Front Suspension Refresh?

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Joined
Apr 12, 2023
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Location
Baltimore
My Car
1973 Mustang Convertible
If I wanted to replace all of the bushings and worn parts on my front end suspension? What would those parts/bushings be? I see some that look rather worn out but i am not at sure what they are all called to make sure I get the right parts. Any pointers to a video or process I can follow to figure it out? Thanks!
 
If your not familiar with this I would highly recommend finding a competent shop to do the repairs. To do it properly, start to finish, requires some tools for the job, knowledge, and experience. This isn't one of those times to do "on the job training". You will save yourself a lot of grief and likely $$$ in the long run.
 
for me i'd suggest looking at JCpony for a front end KIT. it's $644 bucks and u get everything. for someone never done before i'd give u 2 to 3 days to finish. the main thing u will need is the spring compressor. my autozone carries it. u use from the top going inside the spring. all other stuff is normal tools. when finished measure your butt off for toe in and hopefully the alin shop ain't far for u will squeal the tires pretty good. on ebay i got both times the kit from new jersey. it was cheaper and complete but they are sold out. i'll be getting mine done at a local shop soon. they charge $100/hr and he figured a day. they do classic cars. if u do it do one side at a time and look at new vs old to make sure they match exactly.
 
The first step, as others have pointed out, is the Ford Shop Manual set for 1973. It'll have all the information, torque specs and procedures needed to do the job you're looking at.

Rock Auto carries the Detroit Iron printed reproductions:
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=12534309&cc=1132995&pt=10335&jsn=1788
Forel Publishing has very nicely done manuals in PDF format
https://fordmanuals.com/product/1973-ford-car-shop-manual-volumes-i-vi/
Autozone has the same tool I use to compress coil springs.

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...Hl8XqFZHhFKG7t-8PCRoC5NAQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I built a quick cart of part from Rock Auto and the complete setup is $331, but you'll have to source the coil spring saddles and insulators from another vendor. These are all quality Moog and Mevotech parts, not the bottom of the barrel stuff that places like to put in their kits.

Summit Racing has the Drake saddles and insulators.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c4dz-3388-ri/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1973
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdk-c4dz-5415-ar/make/ford/model/mustang/year/1973

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I agree with Hemi killer go with Rock Auto and get the quality Moog and Mevotech parts. Removing and reinstalling coil springs can be dangerous if done incorrectly, please be careful. You can rent a coil spring compressor at auto parts stores. If you are doing it yourself, do not use an impact to collapse the spring, It is harder but safer to use a ratchet by hand. Also, make sure you grease up the tools center threaded rod, it will make it much smoother and safer. In all the years I have been rebuilding cars, coil springs are still the thing I like to do the least. Everything else in the front suspension is a pretty routine swap, just measure everything before you take apart and take pictures so you will remember just how it came apart. One last thought, make sure to take pictures of the camber adjustment of the lower control arm before you take them apart. It will make it easier to match the previous adjustment when reassembling.
 

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Wanted to add these pics, this is how I use the AZ compressor. Mine is a Snap On, but it's identical otherwise. Flip the "fork" upside down on top of the shock tower.

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Compress the spring only enough to take the weight off, then remove the two nuts for the upper arm shaft bolts, and slide the arm out.


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+1 for putting the fork part of the compressor above the shock tower. If you try to put the fork through the spring, that limits how much you can compress the spring. And you have to make sure its oriented correctly. Otherwise you'll get the spring compressed and when you go to install it, the top fork is rotated off to one side and blocks to top of the spring from inserting. Then you have to pull the thing apart, adjust your positioning of the fork, recompress, and try it again. Ask me how I know. :D

I also like to use a rope. Tie the spring to the frame of the car. Then as you're compressing and uncompressing it, if something goes really wrong, the spring wont be able to fly out and knock out all your teeth.
 
Would like to add my .02 here.

I have recently completely rebuilt my front end.
Everything was replaced. Most of it is straight forward,
you will need a ball joint tool to separate the ball joints.
As giantpune remarks, the spring compression part can be very dangerous.
If the spring let's go under pressure while removing or on the ground
then serious injury can result. If you are comfortable with the risk then proceed
otherwise have someone with relevant experience assist.

I'm guessing that the bushing's you mention are for your sway bar. These always
look worn and are very easy to replace.

Good Luck and let us know how it goes.
 
Addendum,

If you do manage to get it to the point were you also have removed your upper control
arm then do take a close look at the shock tower. Almost all Mustangs have shock tower
cracks and while the control arm is removed is a good time to do some welding.

The shock towers are a Mustangs weak point. Ford was one of the first to go with the
unibody design so compromises had to be made
 
I am a little late to this party, but I also have 2 cents of advice. If you want to get the most out of your upper control arm bushings, or at least to stop or prevent them from squeaking when they dry out, I suggest installing Zerk grease fittings to the front and rear of the upper control arm mounting shaft. I know in 1970 and earlier Mustangs it was very hard to get in there to lube, much less install, Zerk fittings for those mounting shafts. But for 71-73 the shock towers were redesigned and there is more room to access that area. But, often I find there are no Zerk fittings, which is a horrible thing to not provide as far as I am concerned.

Well, lucky us. Scott Drake sells not only the needed Zerk fittings, but a slim wrench to get access to those tight quarters. To see that I am speaking of I have a YouTube video (of course) where I cover this subject as an aside. The video is at the following link, at 02:07:01 hh:mm:ss into the video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pePLDeD2DMo

The Scott Drake part # is: 374714-SK. They are available from CJ Pony Parts or Summit Racing.

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