Classic Auto Air

[tony-muscle]

I have the CAA kit and really like it. However, I had to deal with their 80s style ugly-ass controller too. I can't find the file i used, but I ended up designing a laminated decal that looks like something a little more period-correct. The shade of black is off, but so far, it's a better look.  

View attachment 51350

Wow!! this is awesome. What a neat idea! How did you do this? Did you send it somewhere for printing?

 

[71coop]

No, I'm cheap. I don't know how well it'll hold up, but I actually did it in Word, printed it on our home inkjet, then used my wife's home laminating machine to seal it up. She had laminate "blanks" with an adhesive backing. Came out pretty decent.

 

[rackerm]

Interesting. We both had similar ideas. I adapted the Sanden compressor using an adapter plate from Ebay and then frankestained it to the stock pulley bracket. The same with the Saginaw pump. In my case I used two bolts of the stock bracket and added a third fix point at the rear by bending a flat bar between the stock bracket and the pump.

Sorry not to hijack the thread, but I have a question about your Saginaw pump. Are you using ATF of steering fluid? Mine wines at below 1,200 rpms and it is very hard so when steering in a parking lot I have to keep revving it.

This is my Sanden adapter before the CAA air. The difference now is that the refrigerant hoses run on the driver's side instead of around the front and passenger side:

My Saginaw pump frankestaining:

View attachment 51355

Tony,

I have a different Saginaw pump than your "Canned Ham" version. Mine is a Saginaw P series #19-6969BB-P.  Not sure if that makes a difference or not.  I have read many conflicting experiences with using Dexron ATF  fluid. They say it has a lot of detergents in it and it breaks down faster. I use a Mercon V full synthetic transmission fluid, but others I know use other brands and even ACDelco Power Steering Fluid. 

Did you bleed the system when you installed it? I have read that using the right fluid AND bleeding the system properly eliminates noise. Also using a synthetic reduces foaming. I saved these instructions...maybe this will help...

When to Bleed

• After any steering component replacement.
• If any part of the power steering system is opened for any reason. Why Bleed
• To prevent pump damage.
• To ensure proper system operation.
• To stop steering system noise.

How to Bleed 
Step 1 Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can cause metal to metal contact and damage. 
Step 2 Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod. 
Step 3 Turn steering wheel fully to the left. 
Step 4 Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off. 
Step 5 With an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped, no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system. — Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir. Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for leak checks. — On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess of 40 times. 
Step 6 Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist. — If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above. — Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly). 
Step 7 Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems) — Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable. — If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to accumulate and purge through the reservoir. 
Step 8 Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible. 
Step 9 If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to Step 11.

Hydro Boost Systems Only — Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by performing three full presses on the brake pedal. — Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping. — Once foam clears, crank engine until it just catches and shut off. — Discharge Hydro Boost unit with three full presses of the brake pedal. — Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir. — If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled. IMPORTANT Use only clear, name brand, premium, racing synthetic power steering fluid, such as Royal Purple or Red Line. Do not use transmission fluid, as transmission fluid does not contain the same friction inhibitors/additives and tends to breakdown and overheat. Use of transmission fluid will void the warranty. WARNING These Hydro Boost specific instructions must be followed. Failure to follow these procedures can cause your new high volume pump to become damaged or fail completely. Do not turn the steering wheel while performing these procedures.  — Repeat above steps. 
Step 10 Enable engine to start. With engine idling, maintain fluid level. 

Step 11 Reinstall reservoir cap. 
Step 12 Return wheels to center. 
Step 13 Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in Step 2. 
Step 14 Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions. 
Step 15 Do not hold steering wheel against the stops. 
Step 16 Verify the following conditions: — Smooth power assist — Noiseless operation — Proper fluid level — No system leaks — Proper fluid condition — No bubbles, foam, or discoloration 
Step 17 If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete. 
Step 18 If any problem exists, turn off engine and see Special Conditions below.

Special Conditions If you experience any of the conditions listed below, there is still air in the system. 
• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles). 
• Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off. If this occurs, there is trapped air in the system. 
• Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose. 
• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color)

Eliminating Air in the Power Steering System

Follow the steps below to eliminate air in the power steering system.
Step 1 Turn ignition off. Wait thirty minutes. Recheck hose connections. Repeat start up procedures.
If problem still exists, replace or check for possible causes including:
— Return hose clamps
— Return hose o-ring or flare seat
— Pressure hose o-ring or flare seat
— All other connections
Step 2 Fill system and repeat bleeding procedure for each possible cause.

Eliminating Noise in the Power Steering System
If you hear a whining or groaning noise originating from the pump after all air is out of
the system (if air is not out, see Special Conditions), then do the following:
Step 1 Check belts for slippage.
Step 2 Mark pulley and make sure it is not slipping on the shaft.
Step 3 With the engine running, recheck hoses for possible contact with frame, body, or engine. If
no contact is found, cool fluid and depressurize system.
Step 4 After cooling fluid, start engine to come up to operating temperature and recheck
 

That A/C Sanden bracket you bought on eBay looks identical to mine from Summit.

 

[CobraJet351]

I have the CAA kit and really like it. However, I had to deal with their 80s style ugly-ass controller too. I can't find the file i used, but I ended up designing a laminated decal that looks like something a little more period-correct. The shade of black is off, but so far, it's a better look.  

View attachment 51350

That's much better. I was thinking to do this but was hoping there was another way.

Any tip for removing the knobs before I break something? 

 

[giantpune]

On the classicautoair website, their kit has a dropdown to allow you to select a full kit with a compressor and the brackets to install on a 351C with power steering.  Does anybody happen to have the instructions or pictures from an installation using that setup?  I have a family member wondering about installing one of these kits.  Just trying to figure out what we're in for.  They make it sound like you can just buy the kit and it'll have everything you need to bolt everything right up.

And is there anything special to do when charging the system?  I know how to pull a vacuum on a current AC system and then fill it with the manifold and weighing the R134a.  Wondering if its the same procedure for the classicautoair kits.

 

[71coop]

CobraJet351 - As I recall, they just pulled off with a little effort. I did not plan on reusing them, because I picked up a set of replacement chrome knobs from CJ Pony or anther parts house.

 

[rackerm]

Any tip for removing the knobs before I break something? 

The knobs just pull off. I used a flat forked tool and slipped it over the lever and behind the knob and pulled until it popped off.

 

[rackerm]

No, I'm cheap. I don't know how well it'll hold up, but I actually did it in Word, printed it on our home inkjet, then used my wife's home laminating machine to seal it up. She had laminate "blanks" with an adhesive backing. Came out pretty decent.

When using your home inkjet printer, I know the ink will run/bleed if it gets wet. I had moisture get to the paper even after laminating it and ruin the ink. I suggest "fixing" the ink after printing by spraying the paper with a Krylon clear to prevent the ink from bleeding should it get wet and then laminate it. You can buy a spray that is made for fixing the I k, but I found any spray clear works just as well.

 

[CobraJet351]

I'm working on a solution to the ugly switch control issue. I will post updates as they come. 

 

[JJU9507]

Vintage air has ez sliders.

 

[JJU9507]

Vintage Air 112002-SUA - Vintage Air Replacement Slide Pot Assemblies


     ( 8 )

 

Part Number: VTA-112002-SUA