Dynamat the only option?

[Robsweden]

Hi

I used Gladen, rather expensive but great results

 

[jowens1126]

I used Rattle Trap XXX. It was about half the cost of Dynamat. Same performance. Dont expect miracles. What this type of material does is remove the harmonics that resonate thru the car body. It IS worth it though. You just dont have to do every square inch. Do the floor, headliner, inside the doors, the real resonant parts, big flat areas. If you want to reduce the noise inside the car, you will have to go further with something like Luxury Liner, which is a mass loaded vinyl. Its damn expensive but it really reduces the sound.

As others said above, reducing the sound of the car, using rubber bushings instead of poly will do more than anything.

I would like to try the lizard skin and ceramic heat shield they have. They are spray on products similar to truck bed liner. Far easier to apply than the peel and stick and likely to last much longer as well. Does the same thing with the added benefit of being able to spray it over the spray on heat shield. These cars make alot of heat, anything you can do to combat that is a welcome thing.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

Just some info from my past working with Ford and also John Deere.

Ford used a laminated steel, plastic, steel in their pick ups before the aluminum now. Might still be laminated I do not know. The firewall and part of front floor had the laminated material. It deadened the engine noise. If you thumped the material with a wrench it did not sound like normal and did actually work very good.

I suggest to John Deere that they use it in their large tractor cabs we were doing a redesign on. There engineers said that it would not work with the big diesel engines that the harmonics were different??

They had this thick under the floor mat material might have been 1 1/2" thick to kill the noise from the tractors diesel engine.

I was working with a new material called Tegris developed by the textile mill Milliken in Spartanburg, S.C.. https://textiles.milliken.com/products/tegris

Stronger than carbon fiber and lighter than aluminum. It was used in the splitters on NASCAR and also in bodies for Indy cars along with armor for military vehicles. The issue with carbon fiber is that when they have a crash it splinters and makes very sharp point that puncture tires easily if the track is not cleaned spotless.

I was doing forming experiments using different amounts of Tegris between layers of steel and aluminum. I wanted to develop it to be use in door side impact beams and pick up truck beds. The other thought was to use for the sides of campers and motor homes. The crap they have now usually used Luian plywood with fiberglass sheets that get wet and fall apart. Of course after I left the company nobody carried on with the development. It also gave some sound deadening properties.

If any of you are in product development it is a fantastic material for sure.

A big part of my job was to come up with new materials and processes that gave us the upper hand.

 

[icejawa]

Not sure if it was mentioned but summitracing has some cheaper self branded mats but I'm not sure if they're the absolute cheapest out there

 

[73' mach 1]

I did Eastwood XMAT

https://www.7173mustangs.com/thread-installed-xmat-this-weekend

 

[Mister 4x4]

If I had to do it all over again, I'd probably go with the Lizard Skin like Mike did.  Mask stuff off once, shoot the coating, peel off the mask, and go from there.  Installing the 'mat products' is an all day affair (if not more), very slow-going, and requires lots of skill to get anything close to the same kind of almost-100% coverage that spray-on coatings could afford.

 

[jowens1126]

I agree, if i could do it again, lizard skin would be the way I would go. They also make a spray on ceramic heat shield that you can go over the lizard skin with. These cars need all the heat shielding you can get, especially if you run long tube headers.

 

[Mister 4x4]

I agree, if i could do it again, lizard skin would be the way I would go.  They also make a spray on ceramic heat shield that you can go over the lizard skin with.  These cars need all the heat shielding you can get, especially if you run long tube headers.

Actually, mine seems to have the opposite issue, since I went with ceramic-coated headers (Hooker Competition ceramic-coated long-tubes, actually).  I've used several different laser thermometers pointed at various different points on the engine and exhaust system while idling after several minutes at a time, and expected to see temps in the '400-to-600-and-above' range on the headers.  I've never seen anything close to that.  I think on the end of the tubes right at the mounting surface of the head - where you would expect to see the highest temps, I might've seen temps in the 250-270 range.  Seriously - nothing ever higher than that... on the headers, no less!  I was concerned with the higher temps of headers, especially since it seems like the starter gets a little bit of heat soak after running awhile (it has that little stutter when cranking, like the battery just ran down to zero for a split-second, then it cranks right over).  But aside from that, I have no evidence that my engine's running any hotter than it should be - ever.

But, you are correct that any and all heat shielding is a good thing.   ::thumb::

 

[73pony]

I had my headers coated with CeraKote on the outside and InsulKote on the inside and yes they put off very little heat on the actual header, however when you measure the temp of the exhaust pipe from the header collectors back to just past the H-Pipe they are extremely hot which is right under your feet.

 

[tony-muscle]

I agree, if i could do it again, lizard skin would be the way I would go.  They also make a spray on ceramic heat shield that you can go over the lizard skin with.  These cars need all the heat shielding you can get, especially if you run long tube headers.

Actually, mine seems to have the opposite issue, since I went with ceramic-coated headers (Hooker Competition ceramic-coated long-tubes, actually).  I've used several different laser thermometers pointed at various different points on the engine and exhaust system while idling after several minutes at a time, and expected to see temps in the '400-to-600-and-above' range on the headers.  I've never seen anything close to that.  I think on the end of the tubes right at the mounting surface of the head - where you would expect to see the highest temps, I might've seen temps in the 250-270 range.  Seriously - nothing ever higher than that... on the headers, no less!  I was concerned with the higher temps of headers, especially since it seems like the starter gets a little bit of heat soak after running awhile (it has that little stutter when cranking, like the battery just ran down to zero for a split-second, then it cranks right over).  But aside from that, I have no evidence that my engine's running any hotter than it should be - ever.

But, you are correct that any and all heat shielding is a good thing.   ::thumb::

I have the same ceramic coated headers and the other day for the first time had the same issue you had with the starter. At first it stuttered as if the battery was low and then it cranked right away. I have a hi-torque starter as well which is smaller and it is more separated from the header. I may have to add a heat shield in the area.

 

[mach71351c]

I did both coatings. I can say when you close the doors or trunk it just seems tight even as bear shell.

 

[Newold]

Think I’m going with lizard skin inside What do you all use under the car? Just paint? I heard of some using Raptor liner. Just wondering if I can clear over it so it don’t collect dirt as much.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Don C]

I've been contemplating this issue for some time, and have a couple of rolls of Peel and Seal from Lowe's in my workshop waiting to be applied. However, I came across this today, comes out to be about $1 a square foot, downside is not self adhesive.

http://www.carinsulation.com/buycarinsulation.html

You hear decent reviews about LizardSkin, just exorbitantly expensive. I like the concept, no way for moisture to get under it like there is with stick on foil faced insulation. There are a lot of people making their own, using latex based paint and adding glass and/or ceramic microspheres to it , in a 1:1 ratio, with mixed results.

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/lizard-skin-homemade-ls-questions.968882/

So, I'm now thinking about using some homemade LizardSkin as the base with foil on top. The microspheres, also called micro-balloons, aren't very expensive, and mixed paint mistakes are cheap at Lowe's, an undercoating spray gun is around $25. Some folks have also used the latex based elastomeric sealants mixed with the beads. LizardSkin is a latex based product mixed with the microspheres, glass for sound, and ceramic for heat.

 

[keiths71]

Home made lizard skin hmmm.

 

[OzCoupe72]

Lizard skin is a bit too expensive for most people. As Don stated above it is fairly easy to make your own using ceramic micro-spheres mixed 50/50 with preferably a latex paint but I just used a gallon of enamel that was a mismatch for $20. Sprayed it through a schutz gun but reckon you could brush it on. All up about $120 compared to over $500 for the Lizard Skin. I also added some aftermarket adhesive sound insulation that was half the price of Dynamat and frankly can't see what the difference is.

I haven't driven my vehicle prior to doing the above so can't comment on before/after but do believe it will make a difference and should give some heat insulation as well as sound deadening. I did take my vehicle for its first drive a while back and happy to say that while it is quiet when coasting but once the lead foot is applied it certainly growls!

 

[keiths71]

At the time I used it a couple yrs. ago. I went 1/2 on the gun with someone else. The gun is O.K

at best. I also used a bedliner gun for some of it. I used sound and heat controll. along with their mil gauge. I don't really keep track of cost on my own cars. (that gives me some deniability to you know who) but doing floors and the fire wall with both sound and heat controll. roof, doors, with heat controll and trunk with the left over sound controll. I doubt I spent near 500.00, and if I did in my opinion spray on has so many advantages over stick,down matt it would be worth it, espessially as far as trapped moisture goes

I've pulled dyna matt out of floors that were full of water bubbles under the paint. Maybe a different climate than Florida wouldn't be as bad with the Matt. Now you got me thinking about making some for my Chevelle. Thanks for the idea.