or a procedure I should check. Obviously my reverse lockout is not working like it did. I didn't try starting it because it was getting late and running out of daylight. Maybe a bad switch?

 

[midlife]

Hit the starter solenoid with a good "love tap" and see if you can undo the sticky solenoid.

 

[73 MACH 1 MAN]

Really sounds like a grounding problem somewhere! Might want to check the battery cable engine connection and the ground strap between the engine and body. Bad grounds will cause all kind of weird symptoms!

 

[midlife]

Possibly a bad ground (doubtful), unless the chassis itself is not grounded. The starter solenoid's ground is the base plate via the screws to the fender apron. If the starter solenoid had a bad ground, it wouldn't even turn on for the starter!

 

[matrixx]

Its brand new solenoid. And I tapped the hell out of it. No luck. I will check my grounds tomorrow, as I found today a lit of smoking. Valve covers leaking bad. I hope I don't have to go into the column though.:s

 

[73 MACH 1 MAN]

Possibly a bad ground (doubtful), unless the chassis itself is not grounded. The starter solenoid's ground is the base plate via the screws to the fender apron. If the starter solenoid had a bad ground, it wouldn't even turn on for the starter!

Not actually true with a dirty ground or a loose ground the the car could still operate but can cause lots of unusual things to happen! Not saying its the problem buts its something to look at! Whenever I work on a car that just doesnt make sense electrically thats the 1st thing I check!

On my Linoln sometimes when I started it the gauges woldnt work, the stereo would go off and on or go dim. Then I could turn the car off then restart it and it would be fine. Then one night the car was in the garage and the alarm just went off by itself. I had to disconnect the battery to shut it off. Then later that night it did it again! Turned out the engine to body ground was badly frayed. Replaced it and the Ghost playing in my car went away! :?)

 

[midlife]

Oh I absolutely agree that bad grounds can cause all sorts of problems, but at the starter solenoid, it's pretty much limited to the solenoid itself, the mounting bolts, and the basic battery ground to the engine and chassis. If the car cranks over, the grounds work at the solenoid, motor, and chassis.

 

[matrixx]

One thing i wanted to ask though. Would a ground cause the reverse lockout to not work either. I have always had to put the transmission in reverse to turn the ignition switch back enough to free the key lock. Just wondering.

 

[Tnfastbk]

One thing i wanted to ask though. Would a ground cause the reverse lockout to not work either. I have always had to put the transmission in reverse to turn the ignition switch back enough to free the key lock. Just wondering.

No its not adjusted correctly

 

[OMS]

You mentioned clutch, on manual cars.

The lock out rod makes you put the car in reverse to remove the key

It sounds like you have a problem in the column.

Either with key lock or ignition switch

Since it is involving the lock out - I would start with the key lock

You can remove the 2 plastic steering column trims and get to the key rod - pop the rod out of the switch and you can move the switch thru all postions, off, run, start , acc

If it all works OK key lock would be the likey problem

 

[matrixx]

I can turn the key lock through all positions with the key in it. I did not try to start to see if the key lock would signal the ignition and starter. seems like the ignition is staying on regardless of key position. I need to give you a call, I am at work and I don't shut down until 6pm eastern time, would you be available then?

P.s. Yes it is a manual transmission

 

[Tnfastbk]

P.s. Yes it is a manual transmission

Then + 1 on Dons Post thought you had an auto

 

[matrixx]

Awesome, I never had good luck getting into steering columns. (no gone in 60 secs here) I will try and pull it apart and see whats happening. Dons post makes sense. Didn't feel like anything broke but you know how thats goes. Maybe the key lock broke away from the ignition switch, thereby leaving the ignition on.

 

[Joe]

I have had this problem a few times before. In every case, it's been the starter solenoid. If you get an internal short between the battery post and the "I" terminal, you can't shut the car off. This circuit is normally closed only during starting to bypass the resister wire and provide a full 12v to the coil for easier starting. Most solenoids manufactured today are junk, and I have had them fail in every conceivable way. The worst one lasted for two starts.

 

[matrixx]

I have had this problem a few times before. In every case, it's been the starter solenoid. If you get an internal short between the battery post and the "I" terminal, you can't shut the car off. This circuit is normally closed only during starting to bypass the resister wire and provide a full 12v to the coil for easier starting. Most solenoids manufactured today are junk, and I have had them fail in every conceivable way. The worst one lasted for two starts.

Interesting, could explain the buzzing coming from it. Even though I tapped it, did your issues have the key lock situation though?

Solved *** Thanks Joe, I got home plugged up battery and the ignition was still on. Tapped the solenoid with the end of a screwdriver this time and lo behold its back to normal. So either I have a bad ground in that location or the solenoid is junk. Good thing I have a commercial account with advance auto. They usually bend the rules with replacement parts since they know they don't want to loose a nice account.

Can't believe I didn't think of it, I guess my mind was just so confused at the time.

Thanks to everyone who replied, you guys are great.