Converting from regular to fold down rear seats

[marks73]

I guess maybe being a 1 armed bandit right now has made me look at the easiest way to do things lately. After talking with Don at OMS and the guy I got this car from, they both descibed what a PITA it is to convert from a conventional rear seat to a fold down. WELDING, WELDING and more WELDING! The conventional is the blue car and the fold down is the red.

I believe I have a way to minimize that and move the entire piece (top and both sides and the bottom in 1 move)

So, I told Don I'd post how I'm doing it. Needless to say the back seats and trim have aleady been removed. START.



On the fold down car after removing the door, on the side braces, there are 2, 1/4 inch head screws at the bottom and 1 at about 3/4 up that have to be removed. (there is another at the top but that comes later) the brackets will swing loose except for the screw at the top. Both cars embelished plates can be removed fairly easily. The regular backseat plate has 5 pop rivets which must be drilled and then can be removed by placing a screwdiver or small wedge to hold it up out of the groove it sits in. And then using the holes on the left and right at the top to carefully push it toward the front of the car



The fold down seat the panel is held in with screws but removes in the same manner. You will however need to drill holes in the regular back seat car for the screws but the tabs for them are already there.



I'll take this back up tomorrow when I start the fold down frame removal.

 

[Tnfastbk]

:udaman:

 

[Don65Stang]

Great idea to post the how to for this project. I'm looking forward to the details.

 

[RacerX]

Subscribing!

 

[TheJ]

Very cool, I too have wondered about this.

 

[marks73]

Started early this morning to remove the rear wall of the fold down in order to make it easier to not damage it. I first removed the rear gas tank strap holder and trunck floor pan.



Then I marked where it would be safe to cut without hitting the metal I'm trying to save. I started cutting from the bottom and worked my way up to have support for the weight.



This is the part I know will be the PITA getting out of the good car without damaging anything. That's why I want to remove it in layers starting from the rear of the wall working toward the inside.

Having the whole wall on the stand makes things very easy to remove the metal without having to drill the spotwelds out. I just peel and cut.



Have the bottom and both sides completed and will start on the top in the morning.

 

[hyena429]

Thats alot of tacking and work...are ya going threw so much acid tone they think your making meth? hehe

 

[marks73]

Guess today may not have been the right day to put that exhaust fan in the peak vent!

 

[marks73]

Started peeling the layers from the back top this morning. Took my time and really had no great discoveries but didn't want to screw this piece up.

As it turned out it was as I thought, the sides are not connected at the top underneath. Took 30 minutes to do the otherside.



I then went into the other car knowing it wouldn't take long. Minimal peeling because I only need to be nice to the top crossmember. The sides I just cut with my mataba and ground because they'll be hidden with deadener and trim so why mess with the welds. Took 2 hours and sweat from the heat.

Tomorrow I need to clean,sand, and prime the sides and rest of the roof before the install. Did get the new rear wall sanded and primed on one side before calling it a day.

I figure from start to finish on the removal of both (after interior removed) 10 hours and no holes.

 

[pegasus]

O'my thats a lot of work, well done, looking good so far...

 

[Wolverine]

I guess if you really want fold down seats, you really want fold down seats.

 

[Jim and Jutta]

I was thinking about putting fold down seats in my car as a project...that thought is now gone.

Jim

 

[marks73]

Started the morning by cutting 2- 1/16" grooves in the front and rear of the bottom frame to allow for re-entry into the car. Went in through the back window and folded it slightly on the cuts. Went strait in! I used 1 inch clamps and a 2 X 1-1/2 backing plate to weld them back up and checked the level.



I then cleaned and sanded the sides before I started welding it all down.



Here it is finished in primer. Out and in, in 1 piece!

 

[Don65Stang]

Awesome work Mark!

 

[mach71351c]

Nice job Mark. I have the parts and pieces but not sure I want the rattles and weight. Thanks for posting.

 

[marks73]

Nice job Mark. I have the parts and pieces but not sure I want the rattles and weight. Thanks for posting.

Gotta plan on that rattle thing when the time comes! :idea:

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I'd consider fitting the door now so you can tweak positioning if necessary to get a nice tight fit . . .

 

[marks73]

Reached that point to start the installation of the final product. In order to find the proper placement for the top hole of the verticle side rails to the fold down door, I pretty much needed to assemble the entire seat. (Whished I hadn't missed writing down that measurement).



Those 2 bolts needed to be in place before installing the top crossmember. I did realize that I can tighten up the entire back seat and trim by putting it in place and then marking and installing the brackets behind the interior plastic. Tomorrow I'll mark the placement of the latch and weld it to the inner fender well.

 

[73vertproject]

Wow, it looks great! Hopefully the next update won't take quite as long...