Fuel Tank Cleaning

[Rusty Relic]

Does anyone have any ideas on cleaning out a gas tank.???

I have removed it and it has a rusty looking coating inside and what looks like a white powder you would relate to zinc coating deterioration.I am very loathed to replace it due to past experiences with repro parts. Is there a chemical metal treatment out there that works ?

 

[NOT A T5]

30 years ago I cut my original tank open all the way around, removed all rust and dents. Then used an oil and gas resistant coating to cover the inside but left an inch of room on both halves for welding it back together. After smoothing the welds I used the remaining coating and poured it in the tank and worked it around the seam. Hell of a job but no reproduction tanks or originals available at that time! You're better off buying a new tank, they are pretty decent.

 

[jpaz]

I have a new tank and it fits and looks great. Been in for 6-7 years and it still looks great.

 

[Stanglover]

DON"T waste your time trying to clean it. Go to RockAuto.com under 1971 (2 or3) Mustang, fuel system, tank, and order the SPECTRA PREMIUM 20 gal tank. It's made in Canada, will fit exactly as the original and from Rock Auto will be cheaper than the same tank from other vendors. Trust me! 

TIP; replace the mounting bolts with 3 1/2 x 3/8" galvanized carriage bolts, nuts and washers. While you're under there, a good time to clean and or repaint the underside of the trunk floor. Replace the trunk seals as well if need as well as the vent. I don't remember if the tank seal come with the tank, check that.

Here are a couple of pics of the one I put in my car a couple of years ago. While I was in there, I also replaced all the lines with SS, rubber bits with Fuel Injector hose (ethanol resistant) and installed a Dorman 692232 sending unit, which I calibrated with 5 gallons to read 1/4 full.

I chose to add small pieces of 1/16" rubber, a, to stop vibration and b, to allow some air space between tank and floor.

 

[Hemikiller]

As Stanglover noted, the repops for the 71-73s are just fine. Only issue I had was the batch of bad sending units with the tube facing the wrong direction.

That said, if shipping is nuts to New Zealand, then an acid wash and sealer should be the ticket. Can't speak to a brand as I've always just replaced a questionable tank.

 

[SVO2SCJ]

Seeing you are in New Zealand .....will answer what you asked.

With the tank out, get a pound of "nuts and bolts", muratic acid and a chain. put the acid, and bolts in the tank, cap the opening and hang from a rafter/tree and shake it around. Let sit shake, drain (do no use water yet -that makes mustard gas) when drained flush it out let dry and use Bill Hirsch https://www.hirschauto.com/ALCOHOL-RESISTANT-GAS-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/GTS/ We use the alcohol resistant was our fuel has Ethanol in it now. (not sure if yours does)

Mark

P.S. This is for those that don't want reproduction parts on their cars!

 

[mjlan]

I haven't tried the nut and bolt method but have used a length of chain along with a gallon of paint thinner to try and knock loose crap and crud.

Length of chain is easy to fish out when you're done....

 

[Stanglover]

As Stanglover noted, the repops for the 71-73s are just fine. Only issue I had was the batch of bad sending units with the tube facing the wrong direction.

That said, if shipping is nuts to New Zealand, then an acid wash and sealer should be the ticket. Can't speak to a brand as I've always just replaced a questionable tank.

 Yes, for some reason the Spectra-Premium sending unit Rock Auto list is incorrect for the Mustang application with the tube facing the wrong way. That's why I returned the S/P one and exchanged for the Dorman. I've had no problem the Dorman other than a slight adjustment to get it to read 1/4 with US 5 g's of gas.

Mark has good information re cleaning if shipping is prohibitive to NZ.

 

[Carolina_Mountain_Mustangs]

I put one of the replacements on and fit fine zero issues. I think it was right at $100 from a mustang supply house at a show.

They wanted way more to clean the old one.

They were going to cut open blast seal and weld back together. The shop here that does them is a radiator shop.

 

[Stanglover]

And by the way, if the tank is rusty inside, this is what your fuel lines might look like...…… and this was a good bit. Other areas were almost rusted through.

 

[Rusty Relic]

Thanks All

I appreciate the help here as I am sick of trying to modify repro parts to fit but sounds good about the tank.

I will price a new tank with Rock as I have dealt with them in the past and they are great.

Where do I get a "Dorman 692232" sender ?

I will tell you how bad the freight to NZ is, Last week I went onto Easy performance products site to purchase a solid state flasher unit ($25 usd )by the time the freight was added it was $148.06 usd which converted to nzd is $246.76 . A rather expensive flasher module  

 

[6DUB606]

Thanks All

I appreciate the help here as I am sick of trying to modify repro parts to fit but sounds good about the tank.

I will price a new tank with Rock as I have dealt with them in the past and they are great.

Where do I get a "Dorman 692232" sender ?

I will tell you how bad the freight to NZ is, Last week I went onto Easy performance products site to purchase a solid state flasher unit ($25 usd )by the time the freight was added it was $148.06 usd which converted to nzd is $246.76 . A rather expensive flasher module  

The costs of working on old cars downunder !  In a previous post, I acknowledged myself as an ex N Z 'er, now in Australia.  Where in N Z are you ?

I have dealt with a company in Nelson, look up usafordparts.co.nz  - 'phone number shows as 64 3 540 3304 on their invoice.  Might be worth a 'phone call or email before you go much further.  If it helps, i will check a couple of Aust suppliers for tank & pick up / sender or provide suggestions.

Now for cleaning:  I did the " chain in the tank " method on  '65 car by securing a piece of fabric to approx 2 feet / 300 mm of small link chain then putting this in the tank with half a bottle of kerosene.  Shook it around every half hour or so over a day then emptied and let it drain overnight.  Another piece of dry rag with the chain mopped up most of the residue kero and I figured it had to be better than before.   A flush with a dose of regular fuel will help to shift the last of the kero & any loose bits remaining.  Filters should handle what's left.

Everything local is worth a try before you go further afield.

Have fun in the lockdown.   ::thumb::

PKJ

 

[OzCoupe72]

I used a repair kit from KBS Coatings and did a great job. Similar to POR15 fuel tank repair but much cheaper.

Here is a link - https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/auto-fuel-tank-sealer-kit/

You can buy this from formula.co.nz in Auckland

 

[Stanglover]

Thanks All

I appreciate the help here as I am sick of trying to modify repro parts to fit but sounds good about the tank.

I will price a new tank with Rock as I have dealt with them in the past and they are great.

Where do I get a "Dorman 692232" sender ?

I will tell you how bad the freight to NZ is, Last week I went onto Easy performance products site to purchase a solid state flasher unit ($25 usd )by the time the freight was added it was $148.06 usd which converted to nzd is $246.76 . A rather expensive flasher module  

Rock Auto also for the Dorman sender. It was good quality and had a good filter on it.