Clutch slipping

[Higgins56]

Hi,

it seems that my 71 Mach 1 hydraulic clutch assembly is too tight fit= clutch slipping. The bearing is tailor made and has no shims for adjustment.

My mechanic tried to move the hydralulic bearing ( work cylinder) from the bellhousing opening for the mechanical clutch , but could not make it turn. He installed shims ( 3 mm) between the bell housing and the gearbox and now there is sufficient play between the work cylinder and the clutch fingers to hopefully prevent slipping.

Is there any other recommended way to better the situation and is there any danger to damage / the functionality of the drive train to move the gearbox backwards - even this little amount .

The drive shaft is a ten spline 1.375" and the engine is 429 with 4sp Toploder with 9" differential with detroit locker

 

[caspianwendell]

Hi,

it seems that my 71 Mach 1 hydraulic clutch assembly is too tight fit= clutch slipping. The bearing is tailor made and has no shims for adjustment.

My mechanic tried to move the hydralulic bearing ( work cylinder) from the bellhousing opening for the mechanical clutch , but could not make it turn. He installed shims ( 3 mm) between the bell housing and the gearbox and now there is sufficient play between the work cylinder and the clutch fingers to hopefully prevent slipping.

Is there any other recommended way to better the situation and is there any danger to damage / the functionality of the drive train to move the gearbox backwards - even this little amount .

The drive shaft is a ten spline 1.375" and the engine is 429 with 4sp Toploder with 9" differential with detroit locker

Hydraulic?

 

[tempestairbrush]

The shimes are really hard to see and are directly behind the throwout bearing to be able to get to them after the trans has been pulled off the engine (this is why these are such a pain in the ass to get right, the process of trial and error sucks when you have to pull a transmmission), as they are on the input shaft of the transmission. I guess if the hydrolic throwout bearing isn't made for that engine transmission combination it could just be too thick of a bearing. If it is made for it and you are positive you have no shims behind the throwout bearing i would call up the manufacture and see what they say about the setup.

If your ok with the washers on the transmission, i honestly in my own opinion don't see any negative affect on keeping it the way your mechanic set it up. Sometimes with custom or aftermarket non factory parts you need to make small modifications like you did.

Hi,

it seems that my 71 Mach 1 hydraulic clutch assembly is too tight fit= clutch slipping. The bearing is tailor made and has no shims for adjustment.

My mechanic tried to move the hydralulic bearing ( work cylinder) from the bellhousing opening for the mechanical clutch , but could not make it turn. He installed shims ( 3 mm) between the bell housing and the gearbox and now there is sufficient play between the work cylinder and the clutch fingers to hopefully prevent slipping.

Is there any other recommended way to better the situation and is there any danger to damage / the functionality of the drive train to move the gearbox backwards - even this little amount .

The drive shaft is a ten spline 1.375" and the engine is 429 with 4sp Toploder with 9" differential with detroit locker

 

[Thomas]

Do you have a safety (steel) bell housing, or cast iron?

If you have a cast iron then there are different depths depending on the casting number and year of manufacture. With newer bell housing there could be problems when the gearbox gets too close to the clutch.

 

[Higgins56]

Hi,

it seems that my 71 Mach 1 hydraulic clutch assembly is too tight fit= clutch slipping. The bearing is tailor made and has no shims for adjustment.

My mechanic tried to move the hydralulic bearing ( work cylinder) from the bellhousing opening for the mechanical clutch , but could not make it turn. He installed shims ( 3 mm) between the bell housing and the gearbox and now there is sufficient play between the work cylinder and the clutch fingers to hopefully prevent slipping.

Is there any other recommended way to better the situation and is there any danger to damage / the functionality of the drive train to move the gearbox backwards - even this little amount .

The drive shaft is a ten spline 1.375" and the engine is 429 with 4sp Toploder with 9" differential with detroit locker

Hydraulic?

YES.

Do you have a safety (steel) bell housing, or cast iron?

If you have a cast iron then there are different depths depending on the casting number and year of manufacture. With newer bell housing there could be problems when the gearbox gets too close to the clutch.

The bell housing seems to be from year 1977 according to the stamped codes:

F06

D7TA7505AB

M2 ( oval FORD logo) D N

Cast iron or steel.... well... it seems to be that thick that I would say cast iron...rather than pressed steel....

In my case the gearbox would not be taken closer but further from the clutch ( towards the rear of the car)

Meanwhile I learned that there are even thick gasket like metal ? sheets ( some millimeters thick) used to put between the bell housing and the gearbox - any info on that ?

 

[Higgins56]

Hi,

it seems that my 71 Mach 1 hydraulic clutch assembly is too tight fit= clutch slipping. The bearing is tailor made and has no shims for adjustment.

My mechanic tried to move the hydralulic bearing ( work cylinder) from the bellhousing opening for the mechanical clutch , but could not make it turn. He installed shims ( 3 mm) between the bell housing and the gearbox and now there is sufficient play between the work cylinder and the clutch fingers to hopefully prevent slipping.

Is there any other recommended way to better the situation and is there any danger to damage / the functionality of the drive train to move the gearbox backwards - even this little amount .

The drive shaft is a ten spline 1.375" and the engine is 429 with 4sp Toploder with 9" differential with detroit locker

Hydraulic?

YES.

Do you have a safety (steel) bell housing, or cast iron?

If you have a cast iron then there are different depths depending on the casting number and year of manufacture. With newer bell housing there could be problems when the gearbox gets too close to the clutch.

The bell housing seems to be from year 1977 according to the stamped codes:

F06

D7TA7505AB

M2 ( oval FORD logo) D N

Cast iron or steel.... well... it seems to be that thick that I would say cast iron...rather than pressed steel....

In my case the gearbox would not be taken closer but further from the clutch ( towards the rear of the car)

Meanwhile I learned that there are even thick gasket like metal ? sheets ( some millimeters thick) used to put between the bell housing and the gearbox - any info on that ?

Nobody will believe this !

There was this slipping issue with the hydraulic clutch. My mechanic put 3 mm shims and there were no slippage but the gears were impossible to use so the shims were making thinner - 2 mm.

Now the slippage was more or less gone but the gears still protested when changing.

Tought I have to bleed the clutch and did it - two hours and half a litre brake fluid but no improvement. I did it alone...

Then I asked my son to join me and press the pedal and to my surprise I saw ( laying under the car - that the master cylinder did not move at all.

The reason was that the steel rod between the pedal and the master cylinder was broken like cut into two pieces.

I noticed that the rod had been broken earlier and poorly repaired so I think it had bent all the time and finally broke causing these slippimg and gear engaging problems.

I let the rod be welded and noticed immediately that there was a feel in the pedal. .. a couple of strokes to check that all air was out and that was it.

The gears are back and beautifully !!!!!

This only proves that everything is possible !