Engine date stamp

[Detector]

Well I found my engine date stamp on the right side front just outside the timing cover.

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

1970 if i dont mistake on the letter...

 

[Detector]

What do you think open or closed chambered?

 

[URUGUAYAN_FASTBACK]

Not a clue!!! jeje... but wait till the guys read this and they´ll know how to answer that!

 

[c9zx]

I believe it decodes as June 1, 1970. The J may be the character used by the assembler, I'm not sure. Chuck

 

[cobra3073]

Since your Mustang is a 1973, I find it unusual that it would be date stamped in 1970...could be, mine you, but I just find it unusual. The block date code should be found under the rear of the right cylinder bank. It will be right below the block casting number (probably D2AE-CA in your case) and will be a four (4) alphanumeric number

As to the heads, the best way short of taking a head off is to check the casting number on the heads. With that number, we can tell you whether it is open chamber or close (quench) chamber.

Hope this helps.

BT

 

[goodnigh]

As to the heads, the best way short of taking a head off is to check the casting number on the heads. With that number, we can tell you whether it is open chamber or close (quench) chamber.

Where is that casting number on the heads again?

I will probably need to borrow a flexible fiberoptic scope from

work to read it though.

mike

 

[Detector]

Looks to be right.

0=70

F=June

1=1st

J=Inspector's code

 

[cobra3073]

As to the heads, the best way short of taking a head off is to check the casting number on the heads. With that number, we can tell you whether it is open chamber or close (quench) chamber.

Where is that casting number on the heads again?

I will probably need to borrow a flexible fiberoptic scope from

work to read it though.

mike

The casting number for the 351C head should be found under the Intake Port. If it is still on the block, you may be able to see it with a mirror.

BT

Looks to be right.

0=70

F=June

1=1st

J=Inspector's code

Again, I am PRETTY sure that code is not what you seem to be saying that it is. Verification for the casting date of the block (if that is what you are speaking of) can be determined by checking the code on the block (See my previous post)...just a suggestion.

BT

 

[Detector]

I was going by a reference from http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/datecode.htm

It says a 4 digit block date code would be:

Example: 6B14Q

"6" = 1966

"B" = Feb

"14" = Date

"Q" = Inspector's Code Letter (A-Z)

The way I thought it worked was the block CAST code was the cast ID/design/part and the date the cast was um... cast. I.E. my block cast numbers are D0AE-L <- cast design ID, and a cast date code of 0E22(May 22nd 1970) which is the date the cast was made. The stamped date code is stamped when the engine is put together/assembled. In my case it has the STAMPED date code of 0F1J which should indicate my engine was manufactured June 1st 1970 and inspected by Inspector J

If I got it wrong someone please correct me.

Here is my block CAST numbers.

 

[cobra3073]

I was going by a reference from http://www.hammar.dyndns.org/~djhamma/datecode.htm

It says a 4 digit block date code would be:

Example: 6B14Q

"6" = 1966

"B" = Feb

"14" = Date

"Q" = Inspector's Code Letter (A-Z)

The way I thought it worked was the block CAST code was the cast ID and the date the cast was um... cast. I.E. my block cast numbers are D0AE-L <- cast design ID, and a cast date code of 0E22(May 22nd 1970) which is the date the cast was made. The stamped date code is stamped when the engine is put together. In my case it has the STAMPED date code of 0F1J which should indicate my engine was manufatured June 1st 1970 and inspected by Inspector J

If I got it wrong someone please correct me.

Here is my block CAST numbers.

You are ABSOLUTELY correct..I guess the thing that is "confusing" me is that I understood your Mustang to be a '73 and that everything is original.

The casting number on your block does bring on another problem as to whether or not your heads are open or close chamber. The problem is that SOME D0AE-L blocks are actually Boss 351 blocks, although the majority are 351 2V. With that casting number and 4-bolt mains, you should have a Boss block which would mean close chamber heads. I would say that the way to make sure would be to drop the oil pan and see if it is a 2-bolt or 4-bolt main block.

You might also want to check the back of the block (on driver side) below the left cylinder head to see if you have a partial VIN as some of them will have it. This should help you determine whether or not the original motor was changed and someone installed a Boss motor. Of course, another possibility is that the original '73 motor was replaced with a more readily available '70 2V block.

As I mentioned in a previous post, your '73 is a near twin of mine, although mine was built approximately a month later. There are a LOT of possibilities as to what motor you have in your Mustang, in my mind. If you have the heads that were SUPPOSED to be on your '73, they will have non-adjustable rocker arms; the Boss will have adjustable rocker arm. Pulling a valve cover will answer that question.

...so many questions (in my mind).

BT

 

[Tnfastbk]

Putting my money on an early engine swap but would be cool if you do have a boss engine

 

[c9zx]

Is there a raised 4 on the top corner of the heads outside the valve cover? If so you would at least know they are 4V heads. Chuck

 

[Detector]

Yes the heads do have a cast number 4

Also has screw in studs

No it is not the original CJ engine and I've wondered why someone, who seems to have cared about having a good strong engine, would take out a 4 bolt CJ and put in a standard 2 bolt. Why not build up the original CJ instead? I guess the answer is to see if it is a 4 bolt block then it would make sense.

 

[c9zx]

Yes the heads do have a cast number 4

Also has screw in studs

No it is not the original CJ engine and I've wondered why someone, who seems to have cared about having a good strong engine, would take out a 4 bolt CJ and put in a standard 2 bolt. Why not build up the original CJ instead? I guess the answer is to see if it is a 4 bolt block then it would make sense.

They may have destroyed the original engine. The heads are 4V the rockers appear to be Ford Racing. I think I see a casting date of 0K12, October 12, 1970. They should be closed chamber heads. The few CJs built in 71 were much later in the production run, May/June is my guess. Chuck

 

[cobra3073]

Chuck makes some very VALID points as I recall blowing my first engine and installing another block, although I used my same "modified" heads. Chuck's eyes are apparently a lot better than mine as I cannot make out the "first character" for the date code on the head. Is it a zero (0)?

I tell you, the more I track this thread the more inclined I am to believe you might have a Boss 351 motor. The key, as previously stated should be the casting numbers on the heads and whether or not the block has 4-bolt mains. It would also help if there is a VIN on the back of the block.

Either way, it sounds like you have something SPECIAL!

BT

 

[Detector]

Here is what I found on the back of the block on the drivers side just below the head. I used a mirror but can't make it out.

 

[c9zx]

The guide plates are made by Manley and the retainers do not look like Ford pieces to me. It has been very common to convert to adjustable valve train. I can't read the partial VIN either. Be happy it is a 4V with adjustable valve train.

Chuck

 

[cobra3073]

My 65 year old "Peepers" certainly cannot make out that VIN! LOL

I agree with Chuck that it would appear that you have a very nice motor there. I know it "tears at you" not knowing EXACTLY what you have, so I still suggest trying to get the casting number off the head. You will probably need to use a mirror again. The casting number should be beneath the Intake Port.

Again as Chuck said, it was very common to convert the nonadjustable rockers to adjustable by machining the pedestals and utilizing the Manley parts..that is what I did with my open chamber '73 heads. That way, one could run what was then considered a more desirable solid lifter cam.

Very GOOD Thread!!

BT