closing off sides of shroud

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Joined
Jul 3, 2016
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Location
delaware
My Car
1973 convertible with 351C and C6 trans
looking for ideas to close off the sides of the fan shroud to the rad. an opening about 1" down ea side from rad to shroud. and something like 16" long down the sides.

i've got a 3 core alum and the cores are tight. running down the road is no problem but if i get nailed in traffic the temp goes up.

 
looking for ideas to close off the sides of the fan shroud to the rad. an opening about 1" down ea side from rad to shroud. and something like 16" long down the sides.

i've got a 3 core alum and the cores are tight. running down the road is no problem but if i get nailed in traffic the temp goes up.
Bill,

There are two different width size radiators. The Standard non-A/C version is a smaller width and uses a smaller shroud. The wider A/C version used a wider shroud. Is it possible you have the wider A/C radiator with a non-A/C shroud? This creates radiator areas on either side of the shroud where air can pass thru when moving but not when at a standstill.

Below is a picture of one of my cars with a larger/wider 3-row A/C radiator and the smaller width non-A/C shroud. They will bolt up together but the shroud does not fully enclose the radiator. This is a small block 302ci, and fortunately, I do not have an overheating problem.



An A/C shroud below



A non-A/C Shroud below



 
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rich, yes i have an a/c rad and shroud. if u look at your engine pic.. on the rad cap side just above the rad holder bracket u can just see the opening i'm talking about.

 
rich, yes i have an a/c rad and shroud. if u look at your engine pic.. on the rad cap side just above the rad holder bracket u can just see the opening i'm talking about.
Bill,

According to Secluff from a previous post, "there was a deflector is sourced from the 70-71 Torino, so DOOZ-8349-A is the Torino part number the aftermarket often identifies this part by. The 65-72 Ford MPC indicates fitment for all 71-72 Mustangs with the 26" wide radiator. The 73-79 catalog only shows fitment for the 73 "H" 351 2bl with A/T. Who knows what the reasoning was for that change!!"

The original post.... https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-radiator-air-deflector?highlight=radiator






Not sure it will solve your problem, but it might help a bit. Originals are hard to find.

West coast cougar has them https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/d0oz-8349-a.html and there is someone selling new repros on eBay.... https://www.ebay.com/i/222899733665?chn=ps



remove outlook account

 




 
You do not say what engine you have. If a 351 C you for sure need to have the correct thermostat to prevent overheating issues. I recently found a stash of the correct Stant one and sold the extras to forum members. The picture is of what you need for a 351- C. The HAT shaped part on the end of thermostat goes into the washer baffle in the block and changes the water flow when the engine is at operating temp. You should use the 192 deg. to get the best cooling.

With any engine you need a thermostat so that the water stays in the radiator long enough to get cooled down. With no thermostat the water circulates too fast and does not have time to cool. You might start out running cooler but like you say in traffic you will overheat.

The parts house will sell you a thermostat for the 351 that is not properly designed. The correct ones come up on Ebay but are expensive. There are kits to alter the system also but I have not tried them. The Stant # is S 333 192. You have to have the hat shaped end on the thermostat or it does not function correctly and does cause overheating issues.

We would even cut some of the impellers off the water pump on race engines to not only reduce the flow but get a little more HP. If you have a good radiator something else is causing your heating issues not just the gap in the shroud.

Rackerman is right about the top baffle not being on all cars. My original 73 mach 1 351 Q code 4 speed did not come with one. It has air and never had an overheating issue.

Your timing is also a big contributor to overheating.

When I install a new thermostat I drill a very small hole, 1/32" dia. in the flange to allow the air from the block to escape. This just keeps the system from burping when the thermostat does open up and insures there is not an airlock under the thermostat keeping it closed. The hole is small enough that it does not change cooling.

On the 302 engine you can put the head gaskets on backwards and cause issues also. You usually have water blow out after you have stopped and cut off the engine. You can verify if the gasket is right by pulling the core plug out of the front of the head and feel if the gasket is on correct.

I think the 351 can go on backwards also but no core plug to pull and check if correct.

Forgot to mention that if you have an automatic and are stopped in traffic put in neutral this reduces the amount of heat the transmission builds due to clutches slipping. You should put a cooler on the automatic to take the burden off your radiator also.

David







 
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rich, great idea.. now that part wouldn't work for the sides.... but reading the ad it says "rubber"... BINGO.. i'm gonna look for rubber sheet maybe 3/16 and pop rivet to inside of shroud to seal against the rad... THANK U for the idea.. something like that won't interfere with fan for it's just inside the shroud.

 
You can turn on the blower to circulate air thru the heater core to help reduce the coolant temp. You may overheat instead, but that may be better than the car overheating :)

 
LOL, I visited Death Valley several times and you had to run heater and not air there. It was 100 deg. at midnight one trip there. The pool at the Death Valley Ranch was too hot to get in, lol. You could fry egg on the pavement.

David
I believe it. I stayed in Palm Springs and it was 117 then. flash flood signs along the highway.

 
forgot to mention... it's a 302 bored 30 over. and a few times i have run the heater. engine is kinda fresh rebuild with 1000 mi on it now. this only happens with i get nailed in a good traffic jam. like last yr may in ocean city md. dropped off keys to condo and hit 4 blocks of traffic that took 45 minutes to get through. once i hit the hwy it dropped in temp.

i'm running a 180° stat and yes i always drill the hole too.

 
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ok so went to home depot other day looking everywhere for a solution to close off sides of shroud. what i found was a box of rubber floor mats about 3/16 thick. measured and cut to fit, used small nut/bolts to fix to shroud. i felt the air flow before and after and it does feel better now. no meter so don't really know results. time will tell. it's not obvious what i did by glance look..

 
forgot the name, but got it at pep boys.. a performance fan.. so it says. flex alum blades

i can feel a good draft in front of rad, but behind on engine side it's like a tornado.. a lot of air.

 
If the shroud mods don't solve your problem, I'd recommend a clutched fan. I switched to them about 2000 and have never looked back. Clutch is Hayden 2710, which is a thermostatic clutch. Stock fan was 18 1/2", so you can run an 18" from Hayden (3618) or Derale (17118)

https://www.amazon.com/Hayden-Automotive-2710-Premium-Clutch/dp/B000C3F35C

https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B000C3F3G6/ref=dp_olp_all_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=all

https://www.amazon.com/Derale-17118-Clutch-Standard-Rotation/dp/B004XONYK2

and the studs for the water pump

https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-Help-23737-Water-Pump/dp/B00062YSBE

 
took car to show yesterday. about 35 mile drive all was well. and i did hit some stop/go traffic and watched the gage. it did go up about 2 needles, way less then i was expecting.

time will tell, the heat of summer is coming. i'm all signed up for the wildwood n.j. show in sept on the boardwalk and i know there's gonna be traffic so i sure hope this works. one of these days i'll install the aftermkt temp gage i got last yr and see what it really is.

one thing i noticed yesterday was when i was in slow traffic my 1st and 2nd gear was fluttering between them and didn't know which one it wanted to be in.. never did that before. i going to add a trans cooler now.

 

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