Correct Brake Line Kit?

[rambot]

Hello, I'm a bit lost here . What would be the correct brake line kit for 1971 Mach 1 with disc brakes up front and drums in the rear? I accidentally bought some wrong lines already, and would rather cut my losses and do a clean install, but it's hard to judge from the pictures on the websites which is the correct line based on the pics I took of my old lines. I know I have a 9 inch rear end, but unsure if the car came with a factory rear sway bar.

 

[Pegleg]

It would probably be more cost effective to take your old lines to a local shop that makes brake lines and they could just copy your old ones

 

[Stanglover]

Back in 2010, I did a front brake conversion from drums to disc, so while at it, I installed all new preformed SS lines from NPD. The front lines where disc type and went in very easily, fitted perfectly. Now a lot of guys don't like SS because they are harder to get sealed, but with proper flare wrenches, I had no issues. You can I believe, get the kits preformed in steel if you prefer. They're not going to rust out for as long as you are likely to own your car and are cheaper. The back lines were definitely harder with the drive shaft in place. No big deal to drop the shaft, but I suggest getting a tailstock plug of the appropriate size. NPD sell them in a "kit".

For me doing a conversion and adding a power booster and disc/drum master cylinder, coupled with installing an adjustable rear brake bias valve, I found I needed to pretty much custom make the lines from the M/C, but still not a big issue. 

Hope that helps,

Geoff.

Or do as Plegleg suggest and let someone else have all the fun!

 

[jowens1126]

I just went thru this with my 71.

Though it was a GIANT pain in the ass to install the front lines. The main front to rear line should line up nicely with the stock location for the proportional valve. The clips that hold it on the firewall will not be real fun with the engine in place, nor the ones for the passenger side front brakes, but it IS doable. You will just have to remove the strut braces and the Blue emissions can to get access. Photograph each clip. some screws are longer than others so keep track of that as well. Note All of the connections were extremely difficult to get loose. I would suggest changing the original proportional valve and the hoses if you have not done so.

Much like Stanglover, I had to custom make the lines from the master to the proporotional valvle. They aren't bent correctly. I just went with some of the Nickle-copper lines from the parts store and used a tubing bender to bend them over. You should be able to find any adaptors you need at the parts store or some master cylinders come with the adaptors. Otherwise you will need to cut and flare the lines with the proper fitting. Very easy to do on the nickel-copper lines as they are nice and easy to flare with any tool.

I got stainless lines from NPD. If you have to make any changes to the line end fittings, well your going to have trouble without the proper flare tool. The typical flare tool will NOT work on stainless. Trust me, I tried. Don't even think about attempting it with a parts store tool. You will need a hydraulic tool or the expensive eastwood tool. That being said, I would double check that your Proportional valve fittings match the fittings in the kit your getting. That's the only place you will find any issues if at all.

2265-29S

BRAKE LINE FRONT TO REAR STAINLESS STEEL

2267-5S

BRAKE LINE SET REAR AXLE STAINLESS STEEL

2265-14S

BRAKE LINE SET FRONT DISC STAINLESS STEEL 5

This was one of the best upgrades I have done to this car. Since changing out the lines and replacing my leaking distribution valve, my brakes work 100% better.

If you want an easy flare tool to use I got this eastwood tool and it was great for the soft lines, but would not work on the stainless lines. It would flare the stainless but it would not seal properly.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&msclkid=4d240a272cb11e2cc13f56839bedad1a

 

[jowens1126]

Stanglover

what is a "Tailstock plug"? Have a link to the kit containing it?

 

[Hemikiller]

If your car is a true Mach1 with an "05" code in the VIN and "63R" on the door tag, it came standard with the Competition Suspension. If it's an H or F engine code, it did not have a rear sway bar from the factory. If it's an M, Q, C or J code, then it should have had a rear sway bar.

 

[rambot]

If your car is a true Mach1 with an "05" code in the VIN and "63R" on the door tag, it came standard with the Competition Suspension. If it's an H or F engine code, it did not have a rear sway bar from the factory. If it's an M, Q, C or J code, then it should have had a rear sway bar.

Thanks for this info. Spent a good amount of time trying to figure this out yesterday, I had a feeling mine never came with the rear sway bar. Hard to tell when I'm the fourth owner and last guy that had it, near a 100 cards across different empty yards. Mine's an H Code, but true Mach 1.

 

[Stanglover]

Stanglover

what is a "Tailstock plug"?  Have a link to the kit containing it?

Re NPD 2107 catalogue. 902-4 @ $16.75 for the set. They're called Trans output shaft plugs. Even with these, you have to buy the set, but only need one for the trans you have. I wrapped electrical tape around the tailstock and plug to make sure it didn't come out while working on it.

As for fitting the lines, my engine was in also and I had no real problems fitting the lines. I did not have a power booster in at that time, which did make it easier for sure. It took me 1.5 hrs to do the right side and less than an hour to do the left, that's lines and fit the disc brakes which were SSBC 4 piston Kelsey-Hayes style.

Geoff.

 

[rambot]

I just went thru this with my 71.

 Though it was a GIANT pain in the ass to install the front lines.  The main front to rear line should line up nicely with the stock location for the proportional valve.  The clips that hold it on the firewall will not be real fun with the engine in place, nor the ones for the passenger side front brakes, but it IS doable.  You will just have to remove the strut braces and the Blue emissions can to get access.  Photograph each clip.  some screws are longer than others so keep track of that as well.   Note All of the connections were extremely difficult to get loose.  I would suggest changing the original proportional valve and the hoses if you have not done so.  

Much like Stanglover, I had to custom make the lines from the master to the proporotional valvle.  They aren't bent correctly.  I just went with some of the Nickle-copper lines from the parts store and used a tubing bender to bend them over.  You should be able to find any adaptors you need at the parts store or some master cylinders come with the adaptors.  Otherwise you will need to cut and flare the lines with the proper fitting.  Very easy to do on the nickel-copper lines as they are nice and easy to flare with any tool.

I got stainless lines from NPD. If you have to make any changes to the line end fittings, well your going to have trouble without the proper flare tool.  The typical flare tool will NOT work on stainless.  Trust me, I tried.  Don't even think about attempting it with a parts store tool.  You will need a hydraulic tool or the expensive eastwood tool.  That being said, I would double check that your Proportional valve fittings match the fittings in the kit your getting.  That's the only place you will find any issues if at all.

2265-29S

BRAKE LINE FRONT TO REAR STAINLESS STEEL

2267-5S

BRAKE LINE SET REAR AXLE STAINLESS STEEL

2265-14S

BRAKE LINE SET FRONT DISC STAINLESS STEEL 5

This was one of the best upgrades I have done to this car.  Since changing out the lines and replacing my leaking distribution valve, my brakes work 100% better.

If you want an easy flare tool to use I got this eastwood tool and it was great for the soft lines, but would not work on the stainless lines.  It would flare the stainless but it would not seal properly.

https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-on-car-flaring-tool-for-3-16-tubing.html?SRCCODE=PLA00010&msclkid=4d240a272cb11e2cc13f56839bedad1a

   Thanks, I unfortunately bought the wrong brake line complete kit already over a year ago. Went with stainless because I thought it'd be the best option. I have since learned a lot since perusing these boards. The last time I was able to work on the car was about a year ago. I'm going into my 4th year owning this car and my 5 year time period I gave myself to have this car back on the road is quickly coming up. The car is at my house now, which will allow me to work on it a few hours a day when possible, rather than on dedicated weekends.  if I were to do this over, I'd leave the brake lines in place, and go as I was swapping them out. I got too confident and took out the old lines all at once, and took pictures, thinking the new lines would simply go in place. Sadly, that wasn't the case. I'm cutting my loses and buying the proper kit this time, I feel because I did it once already, I know my war around the lines, that if I had bought the proper kit, I know where everything goes now.

 

[rambot]

It would probably be more cost effective to take your old lines to a local shop that makes brake lines and they could just copy your old ones

Too late for me. I had taken out the old lines a while back. Had to cut some of them because they were impossible to remove.

 

[Stanglover]

A real PITA for sure as now you have no ready reference. sucks when that happens! Also, don't forget to replace all the rubber flex hoses, back and front. They can look great on the outside, but be totally useless inside, rotted or swollen.

As the system has been open for a year, you'll need to go over everything making sure fittings and the like are totally cleaned out, no spiders!!!

Take your time, brakes are life savers..... literally.

Good luck,

Geoff.

 

[rambot]

A real PITA for sure as now you have no ready reference. sucks when that happens! Also, don't forget to replace all the rubber flex hoses, back and front. They can look great on the outside, but be totally useless inside, rotted or swollen.

As the system has been open for a year, you'll need to go over everything making sure fittings and the like are totally cleaned out, no spiders!!!

Take your time, brakes are life savers..... literally.

Good luck,

Geoff.

Thank you. Somebody uploaded great pictures here that I'll be using as reference, but if I don't think about it, and show up under the car, i somehow remember how things went, I also took plenty pictures on my own. But I'll be holding off on buying the brakes for now, while I clean up the trunk and some necessary maintenance. So maybe in a month I'll buy them and get them hooked up for real. I really appreciate the help from everyone.