Cylinder Head Gasket Matching Help! 351 2v

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scoot302

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'71 Mach 1
'72 Mach 1
I am putting the cylinder heads back on and I am trying to figure out how much to modify the gaskets. The gaskets I took off the engine had not been modified at all.

My question is how much cutting should I do to my new gasket? I have numbered off all the passageways below to try and make it easier. I have heard from some engine builders that some passageways should remain blocked. And my new cylinder heads instructions say, "Don't be alarmed if some of the holes in the block are restricted by a smaller hole in the gasket. This is done intentionally to regulate coolant flow."

My first instinct was to stamp out holes 3,4,5,6,10,12,14,16 so that they mach the blocks holes. Is that correct? Any help would be appreciated.

The Block:

35mm78z.jpg


The New Gasket:

6od3j4.jpg


The Old Gasket:

ehzoy1.jpg


The New Cylinder Head:

esjb5y.jpg


 
As long as the hole are not completely covered I would not do a thing. I cant recall my uncle ever having to punch a head gasket out. Sure someone will come along with a better answer

 
They are a pair of Trick Flows power port 225 heads. I think they were released a little over a year ago. There isn't much user review or data on them, but if they put up any where close to the flow numbers Trick Flow claims they get I will be happy.

 
I have the Trick Flow "Streets" for my 545 (bored and stroked 460) and have Trick Flow's recommendation for which gaskets to use.

I do not think you should have a problem with the unmodified gasket but agree with Doc in that you should give Trick Flow a call and ask them the specific question.

Just my $.02.

BT

 
IMHO I agree with everyone.. And as cobra said call and ask for gasket recomendation. Looks like you are building seriously and gasket can be purchased in different thickness, Altho it doesnt seem like 10 or 20 thousand would be a big deal, it can effect you cr so I would also see what trick flow has to say.

 
I know the holes at the front and back are important. The holes at the front of the block were small so the coolant would be pushed all the way to the back of the engine to aid in more even cooling.

I honestly wouldn't modify them. A lot of research has gone into them over the years and is why they are made the way they are.

 
Ya they are aluminum. I did purchase the recommended gasket by Trick Flow (Fel Pro 1013). I have an email into there tech support with the same images I posted here, so we shall see.

 
Well since I am a beginner I figure there has to be others with the same questions. If I can't find a post on here about this subject then I figure making one can only help the community. :)

 
As everyone else has said I'd leave the coolant holes alone. I would check to see the oil return holes are not obstructed. Are you going to dyno the engine? Chuck

 
I want to Dyno it. I would have to take a 2 hour ride to either Sacramento or San Francisco though. I only have chassis dynos in town.

 
I have never installed a set of aluminum heads. I 'think' the torque sequence might be different and the final torque might be different as well. Make sure you check and don't just use what's in the manual.

 
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