To all who can fit under our dashes I am too fat to. With car running, check voltage with lights on at fuse panel, if same as at battery, 14.5 volts, no problem due to factory style voltage sensing , ect. If a one wire alt. voltage at fuse panel is even 1 volt lower that battery, my point is proven. NO one wire alternator has ever been put in a factory street vehicle, period. The 3G 3-wire setup is a great unit to use.
You are correct if there is a voltage difference from battery to dash there is an issue. Doesn’t matter on the type of alternator. The factory style alternators all use a voltage sensing to turn on the alternator, they either have an external or internal voltage regulator.
The advantage of the 3G is more modern bearing and design. It will work flawlessly.
The advantage of the one wire is in its name , it takes one wire to hook it up.
It is is the same 1G housing but uses 2G-3G windings that’s how they get the 150-200amp output. They have been used in millions of cars since the 80 when they came out, just not from the factory.
The other advantages is 150amps for $100. Where as 3G alternators are 100amps for $150-$250.
The draw back to the one wire is it has to be reved up to turn it on. So there is a potential to kill a battery if you just idle the car for too long.
Again both system work and it goes to your preference on what you want to run in your car.
I am changing my wiring to have the fuses in the glove box to make maintenance easier. I have added a relay box in the engine bay to handle heavy loads as I plan to modernize my 73 to be a daily driver and easily upgrade as I go.
The simplicity and cost is why I am running a one wire alternator.
Also you can use a usb charger in your cigarette lighter with a voltage read out to make the voltage checks easier next time.
I am using this one attached , I like the analog look.
Thank you for your input and your time, I am sure it will help a lot of people make up their minds on alternators .
