Getting the engine out of the car...

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Régis

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 13, 2015
Messages
74
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2
Location
France
My Car
Mach 1 1973 Q code
Hi,

I want to put the engine off the car. So I have a  ( noob) question…

To attach the engine to the workshop crane, what is the better: should i use straps around the engine or bolts in place of the carb( so 4 bolts)?

No headers and no gearbox attached to the engine.

I don't find this information with the search function.

Thank you!!

 
Don't use straps around the engine, as that is unsafe as the engine can fall out of the straps. Make sure you lift the engine securely always from the top, not from the bottom!!!

 
Thank you Midlife!

Do you mean lifting the engine by the intake manifold by using the srews of the carb?

 
I have used the intake plate adapter with no problems. I have also used straps making sure that I protected the straps at the edges of the block.

Edit: as said it is safer to pull from the top.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk

 
Last edited by a moderator:
:thankyouyellow:

I already have a load leveler and i will buy a carburetor lift plate.

 
carb lift plate and just the chain on the engine hoist and maybe a friend to help keep it clear of the car and it will come right out, as long as everything is disconnected.

 
I have taken my engine out twice using the eye bracket connected to the exhaust manifolds and with the toploader still connected. I don't have headers to worry about, but I wish I'd bought a load leveler. If you do it this way, make sure the chains don't damage the valve cover if still on. Just make sure EVERYTHING is out the way. I even went as far as removing the front bumper as the hoist I borrowed was only a 1 ton and really too small for the job.

Also use a plug on the tailstock and TAPE IT IN!! ask me why?? if you're going  to pull it all at once.

 
I have taken my engine out twice using the eye bracket connected to the exhaust manifolds and with the toploader still connected. I don't have headers to worry about, but I wish I'd bought a load leveler. If you do it this way, make sure the chains don't damage the valve cover if still on. Just make sure EVERYTHING is out the way. I even went as far as removing the front bumper as the hoist I borrowed was only a 1 ton and really too small for the job.

Also use a plug on the tailstock and TAPE IT IN!! ask me why?? if you're going  to pull it all at once.
Great information Stanglover, thank you.

My hoist is a 2 ton and the front bumper is already removed so no problems... :whistling:

 
Wouldn't that be too much wait with the transmission and all accessories to lift it using a carburetor adapter plate?
That's a good question…

I will lift the engine only without gearbox , headers and accessories.

When seeing the carburetor adapter plate with the 4 small bolts, it's hard to believe i will lift the engine by hanging it at this small piece of metal... :chin: :chin: 

But I'm not the first and not the last to do that!!

 
I cannot remember the yield strength of 1/4" bolts like the carb. has. Look up on the net. You could probably pick the whole car up with one, lol.

As a point of reference. A friend of mine built a Pitts Special Stunt plane. The blue prints called for I believe 4 1/4" grade 8 bolts to secure the Lycoming 360 C.I. engine onto the air frame, lol. This plane has a design for pulling 6 G's. When the plane is in the air especially when doing a vertical climb to stall is hanging by those 4 bolts. Charlie changed them to 5/16" just to be sure.

The engine lift brackets were one of the first things people left off because you do bend your valve covers unless you have another lift bracket made to hook into the factory lifting brackets.

It is far safer to have an A frame with a chain hoist than the jerky engine hoists with hydraulic cylinder. You can move very slow with the chain fall and A frame. A balanced is a no brainier.

I have both and if I was putting engine in a restored car would for sure use the A frame and chain fall. You do need a blanket to let the chain fall onto.

Was watching one of the TV car shows and something bumped the bleed valve on the hydraulic engine lift and it fell on the radiator support and frame. Days of work to repair.

Once I was pulling engine with the A frame and chain fall and I thought WOW the front springs on this car are really coming up. I finally looked and I had front tire off the floor. I had forgot to unhook ground strap and had picked the weight of the car up with one of those 5/16" screws into the firewall of that car.

I would put pic of A frame and chain fall but brother in law borrowed to work on tractor and has not returned. I will probably have to go get as usual.

 
WOW, very impressive.

Thank you for sharing this experience.

 
Nice tips in this thread...

Pinged @Don C not long ago for tips and abouts to place back a 429 alone...

An A frame sounds a good plan for this wide baby.

I recall once getting it out and back in with 3 people how that went using straps around the engine mounts.

Much harder than my cleveland, especially with the headers in 3 pieces that need to be inserted while engine is going down few inches before engine mounts are aligned.

Having it aligned with the C6 was also much fun.

Called 2 places renting the hardware, only straps, as the equipment reflects the cars we have here most... say small and lightweight 4 cyl engines. So there is no real need for muscle.

While searching, found a nice place here where I will be able buy what I need (and much more)

For the dutchies/benelux, bookmark that one!

https://www.vocor.nl

 
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