Engine running problems

[RacerX]

Hope you didn't wipe a cam lobe out!

Did you break in the cam for 20 minutes at high idle?

Might drop back and check the basics like static compression and pull valve covers to confirm all valves opening and closing properly.

Your description reeks of wiped out cam lobe.

 

[goodnigh]

All things considered, it sounds like a vacuum leak.

Your distributor and the carb are connected correctly.

That is ported vacuum on the carb, no vacuum at idle.

Another member mention a fuel issue. You checked the

float levels but that can work at idle and when you jump

on it, no fuel; bad pump or clogged filter. My Holley has

site windows, they were full at idle but give it some gas, they

emptied and did not refill. I had a vacuum leak in the power

brake system where the hose enters, do your brakes work properly?

mike

 

[Higgins56]

Hope you didn't wipe a cam lobe out!

Did you break in the cam for 20 minutes at high idle?

Might drop back and check the basics like static compression and pull valve covers to confirm all valves opening and closing properly.

Your description reeks of wiped out cam lobe.

Hi,

the cam was professionally run in for 20 min with high idle...

is that Holley new?? if so,.. open it up, check for debri's from the manufacturing process,.. you're not the first who's carb is full with drilling/casting residu.. had the same thing with an 600cfm holley, car wouldnt run for the life of it,.. finally opened up the carb, which was brandnew, found little bits of castings and drilling parts in the bowls and inside the main body, cleaned it out, and it ran beautiful after that..

... yes it is brand new....

i have had similar comments elswhere , too, to check whats inside the carb...so maybe that is the only way to know it for sure to open it.

 

[Higgins56]

Hope you didn't wipe a cam lobe out!

Did you break in the cam for 20 minutes at high idle?

Might drop back and check the basics like static compression and pull valve covers to confirm all valves opening and closing properly.

Your description reeks of wiped out cam lobe.

Hi,

the cam was professionally run in for 20 min with high idle...

is that Holley new?? if so,.. open it up, check for debri's from the manufacturing process,.. you're not the first who's carb is full with drilling/casting residu.. had the same thing with an 600cfm holley, car wouldnt run for the life of it,.. finally opened up the carb, which was brandnew, found little bits of castings and drilling parts in the bowls and inside the main body, cleaned it out, and it ran beautiful after that..

... yes it is brand new....

i have had similar comments elswhere , too, to check whats inside the carb...so maybe that is the only way to know it for sure to open it.

The guy who installed the carb was here today and he was amazided of the symptons and said that it looks like fuel problem.

We took out the first chamber and saw that it was clean - no extra debris or bits from machining.

We put the bits back and started the engine - same as before - the engine could not handle revs at all...

The my mate tested the ignition with a spark plug and there it was !!!!

Every time I pressed the gas pedal the spark disappeared - interesting !

My other mate who installed the MSD system checked the connections and all were OK. Then he started measuring the Voltage level and found out that the voltage regulator could only bring ab. 6 volts when pressing the pedal - could not understand why is that ? Any ideas ?!

The cure was to bring another cable for the ignition system to give a steady 12 volts - this was it and now the engine runs without problems.

Thanks for everybody to give ideas. I hope somebody else struggling with similar problem can now check also the voltage regulator output !

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Electricity's flow is limited by wire size and the quality of any and all connectors. Your ignition is relying upon the lead off of the starter solenoid to power the coil.

I would be willing to make a small wager that if you were to replace your starter solenoid and retest the system in the original configuration, that it would work properly

I am not an electrical guru-I have a basic understanding, so do your own follow up. I am glad to hear you got it fixed and hope to hear about how wellit now performs!

 

[midlife]

Bad motor mounts? Whenever the foot touches the accelerator pedal, the engine torques over, and may be breaking a connection or a wire. That means two problems: a bad motor mount and faulty wiring.

 

[BenD]

a common problem is a bad ground wire,,... often people upgrade the positive side of the battery cable's but the ground wires remain untouched.

sometimes the ground wires (between battery - and engine) become that bad, that the throttlecable becomes the new ground wire. current will seek the path of the least resistance.. if a ground wire ages,. .resistance build up inside, wires corrode and become bad..

so maybe there lies a problem?

but good the hear its running again!

 

[droptop73]

I have run a short battery cable from the block where the battery ground attaches to the engine mount frame bracket.