Findings in my Oil-Pan

[Sheriff41]

First of all, a big thank you to everyone for your support.
I ordered the ARP Oil Pump Driveshafts and will try to fix the old oil pan. If it doesn't work, it's not so bad, now I know the steps that are necessary for the work .
I'll also look at the Oil Pump and the Oil Pickup and maybe order the one with a higher output.
I phoned the dealer who sold me the car. He immediately told openly and honestly what was done.
The old ignition distributor could no longer be turned and adjusted. That's why his mechanic got the order to exchange it for a new one. Wasn't the cheapest on ebay, this one cost around $400 from a German Mustang parts Dealer.
It must have taken the mechanic a long time to remove the old distributor.
He also wonders why he didn't say anything, because then of course the oil pan would have been removed as well.
@ clevelandcoupe: So your are right. Not happen in the last 50 years, happen just now

So I have to wait for the parts

Maybe some of the smarter engine guys (@Hemikiller @c9zx @71ProjectJunk etc.) will chime in here but I think most say to not use the high-volume oil pump.

 

[Omie01]

That is correct, no need to use the high volume pump. Other than all out racing there is no need for it in the Cleveland and it is hard n the pump drive shaft. Good luck!!

 

[Hemikiller]

Never use a high volume pump unless the engine needs it (worn out bearings) or is built with extra clearances and needs the volume. The factory Cleveland pump produces 80psi at cold start, and usually around 30-40psi at hot idle with 10w30 oil.

A new standard volume pump and pickup isn't a bad idea.

 

[Timo73]

Hello, everyone,
a short update to my problem.
I decided on a new oil pan because no rubber seal was installed in the front area, but everything was completely sealed with silicone. By the way, that's where it started leaking. Whether the new oil pan made in China is really better remains to be seen.
I also installed a new oil pump with strainer and reinforced drive (all made in the USA).
Furthermore, the starter renewed, various rubber bearings, etc.
Car started immediately.
Thank you for your good advice and support.
Next time I would actually remove the engine. Cleaning everything under the car is extremely tiring and installing the oil pan gasket overhead, actually by feel and almost blindly positioning the oil pan takes so much time that removing the engine will be faster and qualitatively better in the end.
The crankshaft bearings look different to me than in the 351 Cleveland videos on Youtube. I seem to have 4 screws instead of 2. Is this a Cleveland?

Greetings Timo

 

[Don C]

It appears that you have a Q code (Cobra Jet) block, which came with 4-bolt main bearing caps.