- Joined
- Mar 30, 2017
- Messages
- 2,337
- Reaction score
- 820
- Location
- The Netherlands
- My Car
- 73 Grande 351C
71 Mach 1 429CJ
So after weeks waiting got my fuel hoses and starter broke the moment I wanted start the sniper for first time. (what were the odds)
Now got the new starter in place, time to try: tadaaaa.... nothing
The starter --> wow. way better than the previous hi-torque mac leod. Engine kranks like a modern car!
but now engine won't start with the sniper...
The handheld device gives me all sensors, all within range.
Got a non ECU controlled setup. (so yellow wire at neg pole of the bobine)
Got fuel going in (and back as well, I can hear it flush back in tank when I stop cranking)
Got RPM's tach signal, seen by handheld while cranking.
During crank, once every few rotations, the engine makes one or two attempts, but not enough to really fire up.
Then measured the current at (pink wire of unit)
supposed to be a 12v during crank and while key on. I saw it drops to 10 something.
I've seen few reports of the unit failing if not 11+.
I'm currently using a splice of the green/red wire, right after the ignition switch.
So question is, if its not this wire, which one would give me 12V key-on and during cranking?
Now got the new starter in place, time to try: tadaaaa.... nothing
The starter --> wow. way better than the previous hi-torque mac leod. Engine kranks like a modern car!
but now engine won't start with the sniper...
The handheld device gives me all sensors, all within range.
Got a non ECU controlled setup. (so yellow wire at neg pole of the bobine)
Got fuel going in (and back as well, I can hear it flush back in tank when I stop cranking)
Got RPM's tach signal, seen by handheld while cranking.
During crank, once every few rotations, the engine makes one or two attempts, but not enough to really fire up.
Then measured the current at (pink wire of unit)
supposed to be a 12v during crank and while key on. I saw it drops to 10 something.
I've seen few reports of the unit failing if not 11+.
I'm currently using a splice of the green/red wire, right after the ignition switch.
So question is, if its not this wire, which one would give me 12V key-on and during cranking?