Chassis and Suspension upgrades

[86caprirs]

So I am adding up costs of doing a SLA front kit and rear 4 link kit with the addition of subframe connector and brake systems to my 73. I am also looking at the Roadster shop and Schwartz complete frame systems for the same year. I have gone through a few build projects pages and have not found anyone using the Shawartz or Roadster shop full frame kits. Sure I have seen them use in a couple magazine articles but it never says what they think of the install or fit and finish of the product.

Has anyone used a full frame kit for their Mustang in a build?

 

[86caprirs]

Nobody has installed a full frame on their cars?

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

It is very expensive compared to upgrading what is there. Not to say it isn't of value, but if you are going to use a 15-20K full frame and suspension kit, you would be more likely to do it on a more popular car than a 71-73 Mustang

 

[4mm]

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

 

[Qcode351mach]

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

:goodpost:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::

Great advice and can be done for a 1/6 the cost of a full frame.

Both my cars have most of the above minus the I.R. and 6 point cage.

Street or track front coilover kit -subframe connectors-properly sized sway bars-and of course the Bilsteins.

 

[EdM]

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

:goodpost:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::

Great advice and can be done for a 1/6 the cost of a full frame.

Both my cars have most of the above minus the I.R. and 6 point cage.

Street or track front coilover kit -subframe connectors-properly sized sway bars-and of course the Bilsteins.

Per Q above, I am in the throes of installing a Street or Track coil over kit (bought from him and saved some $$$), Bilstein rear shocks, 4 1/2 leaf mid-eye leafs, new Moog steering stuff and a Power Steering Services fast ratio (12.7:1) conversion on my steering box. I cannot wait to feel the difference given it is and "all at once" install and replacing an original well worn system. I also welded in Global West's sub-frame connectors. Less than $3k for it all.

 

[86caprirs]

I know the Roadster Shop frame you have to cut out the floor and drop the body on. The Schwartz frame is a bolt in frame but is still very pricy. I was thinking a way to use the crown vic front end in the Mustang but no luck. next is companies like Rod and Custom but I want to use Ford parts that use SN95 hubs and brakes.

 

[Mister 4x4]

It's a novel idea, but I think the only way I'd consider a full frame is if I had a 'vert where the consistency of the frame rails, chassis stiffeners, and unibody itself were in question.

Otherwise, I'd just install a subframe connector system, and choose the suspension systems from there. Like Q said - WAY more economical... money that could be used better in more visible areas, as needed.

If you're going the Pro-Touring direction, and want to have wider than 305-315 tires, you'll need to 'mini-tub' the rears anyway, regardless of whether the full frame or existing frame rail sub-assembly is used.

 

[86caprirs]

yeah. I Just need to find the best front and rear suspension system for my Mustang. And yes I will mini tub the rear.

 

[TommyK]

It's been a while since I've seen one. When the full frames first came out you had to cut out the floor panel and lay the shell on it and custom cut the sheet metal for it to fit properly and lower the car for that killer stance the PT crowd aims for.

I was heavily into the pro-touring crowd and if you start with a full frame the rest of the car parts should be of the same quality which means your build can easily end up over $60k in parts and labor.

Having said that, I would go with an independent rear suspension and a coil-over front. Stiffen up the chassis underneath and custom fab a 6 point roll cage that conceals well. The engine compartment firewall should tie onto the shock towers then onto the front subframe by the upper arms.

Two piece light weight rotors, properly sized ft/rr sway bars and Bilstein shocks go a long way in improving the driving dynamics of the car.

Just my 2 cents..

:goodpost:::thumb::::thumb::::thumb::

Great advice and can be done for a 1/6 the cost of a full frame.

Both my cars have most of the above minus the I.R. and 6 point cage.

Street or track front coilover kit -subframe connectors-properly sized sway bars-and of course the Bilsteins.

Per Q above, I am in the throes of installing a Street or Track coil over kit (bought from him and saved some $$$), Bilstein rear shocks, 4 1/2 leaf mid-eye leafs, new Moog steering stuff and a Power Steering Services fast ratio (12.7:1) conversion on my steering box. I cannot wait to feel the difference given it is and "all at once" install and replacing an original well worn system. I also welded in Global West's sub-frame connectors. Less than $3k for it all.

If you have the bank, the Schwartz chassis is the bomb.

However most guys including me can't even push the driving limits of EdM's SOT setup and other mods for 1/6 the cost.