Bleeding the brake lines -- how do I use this?

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Location
Coachella Valley (Palm Springs)
My Car
1973 Convertible, 351 4v CJ, C6, Mach 1 Decor options, power: steering, brakes and windows, a/c, Rally Pac gauges, Deluxe interior.
[url=https://ibb.co/ZVjjKXW][img]https://i.ibb.co/zrMMbxG/s-l1600-2.jpg[/img][/url]
Seems to be a maxim in restoration land: every task seems to beget a dozen more. All I wanted to do was change the front discs and rear drums to new pads. Brake fluid came out like old/dirty motor oil, so decided I'd try to bleed out that old fluid and replace with new. Discovered front flex brake lines in a crumbling condition so going to replace those, too. (FYI: quite surprised at the extensive list of common but custom parts available at O'Reilly!). So I got the bleeder kit. How the heck do I use this?

I would have expected the adapter would fit into the end of the flex brake line detached from the calipers, but it's not threaded and the opening passes through both sides (new flex line shown in pic). Can't use the adapters to where the flex line connects to the brake line as both the adapter and fixed brake line outlet are male. Suggestions?

Brake rebuild.jpg
 
The kit on the left is a master cylinder bleeder kit. That is usually used when the master cylinder has been replaced. It involves disconnecting the brake lines from the master cylinder, putting a couple of the blue connectors onto the master, and then routing the flexible rubber tube so the output of the master feeds directly back into the top of it.

99% of the time, if you are just replacing something in the brake system further downstream, like the line at your calipers, you do not need to use the master cylinder bleeder kit.

There are several ways to bleed brakes on old cars like ours. The most popular is probably the 2 person method where one person sits in the car and works the brake pedal while another loosens and tightens the bleeder at each wheel. There's probably a million videos of that process on youtube.

Next up, there are a handful of different tools you can buy to allow 1 person to bleed the system. From different bleeders, to vacuum pumps, to pressure pumps. If you have a helper handy, the 2 person way is what I'd suggest.
 
Turns out... the kit was useful if for nothing else, the tubing they supply for draining the fluid away from the car. We're using the two person method. Back right is bled, but man that fitting is tricky to get back in place when you're working in reverse and your near-vision sux
 
but man that fitting is tricky to get back in place when you're working in reverse and your near-vision sux
Which fitting did you take loose?

After replacing the rubber line up front, you should be able to bleed the brakes without taking any fittings apart. Use a wrench to just crack the bleeder screw open, and slide your rubber hose over the end of it. The fluid passes through the existing bleeder screw. So as you're bleeding at each wheel, all you are doing is loosening and tightening the same bleeder like 1/4 turn.

If you are taking anything loose past that, you are possibly introducing air into the system, which is what you dont want.
 
There is a special wrench made just for bleeding brakes. I find this is easier than using just a 1/4" box end. ( I think it is a 1/4"on our cars!!) They can be bought in different sizes I'm sure.
 
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