cudak888: 1971 M-code "Soylent Green" - 2024: Help me measure the frame!

[Totalled]

Nice. Glad you got the respirator for the lead removal.

 

[auron73mach1]

Nice to see you're back at her and I believe that they are supposed to be color coded at least mine were and she showed no sign of a previous restoration

 

[cudak888]

I think something is missing.



Factory spot welds were everywhere - and nicely randomized, just to make things a pain.

Getting the spot welds at the roof seam are really fun. The quarters are installed at the factory before the roof, so the roof flange spot welds have to be cut first. Most of these welds successfully fused both roof and quarter to the base structure below.

However, a second set of welds were put on prior to this to hold the quarter in place. Most of these were notably lower; some hadn't even fused correctly.



The quarter has a flange which curves straight down into the beltline, creating the mounting area for the quarter window lower weatherstripping. This will be compounded in difficulty by a second flange which creates the upper part of the C-pillar curve, and a tab that fits under the roof.



It's not going to be easy to work the quarter flange in there - not to mention that the panel slides under a few trunk channels too.

You can't see it here, but there are about 20 spot welds that hold the quarter at the window channel to the two flanged panels below it. About 60% of these spot welds were obvious - to the point where they had been heated so much at the factory that I didn't even have to knock a pilot hole for the Rotabroach cutter to center the bit.

Didn't really snap many photos of the job, but I'll post a photo of the old quarter when I get a chance. C-pillar had to be peeled away like an orange. The door jamb had some brazing in it to hide the panel creases.

-Kurt

 

[caspianwendell]

Now the fun begins

 

[cudak888]

Now the fun begins

The fun began long ago.

I really don't mind any of it, regardless of the aches or pains I get at the end of the day. Can't think of a more satisfactory way to spend the weekend.

-Kurt

 

[mrmach1]

wow she was hit hard. Good luck with the new sheet metal. Repo quarter skins are not very good quality but if its all you can find it'll have to do. I do love the car though. Same color as my 72 Mach. keep us posted as you progress. Thanks

 

[OMS]

wow she was hit hard. Good luck with the new sheet metal. Repo quarter skins are not very good quality but if its all you can find it'll have to do. I do love the car though. Same color as my 72 Mach. keep us posted as you progress. Thanks

MRMACH1

Full fastback quarters are now available

 

[cudak888]

wow she was hit hard. Good luck with the new sheet metal. Repo quarter skins are not very good quality but if its all you can find it'll have to do. I do love the car though. Same color as my 72 Mach. keep us posted as you progress. Thanks

Damage wasn't that substantial. The main issue was my attempt at putting a skin on without gluing the top edge, and dealing with the incorrect, reverse curve at the rocker panel.

The skins are not proper representations of what an OEM panel looks like at the edges. I'll be posting some comparison photos.

MRMACH1

Full fastback quarters are now available

From the small photos at Dynacorn, it appears as if these have the proper lower flange width and angle at the rocker and wheelwell, correct?

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

A bit of a monumental occasion today:







Door gap is perfect when the panel is fit in place to the rocker (photos show it loose). Gaps at the trunk are all funky in the photo, but shoving the panel into place by hand gets it where it belongs.

A few observations and comparisons regarding the NOS panel vs. the old repop skin:

The repop skin that I had previously fit to the car (note that we're talking the skin that has been on the market forever - not the new Dynacorn full quarters) never mated to the inner wheelhouse correctly. The top of the arch was 1/4" off - no matter what I did to fit it prior to welding. Of course, the reverse-stamped panel mating at the rocker didn't help, but even after adjusting that, the wheelhouse remained a problem.

Additionally, the area that curves under the car to mate with the trunk dropoff was stamped too wide, pushing the quarter outwards at the bottom.

By comparison, the NOS quarter has ZERO issues. The wheelwell is a perfect match, as is the rocker, door jamb, and trunk dropoff. It even mates properly to that questionable area which forms the lower trunk weatherstripping channel - which was the source of the taillight panel fit issues.

I'm going to play with the fit some more until I repair or replace those corners. In the meantime, I can breath a bit easier.

-Kurt

 

[Mister 4x4]

Good news, Kurt! Glad to hear it's finally coming together for ya. ::thumb::

I wish Dynacorn would've put these out about 6 months ago... along with the cowl panels a couple years ago... I had no problems ripping off the quarter skin I screwed up and replacing it, but now that the paint's down - it's a bit tougher to justify.

Oh well - my wife actually said something this past weekend that almost floored me. I pointed out something I wish the painter would've done better, and she (out of the blue) said, "I'm sure this won't be its last paint job. Just make sure it gets fixed next time." I still have a bruise on my chin from my jaw hitting so hard on the driveway. I think I'm just going to get it back together and drive it awhile.

Can't wait to see yours back together!!

 

[mjlan]

Thanks for posting this- your attention to detail makes the documentation of the process invaluable for those of us that are thinking of attempting similar repairs.

Very useful info!

 

[cudak888]

I wish Dynacorn would've put these out about 6 months ago... along with the cowl panels a couple years ago... I had no problems ripping off the quarter skin I screwed up and replacing it, but now that the paint's down - it's a bit tougher to justify.

Eric, doing the quarter is a bit more than you might think.

The panel fits excellent, but was a ROYAL pain in the arse: The upper flange of the quarter has a tab that slips under the roof, while the quarter window area has a flange pointing in the exact opposite direction that curves around the window bracket.

The result? You can't get either into place.

I had to cut the roof alignment tab on the quarter short - that worked for the top - but then I had to remove the two spot welds holding the window bracket in place and twist that thing until I could work the window flange over it.

If you're replacing both quarters, you may get fed up to the point of considering taking the roof skin off.

For your car, the skin replacement was just fine.

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

I wish Dynacorn would've put these out about 6 months ago... along with the cowl panels a couple years ago... I had no problems ripping off the quarter skin I screwed up and replacing it, but now that the paint's down - it's a bit tougher to justify.

Eric, doing the quarter is a bit more than you might think.

The panel fits excellent, but was a ROYAL pain in the arse: The upper flange of the quarter has a tab that slips under the roof, while the quarter window area has a flange pointing in the exact opposite direction that curves around the window bracket.

The result? You can't get either into place.

If you're replacing both quarters, you may get fed up to the point of considering taking the roof skin off.

-Kurt

Not..There is a technique process to getting the otr on & off..No need to take off the roof skin & no need to remove any spot welds from the window bracket..I forgot how many times I had both otrs on & off on my car while fitting..Is it a bitch ? Yes.. for a first timer who hasn't hung full qtrs on a car before

 

[cudak888]

Not..There is a technique process to getting the otr on & off..No need to take off the roof skin & no need to remove any spot welds from the window bracket..I forgot how many times I had both otrs on & off on my car while fitting..Is it a bitch ? Yes.. for a first timer who hasn't hung full qtrs on a car before

I don't consider myself an unintelligent sort, but from the way the panel is designed, I cannot see how the quarter can be slid under the roof and over the window bracket at the same time.

I looked over that panel and the car about ten times over and tested for fit conflicts 4 times before concluding that the only other method - short of removing the roof skin - would be to remove the spot weld holding the C-pillar corner reinforcement (on the quarter panel) to the quarter's outer weatherstripping flange, then massaging said weatherstripping upwards to clear the window bracket. Seeing as the flange and the curved beltline of the greenhouse would not allow for easy bending, I chose to do it as I described before.

Please explain your method.

-Kurt

 

[cudak888]

Installed some sheet metal screws today to test panel fit before welding. Ditto for the NOS taillight panel as well.

Excuse the redneck quarter window - I don't trust the car cover that much, and urban Miami has more critters than you'd think.



The door gap is excellent - a bit bigger at the top than the bottom, but perfectly flush. In short, exactly how it looks on the LH side and every other "quality" Ford shoved off the assembly line in 1971. No worse or better than factory, and exactly where I want it to be.

Ran out of light and time, so the rear photo is dark. No time for a tripod and long exposure:



I spent some time doing some measurements and level checking on that taillight panel and got it right where it belongs. The quarter-to-taillight panel flange sits correctly now, and the end cap profile lines up with the trunk.

The quarter panel wasn't creased all that well at the factory though, and the end cap shape doesn't quite match up to the quarter. I've seen this on more than one of our cars - the accuracy of how the end plate was spot welded to the quarter is hit-or-miss. Since it is an easy fix, I'll be taking the factory spot welds out of the top section of the quarter end plate in order to sharpen the angle.

The only remaining issue is that the quarter-to-trunk gap remains way too close. I'm almost positive the trunk corner is sitting too far inboard and pulling the quarter inboard. I'll find out this weekend.

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

Not..There is a technique process to getting the otr on & off..No need to take off the roof skin & no need to remove any spot welds from the window bracket..I forgot how many times I had both otrs on & off on my car while fitting..Is it a bitch ? Yes.. for a first timer who hasn't hung full qtrs on a car before

I don't consider myself an unintelligent sort, but from the way the panel is designed, I cannot see how the quarter can be slid under the roof and over the window bracket at the same time.

I looked over that panel and the car about ten times over and tested for fit conflicts 4 times before concluding that the only other method - short of removing the roof skin - would be to remove the spot weld holding the C-pillar corner reinforcement (on the quarter panel) to the quarter's outer weatherstripping flange, then massaging said weatherstripping upwards to clear the window bracket. Seeing as the flange and the curved beltline of the greenhouse would not allow for easy bending, I chose to do it as I described before.

Please explain your method.

-Kurt

Kurt,

You have to get the window bracket started first..(It's the first thing you do) That means the panel is held about a foot forward of the door jamb & the back of the panel is held up in the air to get it started & THEN at the 7 o'clock position..In other words it gets rocked into place.. once you have that you then slide the panel back (still angled) Which then allows you to get the part that slides under the roof..Having a WEDGE installed under the roof lip helps a lot. you then straighten the panel to get the lip under the roof..Once thats done you then LIFT THE REAR of the panel (you need a few paint sticks on the outer wheelhouse to keep the otr from attaching itself to the lip) With the panel lifted you then massage the side rear window edge over the inner structure at the front & rear & at the same time using a flat thin spoon wedge etc. slip the front rain channel into place..The wheel lip is the last part you attach..It's a lot easier to show hows it's done vs write it..Believe me it can be done..Having wedges spoons in key places helps tremendously..As does having 2 people

 

[cudak888]

It's a lot easier to show hows it's done vs write it

No need to apologize for that. Having installed that thing myself, it makes perfect sense.

It also explains how I was unable to get the panel in that way. Rotating it to 7-o'clock doesn't work unless the car is a foot or two off the ground. Simple, but easy to overlook. No matter - at the end of the day, I got it in with no harm to panel or myself.

Out of curiosity though, do coupes have it as easy? The flying buttress flange looks as if it could go either way on the difficulty scale.

-Kurt

 

[Qcode351mach]

It's a lot easier to show hows it's done vs write it

No need to apologize for that. Having installed that thing myself, it makes perfect sense.

It also explains how I was unable to get the panel in that way. Rotating it to 7-o'clock doesn't work unless the car is a foot or two off the ground. Simple, but easy to overlook. No matter - at the end of the day, I got it in with no harm to panel or myself.

Out of curiosity though, do coupes have it as easy? The flying buttress flange looks as if it could go either way on the difficulty scale.

-Kurt

You are correct, having the car raised allows lots more maneuvering rocking room..It's how my car was set up to install the panels..No matter how you slice the pie unless you have done it a bunch of times installing a full qtr takes some rocking pushing pulling lifting to get the panel in place..You did a nice job & your learning as you go..

 

[cudak888]

Rear quarter alignment worked on today and the trunk gap taken care of. The trunk corner had been bashed up by the bodyshop that replaced the taillight panel more than from the accident. Test-fit the valance too; that fits good as well.

End cap-to-quarter fit is a bit funky, but it's factory funky. I ran my fingers across the cap behind it, and the edges are too close to adjust by just taking out the top spotwelds. I'm not messing with it. Factory wouldn't have done any better.

Gaps are perfect now. Quarter is ready for welding.

Taillight panel will have to wait until I fix those lousy trunk corners, but I also believe it may be sitting too far to the left. The taillamp openings are not equally spaced against the end caps, but the filler neck opening and bolts are centered (and the recess isn't - what else is new?). Go figure.

You did a nice job & your learning as you go..

Q, I can't tell you what that compliment means to me, coming from a perfectionist such as yourself. Thank you!

-Kurt

 

[Mister 4x4]

I wish Dynacorn would've put these out about 6 months ago... along with the cowl panels a couple years ago... I had no problems ripping off the quarter skin I screwed up and replacing it, but now that the paint's down - it's a bit tougher to justify.

Eric, doing the quarter is a bit more than you might think.

The panel fits excellent, but was a ROYAL pain in the arse: The upper flange of the quarter has a tab that slips under the roof, while the quarter window area has a flange pointing in the exact opposite direction that curves around the window bracket.

The result? You can't get either into place.

I had to cut the roof alignment tab on the quarter short - that worked for the top - but then I had to remove the two spot welds holding the window bracket in place and twist that thing until I could work the window flange over it.

If you're replacing both quarters, you may get fed up to the point of considering taking the roof skin off.

For your car, the skin replacement was just fine.

-Kurt

Good to know... and thanks for the detailed explanation. The only 'bad' thing about watching Scott work is that he makes these things look so easy. I know these things are not "that" easy (trust me), it's all about skill, technique, experience, and patience. It still tends to empower a guy a little seeing it done, done well, and so seemingly effortlessly.

Glad you got it on! I know you've been patiently waiting to get to this point. Still can't wait to see it all back together. ::thumb::