FMX and AOD Shifters

[mustang7173]

Hello Forum Members,

I have converted to an AOD from FMX and I have the conversion shifter rod. When I was reinstalled the restored 71-73 shifter, I just started to wonder, what is the difference? We have all seen threads relating to the shift indicators on the factory shifter for the 1971-73 not quite lining up.

So, if the 1987-1993 mustang shifters are close in design, would the indent bracket swap to the 71-73 shifter? Or is the indent bracket the same on both shifters?

I found this thread relating to the shifting of the shifter.

But ... the shifter no longer aligns with the P-R-N-D-2-1 letters on the floor console .

The old FMX trans moves the shifter through about 2 1/2 inches of travel , measuring from the "P" position to the "1" position.

The new AOD moves the same shifter only 1 3/4 inches of travel. Result is that when the shift lever is in 1st gear it aligns with the number "2" on the floor console.

I believe mister4x4 (Eric) modified a 1997-93 mustang shifter. Please tell I am not crazy!

mustang7173 :idea:

 

[Mister 4x4]

The AOD shifter is a cable shifter, and works 'in reverse' of the stock '71-'73 shifter, which is hard-linked to the transmission.

I modified the shifter to fit better inside the full-length console - which received some modification of its own, as a result. My modifications actually messed up the shifter indicator needle position, with regards to the printed/stenciled letters from the factory, but did not change the length of the throw (just the position... slightly). I rubbed them off, and plan to put some stick-on vinyl letters on the 'outside' of the indicator in the new positions of where the indicator goes.

With the modifications (trimming of plastic) I had to do, I might've simply either gotten an aftermarket shifter (still might), or gone with the hard linkage from the FMX and rebuilt the stock shifter - which would likely cost almost as much as the aftermarket shifter.

So - rock and a hard place for me. For those with nice stock shifters, the FMX bracket might be the way to go.

 

[mustang7173]

Eric,

Can you tell if the indent bracket are different? It seems like the AOD indent bracket would have the different notches related to the AOD shift patterns!

Mustang7173

 

[Mister 4x4]

I'll hafta check on Friday - I still have my original shifter, and I'll compare it against the AOD (and post pics).

 

[Tubo]

Yes the indents are different, though slight. You can File the FMX indents to better match, or use and modified AOD cable shifter from a Fox body Mustang.

The detents in later AODE & 4R70W shifters will match the AOD too.

 

[mustang7173]

Hello Eric and Tubo,

Thank you the updates.

Eric> Look forward to seeing pictures

Tubo> I will look into your recommendations! Is this the process you followed-file the indent until it matches?

mustang7173

 

[Tubo]

If your using a shift rod everything will need to be in the car, then set each gear on the trans and file shifter detents to fit. Ohh Wha'da pain.

It's really easier and you'll have a better shifter, if you modify a fox body cable shifter. I posted some shots of one I did in a thread, I'll have to see if I can find'em.

Tubo

 

[mustang7173]

Tubo,

Look foward to seeing the thread!

Mustang7173

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yeah - no kidding. I'd like to know how crappy of a job I did.

(No... seriously... I don't know that mine was done 'properly,' as much as 'effectively' - there IS a difference, after all)

 

[mustang7173]

Hello Forum Members,

For some reason, I have this problem with the AOD shifter rod (Performance Automatic AOD Shift Linkage Kits PASS53104 ) and the stock shifter arm. According to the instruction, you insert the stud to the shifter and tighten.

So, I had the original shifter rod bushing in place. When I tried to insert the threaded rod, it was hitting the internal bead that helps locate the factory rod. After I finally got it in, there was hardly any thread extended out to installed nut.

I will try to find a different bushing, if possible. Darn, what a pain in the butt!

mustang7173


All,

I might located what I need from CJ pony Parts

http://www.cjponyparts.com/automatic-transmission-shifter-linkage-bushing-kit-1967-1973/p/HW780/

mustang7173

 

[Stocktrader]

I've done both the AOD and the 4R70W.

The 4R70w is the way to go. I've modified the linkage so both the shifter and the steering lockout rod both work perfect.

You will need the use of a machine shop, a welder, and also understand the factory wiring for the neutral safety switch and reverse lights.

If you do the research you can make it perfect. Mine is. It looks and works like it came from the factory that way.

 

[Mister 4x4]

Well, if it's perfect - show us some pics!

Crap - left my camera at the shop. :shy: I'll get those AOD-FMX detent comparo pics tomorrow for sure.

 

[mustang7173]

Thank you Eric.

Stocktrader, I know you got to have some pictures of that setup! Thank You for responding!

mustang7173

 

[Stocktrader]

Dang. Timed out during my reply.

My kid came up to me and I was teaching him mergers and acquisitions. (He starts grad school next week) now my reply is gone. Thats why I don't have a camera or much spare time. I have a cheap $16 walmart phone but I do own Sprint and what was Clearwire stock instead. Kind of funny in a way I guess.

Anyway, figure this. The stock shifter does NOT have to be modified in any way. The shift rods and hardened shift shaft do.

Use a 2001-2001 V6 Mustang trans.

 

[Stocktrader]

Forgot about the wifes nexus. It has a camera.

Shoved it under the car and got this.

Maybe now everybody will stop trying to use the AOD and go 4R70W.

 

[mustang7173]

Hello Stocktrader,

What electronic control are you using for the 4R70W transmission? Are you using the Baumann Electronic Controls? If I could change the transmission path I took, I would definitely gone electronic. But, I was already committed by the time I found Baumann Electronic Controls.

mustang7173

 

[Stocktrader]

Yes it's Baumann

If you have the stock transmission harness don't bother with buying theirs.

With a 3.50 ratio axle I can be fully locked up on the convertor in 4th gear at about 47mph and just about idle down the road. I used the stock 4R70W convertor since I wouldn't push over 5000 rpm. It added a nice little stall with my combo.

I built the engine with flat top pistons 2v heads and a small cam. I drive it everywhere.

I bought the transmission internals from whateverittakes transmission parts.

Use the seals from a GM front wheel drive on the direct output shaft.

They have them listed in the 4r70w section on their website.

 

[mustang7173]

All,

I received the 1987 to 1993 Mustang AOD shifter along with cable and bracket. So, I disassembled the AOD shifter to find the shift indents arranged in a upside down pattern. Crap, that shot most of my theories down the drain! Here are some pictures.

AOD Shifter:

FMX Shifter:

FMX and AOD comparison:

I believe the reason for it being the way it is due to it's reverse shift as described by what Eric (Mister 4 x4) described in the early post of this thread.

One possible solution would be to drive the mustang and shift through it pattern and marking where the shifter is aligned. Fabricate a stop to align with mark.

Another solution would be to try to reverse the shift indent pattern and adapt it to the FMX shifter.

Please comment!

mustang7173

 

[Mister 4x4]

Crap! I knew I forgot something (those pictures I promised). Sorry, Man!

I think your two options are to use the FMX shifter with an AOD conversion kit (the new arm for the tranny should take care of the differences between the AOD and shifter detents), or use the AOD shifter, cable, and brackets and make it fit (there will be some trimming involved if you have a full console and you'll need to fabricate a 'gap' cover for the spaces between the console opening and AOD bezel - which I still need to do). I'm curious to know if the rear-end of the bezel sticks up as badly as mine did.

Before:

After:

Fitting the Console:

The set-up Stocktrader has sounds like a good solution as well, but most likely also uses a different shifter arm on the tranny - having a slightly longer shifter arm would soak up the difference between the shorter throw of the AOD's shifter mechanism, and the FMX shifter's longer travel. The tough part will be to determine exactly how much longer the arm will need to be.

Measure the throw from "Park" to "1" from the center line of the linkage/cable hole (which is 1 3/4," as you mentioned earlier). Then maybe fasten a length of something to the AOD shifter arm and do the same, finding the new place where the throw is the necessary distance for the FMX - that is where the center line for the linkage must be - you'll need to make some kind of a gauge that indicates the boundaries of the travel, basically an angle with the pivot-point as the junction, and do some geometry to make sure the right measurement is taken over an arc (don't ask me - I suck at math). I'd wager the new center line for the linkage will be something like 3/8" - 1/2" further out from the pivot than the AOD's stock location.

Then, just fabricate or modify a new shifter arm for the AOD shifter mechanism pivot, and replace it - you've got mad skills, so it shouldn't be too bad for you. Although, I would think the AOD Conversion Kit shifter arm (that you're supposed to replace and reposition to 180 degrees from stock) would be correct, in that case.

I know the instructions for B&M shifters have you repositioning the AOD shifter arm 180 degrees from stock, because of the way they have you mount the cable. It makes sense because when in Park, the AOD's arm (mounted with the shifter linkage/cable center line oriented 'Up') is full forward, and sweeps toward the rear for selecting other positions. Since the FMX linkage will shift in a direct motion, with the linkage set toward the rear in "Park", and pushing the transmission end of the linkage forward to change positions. Whereas the AOD's shifter cable comes to the shifter from the rear, and pulls the cable 'forward' on the shifter to move AOD's shifter arm toward the rear to change positions.

If any of that makes sense, please let me know.