Ford vs CHI vs AFD vs TFS heads for Stroker

[mikeyhunts]

I post here because of the Cleveland expertise.

I’m building a stroker 351C with Eagle Crank / Scat Rods.

I’m shooting for 450-500hp RELIABLE street warrior.

It will be about 383ci.

4 bolt main, forged RaceTec pistons to 10.1 compression.

Super Super Sniper EFI.

Cam is tentatively a Lunati hyd roller [email protected], 611 lift, 110lsa.

Hooker Long Tube Headers.

4.11 Locker, Powerglide transmission with transbrake.

68 mustang coupe back halfed.

option 1)

I have a set of 4v heads that are epoxied intake and matched to a Roush hi port intake. I’d also use MPG stinger exhaust plates.

Option 2)

I have a set of natural 302 Boss heads drilled for a cleveland.

They are matched to a nice Holley street dominator.

Option 3)

AFD/CHI/TFS Aluminum head with matching intake. Preferably a RPM airgap or dual plane equivalent. What head and intake would you go with?

What say you?

What would you do if you were trying to build a RELIABLE street motor in the 450+ hp range.

And is this a doable game plan?

Will this set up make 450?

Please advise.

I look forward to all opinions.

Come one, come all, unless you tell me to leave it stock.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[73pony]

Leave it stock. Ha!! 450-500 HP from a Cleveland isn’t hard. Especially a stroker. I would go option 1 or 2 only because I am a fan of cast iron heads. Have had head gasket issues in the past with aluminum heads on a cast iron block. I ran a street dominator intake for a while on my set up and pulled 465 at the rear wheels with 2v Aussie heads.

 

[mikeyhunts]

Leave it stock. Ha!! 450-500 HP from a Cleveland isn’t hard. Especially a stroker. I would go option 1 or 2 only because I am a fan of cast iron heads. Have had head gasket issues in the past with aluminum heads on a cast iron block. I ran a street dominator intake for a while on my set up and pulled 465 at the rear wheels with 2v Aussie heads.

That’s promising....

Thanks for feedback.

Which heads did you have issues with?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[tony-muscle]

My guess is that you will hit your target HP with the setup you describe and 4V heads.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 

[Omie01]

I have 450 hp with just a roller cam, blue thunder intake and iron CC 4v heads. Not even stroked. But mind you the power band is in the middle of RPM curve, so the bottom isn't as tough as it could be. But it is still a tire burner either way!!

 

[mikeyhunts]

Well, I won’t be mad if it’s 550-600, as long as it’s dependable and strong.

Allegedly it was 700 before with the higher compression, Bigger cam, and 1050 dominator carb.

I’ve got some tires to burn!

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[c9zx]

I post here because of the Cleveland expertise.

I’m building a stroker 351C with Eagle Crank / Scat Rods.

I’m shooting for 450-500hp RELIABLE street warrior.

It will be about 383ci.

4 bolt main, forged RaceTec pistons to 10.1 compression.

Super Super Sniper EFI.

Cam is tentatively a Lunati hyd roller [email protected], 611 lift, 110lsa.

Hooker Long Tube Headers.

4.11 Locker, Powerglide transmission with transbrake.

68 mustang coupe back halfed.

option 1)

I have a set of 4v heads that are epoxied intake and matched to a Roush hi port intake. I’d also use MPG stinger exhaust plates.

Option 2)

I have a set of natural 302 Boss heads drilled for a cleveland.

They are matched to a nice Holley street dominator.

Option 3)

AFD/CHI/TFS Aluminum head with matching intake. Preferably a RPM airgap or dual plane equivalent. What head and intake would you go with?

What say you?

What would you do if you were trying to build a RELIABLE street motor in the 450+ hp range.

And is this a doable game plan?

Will this set up make 450?

Please advise.

I look forward to all opinions.

Come one, come all, unless you tell me to leave it stock.

Mike

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The power numbers are attainable with any of the heads you listed. The AFD/CHI/TFS heads will make more power and torque but speedy. If you do use aftermarket heads buy them bare and have a Ford knowledgeable racing machine shop select and install the valves and springs. Finding the right machine shop is critical to the outcome. If you are anywhere close to OKC, I can highly recommend Brand Racing Engines. Have them sonic test the block and have them check the crank for taper and runout and the rods for proper finished dimensions, as well as fit the bearings for proper clearances. If "street" means pump 91-93 octane fuel, then there are detonation considerations to be taken into account. Don't guess on camshaft selection, talk to Mike Jones Cams or Brent at Lykins Motorsports. Brent can also provide you with the pros and cons of iron vs. aluminum heads. I assume you are using the glide because it came with the car. You may not like the 2 speed for street use. Just as reference my 9.6:1 408C iron 4V CC head engine made 529HP and 496 TQ with a  solid flat tappet cam and dual plane intake and a 750 HP. The cam I used is OK but not optimal. Good luck with the build and keep us updated. Chuck

 

[mikeyhunts]

Very good feedback and makes me optimistic.

Yes, the custom cam thing intrigued me, but when you call a custom cam maker, they don’t want to talk specifics and exactly what they would run or make.

It’s like their recommendation is a secret, and they just want you to trust them. It’s not like I’m in the cam grinding business and can compete with them.

I did talk to Bullet, but really, at the end if the conversation, their recommended cam wasn’t that much different than the Lunati I had picked out.

What I’d really like to know is:

“Here’s what’s wrong with the off the shelf cam you have picked, here is what I would change and why.”

That would help me pull the trigger on a more expensive cam and the long wait time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[c9zx]

Very good feedback and makes me optimistic.

Yes, the custom cam thing intrigued me, but when you call a custom cam maker, they don’t want to talk specifics and exactly what they would run or make.

It’s like their recommendation is a secret, and they just want you to trust them. It’s not like I’m in the cam grinding business and can compete with them.

I did talk to Bullet, but really, at the end if the conversation, their recommended cam wasn’t that much different than the Lunati I had picked out.

What I’d really like to know is:

“Here’s what’s wrong with the off the shelf cam you have picked, here is what I would change and why.”

That would help me pull the trigger on a more expensive cam and the long wait time.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Both Mike and Brent have told me why they suggest what they suggest. Although Brent is a little more forthcoming and patient. Both have tons of experience with racing and hot street engines. There is a lot more to cam selection than just durations, lifts, and lobe separation angles. In terms of wait time Brent is usually faster. Given the build cost, an extra $100.00, or so , is not a lot. Chuck P.S. the cam I used was a Lunati that I had them change the LSA

 

[OzCoupe72]

As others have said you will easily meet your HP requirements with the factory 4V heads

I'm running Aussie 302 heads CNC ported on a 406 stroker and although yet to get dyno testing I should easily exceed 450HP

As for cam selection I would go with the suggestions above

I went for a Jones cam and although fairly close to the Lunati grind suggested there are some subtle differences

Because I was able to provide cylinder head flow rates he was able to tailor the cam to suit and unlike most cams for 4V engines where they increase lift/duration on the exhaust side mine has .610 intake lift and .602 exhaust but 232 intake duration and 240 exhaust, seems odd but Jones does know his cams

Would be best to order a custom cam once you have your entire combo selected especially heads

 

[turtle5353]

I am a big fan of the AFD heads. Mine are SP4V. With the 408 stroker kit and my recent cam swap my engine builder estimated 550-600HP. It is a blast and has been very reliable since I got away from the Comp lifters. DO NOT BUY COMP LIFTERS!!! I had several failures in a very short time. Even the replacement ones they sent would not pump up right out of the box. I am also running a torquer intake on mine with the ports epoxied to match the heads.

 

[mikeyhunts]

I am a big fan of the AFD heads. Mine are SP4V. With the 408 stroker kit and my recent cam swap my engine builder estimated 550-600HP. It is a blast and has been very reliable since I got away from the Comp lifters. DO NOT BUY COMP LIFTERS!!! I had several failures in a very short time. Even the replacement ones they sent would not pump up right out of the box. I am also running a torquer intake on mine with the ports epoxied to match the heads.

Flat tapper or roller?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turtle5353]

I am a big fan of the AFD heads. Mine are SP4V. With the 408 stroker kit and my recent cam swap my engine builder estimated 550-600HP.  It is a blast and has been very reliable since I got away from the Comp lifters. DO NOT BUY COMP LIFTERS!!!  I had several failures in a very short time. Even the replacement ones they sent would not pump up right out of the box. I am also running a torquer intake on mine with the ports epoxied to match the heads.

Flat tapper or roller?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Mine are hydraulic roller, but have heard of failures on all their hydraulic lifters. My engine builder will not install them in any motor any more. And he WAS a Comp dealer.

 

[mikeyhunts]

That’s crazy.

I bought a set of Lunati link bar rollers, but I always wonder....

Thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[turtle5353]

That’s crazy.

I bought a set of Lunati link bar rollers, but I always wonder....

Thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those are what I ended up going with. Been in the motor a couple years now with no issues.

 

[mikeyhunts]

That’s crazy.

I bought a set of Lunati link bar rollers, but I always wonder....

Thanks for the heads up.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Those are what I ended up going with. Been in the motor a couple years now with no issues.

The $400 street ones or the $700 race one?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk