Distributor and Ignition Info Thread

[Don65Stang]

Call MSD tech support. My 6AL went underwater from Katrina. MSD said doesn't matter what happened to it if I pay them $75 they will repair or replace it with a new one. I think it was $75...if not it was something close to that number. MSD will need to give you an RMA # before you send it to them.

+1 for the Duraspark replacement.

 

[Don65Stang]

I remember asking the same thing awhile back, and wound up going with a Duraspark distributor.

I'm going to run this set-up:

Duraspark "Blue Grommet" ignition module (1981 F-15 w/351M) - O'Reilly P/N: CBE7P $35.99

NPD Duraspark conversion harness - NPD P/N: 14289-40A $113.95

Cardone distributor (thru Summit) - 100-302893 $63.95

Duraspark II cap & rotor (small cap to fit under Ram Air) Summit P/N: SUM-G5208 $14.95

Accel Super Coil - Summit P/N ACC-8140HV $53.95

The only "expensive" part was the National Parts Depot conversion harness, but it has the resistor wire and is a complete bolt-in/plug-in unit with the right plugs, sockets, etc. I also like the idea that you can pick-up pretty much everything from a local parts house because it's essentially the same stuff as you'll find on just about every Ford truck and 'big car' from the '70s through the early '90s (rather than wait for a mail-order MSD ignition box or distributor stuff).

This is pretty much the same set-up I have on the Jeep, without the harness (Jeep already had it), module (Jeep already had one) and distributor (Jeep already had that, too). Really woke up the Jeep's anemic 4.2L (factory 125hp) and I'm running Champions with the spark plug gaps at .055" - with no more 'rich' condition.

Here's the link I found talking about it from VMF: http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

Eric, I bought the same distributor and for the fun of it I toolk it all apart. I discovered the mechanical advance had 18L and 21L slots. If I would have stayed with the 18L slot that would put my mechanical advance at 36 degrees. Since my initial is set at 16 degrees the total advance would have been 52 degrees! Yikes!

I welded the slot opening smaller then filed the opening to 0.410" which is a size 10L that yields 20 degrees of mechanical advance for a total advance of 36 degrees...the perfect number for our cars according to Chuck. Since you have the same distributor you may want to check yours. I'll post a pic of my welding job in a little while. Actually I welded one side and I let my 8 year old weld the other side. I think his turned out better than my side but after grinding they both looked the same.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

Guys,

I am using in both my 351 Cleveland & 460 Mallory Unilite distributors. The installation and wiring is very simple and have had no issues in 10 yrs with the Cleveland. Both vacuum or mechanical advance is available.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Thanks, Don - I'll check it out when I get back to the shop on Saturday.

Clevelandcoupe: we're talking about a distributor set-up that will replace the points and still fit in there with the Ram Air air cleaner (in other words, can't be much, if any, bigger than the stock distributor).

 

[Don65Stang]

Eric, post a close up pic of the NPD harness if you can. I snagged 3 Duraspark harnesses from the local upullit yard. I see how it wires up for a non tach car and see diagrams for a tach car. The tach version uses existing wiring where the non tach way to hook it up replaces the wires that go to the coil. Curious to see the NPD solution.

Basically the Duraspark WHITE input (12v) is for start only & during cranking tells the Duraspark to retard 4 degrees so we can run a little more initial and still be able to crank it with the starter. The RED input is also a 12v input but it's the main power to the Duraspark. Problem is every diagram I see for the tach hookup doesn't show the white being used for the 4 degree retard for cranking.

Mustang Steve has the retard function but no Tach signal provision.

John Ha's diagram shows that the tach will work but I question the white input being attached to the solenoid "I" terminal. Wouldn't this setup below always made the Duraspark be retarded 4 degrees?

From Mustang Steve's forum

I'm wondering if he meant to draw the white input to the "S" terminal. Thoughts?

 

[Mister 4x4]

The NPD harness came with instructions, and I believe I remember the white lead going to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid. The red lead goes to a switched 12V source. I have a non-tach car, so mine pretty much follows the instructions.

I also won't be able to see the car until Saturday (shop's closed during the week).

 

[Don65Stang]

The NPD harness came with instructions, and I believe I remember the white lead going to the 'S' terminal on the solenoid. The red lead goes to a switched 12V source. I have a non-tach car, so mine pretty much follows the instructions.

I also won't be able to see the car until Saturday (shop's closed during the week).

Yeah, I think I'm going to put the white to the "s", run the red to a switched 12v source, and leave the factory red/green coil wire in place. I may put a switched relay in the red line with a dedicated 12v from the batt so as to not tax the existing harness as added insurance.

 

[clevelandcoupe]

Guys,

The Mallory Unilite distributor is the same size or smaller than the original Ford unit. My 73 Mach 1 had the duraspark conversion on it when I received it and it had a lot more complicated wiring than the Unilite.

I have attached a photo of the Unilite which is currently installed on my 460 in the Mach 1.

Thanks, Jay

 

[mustang7173]

I am running the Mallory Uni-lite DIST,FORD V8 351C along with the HyFire Spark box and Mallory PROMASTER COIL, 55,000 Volt along with the Door's "Light My Fire" Playing on the CD Player. It is rock n roll baby!

mustang7173

 

[gpierce]

Don't use a relay for ignition, this is dangerous. They can stick "on" and cause you not to be able to shut off the car.

Greg

 

[Don65Stang]

I welded the slot opening smaller then filed the opening to 0.410" which is a size 10L that yields 20 degrees of mechanical advance for a total advance of 36 degrees...the perfect number for our cars according to Chuck. Actually I welded one side and I let my 8 year old weld the other side. I think his turned out better than my side but after grinding they both looked the same.

Here's the pic of the narrower slots. You can see how much bigger the slot was if you look closely. Now it's a perfect .410" which gives 20 degrees mechanical. If I need more mech advance I'll sand it open a bit more.

 

[mustang7173]

All,

I have never had any problems with the two Unlite distributors that have. That is a good idea to think about though.

mustang7173

 

[Don65Stang]

This weekend I plan to wirie in the Duraspark unit. I had the car running on the Duraspark unit with alligator clips attached to the solenoid.

Two questions about the Red and White wires going into/powering the Duraspark:

1. White Wire

The white wire tells the Duraspark the engine is in cranking mode and causes it to retard the timing by 4 degrees. The white wire needs 12v power while cranking only (START position on ignition switch). I believe the "S" terminal on the solenoid is 12v when the key is in the start position. Does the white wire attach to the "S" terminal?

2. Red Wire

The red wire supplies 12v to the Duraspark when the engine is running. What is a good 12v source that has power only when the ignition switch is in the RUN position?

Thanks!

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

HI pros... I know its me.. again

But Im close to get the ***** running ^^

I added a pic with the wiring diagram wich i hope it is the correct for me

durasparkII

Till now i did all the wiring, only 1 cable is missing.

Its the red one wich comes from the duraspark module.

It should be conneted the the red/green wire behind the firewall, also there should be a pink cable wich need to get a circut breaker.

I could not found that pink or the red/green one.

But I found the red/green at the engine bay wich was connected to the starter relay i think.

But from the starter (relay I) should come a brown one wich i also dont have.

So know my question:

Can i go from the module red to the red/green cable in the engine bay and splice it with a cable going to the starter relay I?

And how can I find the "Run" cable wich comes from the ignition switch, than i can make the circuit braker.

Thanks guys!

Regards

Andi

 

[Mustanggary]

Not exactly sure but don't believe you said any thing about a resistor. You only need 6volts from module red wire to coil.

 

[wwhite72]

i believe the pink wire is the resistor wire that brings it down to 6v. it has been a while, but i believe i had to bypass (rewire?) that wire to get 12v to the MSD.

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

HI pros

Are u talking about a ballast resistor wich need to be connected on the pink wire?

Got it, but... i couldnt find it today... strange are u sure that its a pink one?

And from whre do i get that ballast resistor? Is that some special?

Thanks!

Regards

Andi

 

[wwhite72]

Ford didnt put in what you would call a "ballast resistor" block...the pink wire IS the resistor. i think i found it on the wiring diagram that was glued in my original owners manual. and my car is a 72. the 73's could very well be different. Does the Duraspark need constant 12v? or only at startup and requires a 6v constant? i have no idea. i have MSD. but i have always heard very good things on the factory parts.

 

[Mister 4x4]

The resistor wire is in fact a much thicker wire with resistance built-in.

Here's a link to O'Reilly Auto Parts: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/RU13/02763.oap?year=1985&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1133761&ck=Search_ballast+resistor_1133761_1613&keyword=ballast+resistor

Here is the diagram I'm using (which matches up to the complete Duraspark conversion harness I bought from NPD:

http://www.mustangsteve.com/conversion.html

It seems like all of the Duraspark conversion sites I've been to say to disconnect the 'pink' wire. I haven't found the 'pink' wire on my car yet... so I'm not quite done either.

 

[Andreas1973MustangMach1]

HI

Checked today the steering column about the resistor cable.

Here is the pic

All have the same sizes and the only pink cable is the pink?/white in the middle.

Is that the resistor cable?

Regards


The shit is.. there are so many diagrams wich are different.

I know that diagram wich u posted.

The editors name should be gary i think.

The said that he shot 3 times his coil until he cut that pink wire.

and now he is selling his car to a motivated buyer he said

Regards