Distributor and Ignition Info Thread

[72HCODE]

the black with pink swirl if i remember is the resistance wire. the resistance wire also has "DO NOT CUT" written on the band some actually say "DO NOT CUT RESISTANCE WIRE".

basically the wire has a higher Ohms resistance the idea was to lower the voltage going to the points on the ignition to prevent the points from burning up faster.

if i remember i drops the voltage from over 12 when the engine is running with alternator charging down to 8-9 volts.

some cars the resistance wire has less ohms then others so some people have no issues with electronic ignitions and using the resistance wire. other cars have a very high ohms reading and the voltage may drop to 6-7 volts not allowing a electronics ignition to work properly. thus you have to run a 12 volt line from either the alternator or ignition switch. to the module bypassing the resistance wire.

However bypassing the resistance wire will render the stock OEM dashboard tach inoperative, So so guys go for the MSD ignition box with the Tach adapter and bypass the normal ignitions from the steering column to get around it.

some other people will cut the resistance wire behind the dash and run a new wire out through the harness to the distributor. there is a split where the resistance wire stops and it is crimped with a heat shrink over the joint and it becomes a normal wire. doing this will allow the stock TACH to continue working as normal.

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Buying a msd box is not an option

I heard the duraspark should work better than msd but **** off... that should not be a what is better threat.

Ok as i thought cutting that ***** is the wrong way... thanks

When u take a look at my diagram i posted than u can see that i should split the "pink" wire before it goes to become that resistance wire.

Is that also false?

Do u mean that i should follow the wire till it becomes a normal cable and than split it?

Next question

When will the "pink" wire become a normal wire? before or after the first plug?

Thanks

Regards

 

[71fordramair]

pink wire coming from under fuse box in my 71 vert was really warm when key was on. it said "do not cut or splice" down it, i followed it by heat and it went all the way to glovebox and back to ign. switch plug! about 6ft. i re wired some14-16 ga. wire from plug on column to fuse block,[you have to un bolt and take down}. red w/green stripe comes out here and to coil. now i have 12v instead of 3v to coil. get on carbdford.com or google HEI module inside duraspark box. runs great for cheap. next im going to put relay in between coil and switch to get 14.6 volts. the more you put in the more you get out.

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Hi Thank you a lot for posting.

Ok but i think i have a red with green stripes still in my engine bay near the starter relay. Than i can normaly split it in engine without going to interrior right? If u got a pic from your cable it would be cool.

Sry my english is bad what did u mean with rewire 14-16 ga (gauge?) wire?

Thanks a lot.

When i got it working ill add a vid here

 

[71fordramair]

remove resistor wire for best performance and better reliability. replace with 14 or 16 wire to get 12v to coil. red w/green stripe on starter relay is part of the coil power system,[the one closest to starter cable] it goes to plug by the throttle cable, it will connect to another red w/green stripe, come out of the plug and go to coil. the duraspark box can be made more reliable by gutting it out and bolting in a GM HEI 4 pin module. get the instructions, google "GM HEI inside duraspark box".

 

[Wolverine]

Once you start playing with your ignition components, you need to be careful for the following reasons(some posted on this thread, some not)

1. Regarding aftermarket coils.

As a GENERAL rule, aftermarket coils are 6 VOLTS regardless of what they list their input voltage. MANY/most(Not all) coils have a resistor built into them. So, although they say 12 VOLTS on them, they are INTERNALLY reducing the voltage to 6 volts. As a result, you need to know exactly what you need and exactly what to buy. Otherwise, you can stack up your 6VDC ignition with an internally ballasted coil to have an effective voltage of 3VDC. I chose Mallory because they have very good data on their coils so you can get exactly what you need. Not sure about anyone else.

2. Regarding aftermarket ignition point replacement.

Your mechanical point ignition was meant to run at 6VDC to prevent the points in the distributor from arcing during the opening/closing. Ford had a resistor wire, GM had a resistor in the coil, Chrysler used a BALLAST resistor. All have their advantages/disadvantages.

For the record, Pertronix is not a HIGH VOLTAGE ignition system. It simply replaces the points. It still requires your coil to be be run at 6 VDC. I have scoped 3 different sets of Pertronix Ignitors. Although the Ignitors themselves like 12 VDC, they do not like coils ultimately drawing more than 8 VDC..TOPS.

HEI Modules are high energy. Duraspark are high energy. I prefer HEI because they are smaller and cheaper and fit in my glove box.

However, at this point in time, all are probably much more reliable than points. To each his own.

3. Regarding your tachometer.

There are issues with the tach as the tach is expecting/monitoring the voltage through the coil and expects it to be 6VDC system. The PINK WIRE is under the dash, it is very hard to find because there is no "slack" in the line, and it is made of IRON instead of copper. So it is much more brittle. The easiest way to find it is to remove the instrument panel. Replace all those light bulbs with LED's while you are in there and you will be very glad you went to the trouble...unless you like not being able to read your dash at night.

4. Regarding HIGH ENERGY.

HEI is indeed high voltage. I am in the process(weeks away) from scoping out a variety of HEI modules to compare the cheap modules with expensive. If anyone has a spare they want to throw may way for testing, I am ready. Just scratch your girlfriends phone number in it with her name. I want to make sure my wife isn't cheating on me.

5. Regarding distributor cap/rotor.

A WIDE BODY distributor cap is not necessary. FOLKLORE made it seem that the wider body was required to prevent cross firing. I am unaware of anyone witnessing cross firing from a standard size cap.

6. Regarding HP/Gas Mileage

(No one asked, but FYI) The MAIN REASON electronic ignitions were introduced was to comply with EPA STANDARDS and EPA WARRANTY REQUIREMENTS. Points did not last long enough to meet the EPA WARRANTY of 3 years(I think that was the initial warranty). And, once the catalytic converter came into play(1974) the car manufacturer's had good reason to keep the exhaust free of unburnt fuel/oil. Let's face it, points begin wearing down the minute you start the engine. At 3K, most of us can tell the difference in performance(especially those of us who burnt up points like crazy by "hyping up" or coils to 12 volts instead of keeping them at 6 volts). Electronic ignitions simply ran like a brand new set of points...and for much longer. (And, when I say electronic ignition here, I mean strictly POINT REPLACEMENT). The downside is back in the day, 1980's that duraspark module was about $150(that was the knock off) and was replaced every 26k miles.

And if you made it this far, aren't you wondering why the MANUFACTURER of your ignition system, who is supposed to have all this "knowledge", isn't able to help you figure this out? I am.

Now, get into that dash, and find the pink wire.

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Puh

ok. I have flamethrower 2 or 3 stock looking coil.

Duraspark module and distributor.

Please try to write as easy as possible... Best would be a step by step =)

As i understand

search resistor wire

than cut it and connect it with wire 14 or 16 right?

After than i can splice the red/green wire in the engine by with the coil + red cable from module and the starter relay.

Is that correct?

Thanks pros :-|

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

There are two ways how i can go.

First

split resistor wire before getting resisted to get 12V for the duraspark module

and use the stock resistor harness with the red/green cable for the coil and starter relay with 8V

But why cant i use any permament 12V cable for the duraspark module? Why this special resistor one???

Other way:

Bypass resistor wire 12V and connect with the new "run" wire the coil + duraspark module + starter relay

But some told i will get gauge/tach problems with this.

and what happens with the stock resistor wire wich is still in the car?

I also searched the harness and have new pictures i think i have the resistor wire on it.

I still found no pink wire or a wire with the letter "dont cut" ... so if someone can please identify it it would be cool.

So im still where i was for some days.

It will be cool if someone can really tell me in simply words how to connect it now right. without gm,msd or other ways.

I also heard that my coil should handle 12V normaly without problems.

This is what i have:

Duraspark II ignition module

Duraspark distributor

Flamethrower II

Here are the pics

Regards

Andi

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Pictures from the harness


and here is an other way to wire it from auto resto mod

And again completly different.

They mean that i only have to connect the red module wire with red/green.

Srsly the system is gonna make me sick

 

[midlife]

The pink resistor wire's core is nichrome, not iron. You cannot solder another wire to it as a splice, unless you know how to silver solder. You can crimp the pink resistor wire to another wire, however.

My personal preference is to leave the Ford wiring alone, and find an aftermarket ignition system that adapts to Ford, not the other way around. I've seen the results of butchered wiring harnesses when using an inappropriate ignition system.

MSD does make an adapter that allows one to use the pink resistor wire and keep the tach functional.

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Hi

Thanks

I have all the duraspark stuff and i invested to much time with searching and wiring that im not going to switch in any other systems again and as u can see at the restomod diagram they also used the red/green. It seams that it doesnt care if the module gets 12 or 8v as u can see at the diagram. They only cared about the 8v at the coil.

As i said i hope that someone can tell me in easy steps how to connect the the red wire and if possible how to use the 12v method without having gauge issues.

Regards

andi

 

[Wolverine]

Hi

Thanks

I have all the duraspark stuff and i invested to much time with searching and wiring that im not going to switch in any other systems again and as u can see at the restomod diagram they also used the red/green. It seams that it doesnt care if the module gets 12 or 8v as u can see at the diagram. They only cared about the 8v at the coil.

As i said i hope that someone can tell me in easy steps how to connect the the red wire and if possible how to use the 12v method without having gauge issues.

Regards

andi

I am unaware of a way to get the stock factory tac to work with 12V going to the coil.

Therefore, stop looking for the pink wire, get the tac completely out of the circuit and keep all of your ignition wires in the engine bay.

I would help you with details, but it is kind of late. And every one here knows I hate to give out bad advice regarding wiring. But if you don't get some competent help by tomorrow night, you'll get some additional help from me.

Still, I am curious why the manufacturer who made this system for your car can't help you with the wiring. Piece of crap manufacturers and their lies.

 

[gpierce]

The downside is back in the day, 1980's that duraspark module was about $150(that was the knock off) and was replaced every 26k miles.

If you think that's bad try the first electronic ignitions used by Ford Australia. They are Bosch made modules and distributors somewhat similar to Duraspark except the modules to this day are $1000 replacement!!!!

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Hi pros. Thanks for your answers

Thats the funny thin we are around 12hours in time away (austria - usa)

Ok i searched again a little.

I forget the 12v on coil method

Maybe i start it again next year but this time i just want to drive.

What i know now.

Red/green in the engine is for the coil and the starter relay with 8v working.

So i only need to connect my red module wire to the ignition switch run with 12v.

That should be the resistor wire before it goes to be a resistor wire.

So locating the resistor wire or better the run position on the ignition switch should finaly end my problems.

I googled a lot yesterday i hope someone can tell me with pic where that is.

Regards andi

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

After hours of searching i found it.

Red with green stripes near the ignition switch is the 12v beginning resistance wire.

And also for 8v method. The ignition module only needs the volts to know that i want to start.

So the module should run with 8 and 12v

The only thing is.

Using the 12v bypass method will make my tach useless. But why and how can i run the 12v and the tach?

I also heard using the 12v from alternator also should work for 12v method + working tach but that should be risky.. No idea

regards andi

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

And for all wich wants to leave the resistance wire as it is.

Mustang Unlimited offer a power relay that convert the 8 to 12volt for the coil

Regards

 

[Wolverine]

And for all wich wants to leave the resistance wire as it is.

Mustang Unlimited offer a power relay that convert the 8 to 12volt for the coil

Regards

Crap. Why didn't you say were from Austria...or is that short for Australia. You got me all confused with the 12 hour thing.

Just tell me weather it is spring where you are, or is it fall?

And, just relax. You don't need to by any more crap. You have plenty to work with.

Does this attachment help you at all? You should be able to power your Duraspark as the Pertronix is wired.

Do you have a WHITE WIRE on your DURASPARK module?

This is why people need to do research before forking over their cash. And don't forget...spring or fall?

PertronixWithTach.pdf

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

Hi

Yeah i should now be able to do all methods i want.

And finally I also found why the one cable was wrotten from the pre owner... -.-

The ignition switch is destroyd so i bought a new one... should come next week.

But now its easy to identify the cables. The run connector must be the pre last one and start the last cable.

Yeah I have a white wire on my duraspark module. It needs to be connected to the -coil.

Why is the relay crap?

I come from Austria not Australia living in a small town with my modified Mustang.

I will never drive it legal here but no problems, because I have some friends

I will post the result and hopefully a video with a running 460cid monster engine

Regards

Thanks to ALL!

Andi

 

[CZ-75]

The PO installed a proform HEI distributor which is freakin' huge. I like the electronic ignition, but it is too large for me to install a Ram Air cleaner base. So I am researching a smaller solution.

I have come across a solution from MSD that does not require a separate ignition control box and is supposedly 5/8" smaller diameter than a stock dizzy. It is called their "ready to run" distributor.

http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Distributors/Ford/Ready-to-Run/E-Curve/8350_-_Ford_351C-460_Ready-To-Run_Pro-Billet_Distributor.aspx

Anybody use one of these? Anyone recommend something else? It needs to allow the installation of a Ram Air cleaner base.

Thanks for any advice you can give!

 

[rutkak]

CZ-75,

I'll be following this one close because my rolling restoration 1970 is the exact same way. The PO or one of them installed an HEI that is huge as well. The didn't even have ANY air cleaner on there. That, of course, caused a whole host of other problems but I'm certainly limited to what I can put in. The HEI fires up IMMEDIATELY and that's pretty cool.

I was considering a stock reman dizzy with Pertronix Ignitor III like I have in my 72 or just the Pertonix dizzy although I recognize neither is actually HEI. I didn't answer your question, but if I come across something in my research I'll add it in here.

-KR