Cast Iron Head Repair?

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detritusmaximus

Well-known member
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Sep 21, 2013
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Location
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My Car
1973 Grande #1 looong time ago
1970 Sportsroof #2 almost as long
1971 Sportsroof M-code #3 needs money
2008 GT #4 where the money went
So I've got this 4v CC head with a crack at one of the exhaust valve seats.
The shop that found it said they have a shop they send stuff out to for repairs. It would have to go there to see if it's likely candidate.

I figured I'd post pics to see if anyone here has thoughts on if this is a reasonable course of action. I know, in general, almost anything is possible, but that is a different thing from how well it works.

20240225_131310.jpg20240225_131502.jpg
 
Also, on the other end of the head, there is a hole going from the intake runner to the threaded hole for the rocker stud.
Seems like that would be sealed by the rocker stud.

20240225_131528.jpg20240225_131550.jpg
 
It's absolutely possible to salvage the head. But you may want to compare the repair vs using a different head. Of course if it's one that's scarce you may just have to repair what you've got. The key thing is that the repair is performed by an experienced, competent shop. If the weldment isn't prepped properly, welded with the correct filler metal, and post treated to slow the cooling rate, it can screw things up worse than they were in the first place.
As far as the hole in the port, you are correct the stud will seal it off (using some sealant on the threads). This is somewhat common occurrence in racing applications. BUT if this head is going to see extended running service (like on street) you may want to check how thick the metal is around the hole on the port side. If it's thin it will give you problems down the road. Again, ask around and if possible visit the shop. Here is a link that explains in detail what cast iron welding on cylinders heads successfully entails.
Good luck!
https://www.rlengines.com/Web_Pages/headwelding.html
 
Initially I was going to get a different head. But, everyone wants a bunch of money and generally, for some reason, won't get their heads magna-fluxed so they can guarantee no cracks. Can't imagine why they don't want to do that...
So, I have two D1AE GA heads. Date codes 0J4 and 0J21. Not original to the car, but it was a November 70 build, so that works.
 
If casting numbers and date codes aren't a major factor then its just cost right?

Is the repair going to cost more than buying another head?
 
If casting numbers and date codes aren't a major factor then its just cost right?

Is the repair going to cost more than buying another head?
While I'm not fixated on the casting dates, it is convenient that they are within reason for my car. I do still have the original numbers matching block, so...

No idea on price. Might not know until I send it off. But my option is buy another head for $250-400 and maybe it's cracked, maybe not. Anyone willing to guarantee a good head usually has a pair and want over a $1k...for the pair. Before rebuilding. At that point, aluminum heads start to be attractive. Scope and budget creep.
 
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