Has anyone heard of the FiTech PAC EFI unit?

[tony-muscle]

Just for the heck of it, if you're going to run an MSD I would first use FiTech timing control only, then after running for a while, connect the MSD, just to see if there is any noticeable difference. Even though they're not using variable dwell control it may not need it. It's not like points where they have to stay open just because of the cam and required gap, which shortens the dwell time, and they probably already provide maximum dwell time.

Yes.... once i do it i want to take one step at the time. It wont be until summer.

I will first rebuild the carb, run it carbed for a little and then go to EFI..... one step at a time. I will keep the carb and original ignition around. That way I would know all is working well in case i want or need to revert.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[MeZapU]

I just purchased their $800 400hp GoStreet system and their Fuel Command Center for my F-100. It does not have timing control but I dont care. I have my distributor curved just the way I like it and I'm already running a MSD ignition. Backordered until the end of April!

Holley is due to release a comparable system soon to try and get their foot in the door of the cheap $999 EFI system market. Looks surprisingly similar to the FiTech unit.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_injection/sniper_efi/

 

[Mister 4x4]

There are a couple of great articles in the new issue of Mustang Monthly, installing a FAST multiport in a '73 Mach 1, and Holley TBI in an older model.

If you don't already have it, you might pick up a copy and check it out.

 

[tony-muscle]

There are a couple of great articles in the new issue of Mustang Monthly, installing a FAST multiport in a '73 Mach 1, and Holley TBI in an older model.

If you don't already have it, you might pick up a copy and check it out.

Not to get off too much in a tangent, how do you like the Mustang Monthly magazine. I have been contemplating subscribing to it. Are there enough articles about the classic mustangs?

 

[Mister 4x4]

Yeah... about that. :whistling: :shootself: :angel:

OK - without re-opening the can of worms [as I did this time last year], Mustang Monthly is full of lots of good information about classic Mustangs... if you like Mustang IIs and '70-and-older Classic Mustangs, that is. The new editor Rob Kinnan (of course, he's been there about a year, so the newness has worn off) loves M-IIs, and continues the tradition of barely acknowledging the existence of '71-'73s. He logged onto this site and made the promise that more '71-'73 coverage was coming, and I suppose he wasn't lying because there were 3 articles mentioning '71-'73s last year, as opposed to the traditional 2. It is what it is.

If you like '67 fastbacks, Shelbys, and '65s with pizza-cutter wheels, subscribe now! Otherwise, I'd pick up a couple of issues from a book store or read their online content (by month, of course).

 

[tony-muscle]

Reopening my old thread. I have read about a lot of problems with FiTech's Fuel Command Center. I order it two months ago but it has been in backorder for a long time. I think they are redesigning it to take care of the issue with fuel return. Now I have been reading about the RobbMc Powersurge pump/tank system, http://www.robbmcperformance.com/products/powersurge.html

This one has great reviews and is cheaper than the FCC. I am considering canceling my FCC order and purchasing the RobbMc.

Any experience with the RobbMc Powersurge?

 

[sasquatch20]

No experience with the FCC or other surge tank, but I did install a Go Street 400hp unit on my dune buggy last spring and have been very impressed with it so far. It pulls better down low and in the mid range and seems to give me more on the top end (it used to be maxed out around 4500 RPM or so and now pulls strong to around 5000-5500). I installed a tank with a sump and an inline fuel pump and that works great (I realize that's not as easy on a car, but wanted to mention what i'm working with ).

 

[Mister 4x4]

My Edelbrock E-Street supports returnless, but you have to buy a surge tank as well - the hardest part IMHO is where the heck to put the surge tank (I'm thinking about relocating the windshield washer reservoir to the firewall or somewhere else.

I ain't gonna lie - it's pretty pricey... especially, since it's still in the box in the garage. :whistling:

 

[tony-muscle]

I think the ideal location is by the charcoal camister. You will have to remove or relocate. My idea is to remove the charcoal canister and use the vent line for the surge pump - it needs one. I am thinking then to vent the tank in the back just in case the vent line gets to much fuel in it.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[Mister 4x4]

The surge pump is pretty big - it holds a gallon of fuel... and I'm not sure right above the header is the best place for it.

Besides, I think it's so tall, the hood hinge might whack it.

I guess I could make a heat shield or something... :chin:

 

[71XR7VERT]

Back in the 90s I put a Holley projection TBI system on a dodge 360 engine. Worked out pretty well, got to think these newer ones are much better.

Now I just use the factory set up from my donor vehicle and make all the wiring changes rather than go with an add on system. But I can see these being quite useful where you want to keep a non fuel injection engine .

 

[Outrider4]

I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

 

[turtle5353]

I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

Did you use comp cams hydraulic roller lifters for your build?? if you did, make sure to keep an eye on them and listen for any tapping. I had 3 separate COMP lifters collapse on me this summer. I just pulled ALL of them and sent the whole kit back to comp. Waiting to hear back what they have to say about it. Been a lot of bad press going around the net about their hydraulic roller lifters!!! Good Luck. I have a set of Lunati or Isky lined up for mine.

 

[Outrider4]

I searched the forum and can't find anyone writing about the PAC FiTech EFI unit.

http://paceperformance.com/i-22321653-pac-30002-600-hp-efi-master-package-with-fuel-pump.html

It is said to be a self-contained and self-learning TBI. The ECU is built-in the throttle body so you need very few wires to install this thing. Overall seems very easy to install. Searching in the internet I read excellent reviews. The only negatives are questions in regards to reliability due to the ECU being exposed to the engine heat, specially when the car is turned off. In this case maybe a plastic spacer should help. Only time will tell on that one. The ECU unit could also be programmed to work with the timing.

I am not sold into the idea of running EFI, but after seeing this system at a decent price, a part of me is feeling more compelled. Not right now, but perhaps in a near future. It just sounds like a cool mod that gives you a lot of control of timing and A/F. I didn't find dyno information.

Here is a thread that shows the installation in a Corvette:

http://www.corvetteforum.com/forums/c3-tech-performance/3670852-fitech-go-efi-review.html#post1589890693

Edit: for whatever is worth I found one Dyno comparison and 441 LS7. The HP and Torque are very close except in the mid range where the EFI unit was a tad ahead. The low end appears to be a tad better too, which make sense due to what I expect to give better fuel atomization at the low end.

http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech%20(http://forums.maxperformanceinc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=774336&highlight=Fitech)

I just had my 351C refreshed (ok rebuilt). I replaced the old flat tappet cam and valve train with Comp Cam roller cam and valve train. Replaced the intake with Edelbrock Performer manifold. On top went with FiTech EFI4 and rather than run EF Pump from tank I opted for FiTechs Fuel Control Center. All went well except the way the FCC was mounted. The unit was mounted on the left fender well where the windshield washer res was.....problem...it was mounted on an angle...FCC per INSTRUCTIONS needs to be mounted VERTICAL or very near vertical....why....it won't allow proper venting to tank return since it operates with an internal float system. FIX: Installed spacers to position tank properly. Engine still in break in but runs great. Best tip: Read and Follow Instructions.....this is not a carb.....good luck

Did you use comp cams hydraulic roller lifters for your build?? if you did, make sure to keep an eye on them and listen for any tapping. I had 3 separate COMP lifters collapse on me this summer. I just pulled ALL of them and sent the whole kit back to comp. Waiting to hear back what they have to say about it. Been a lot of bad press going around the net about their hydraulic roller lifters!!! Good Luck. I have a set of Lunati or Isky lined up for mine.

Thanks for the warning...I'll be on the lookout

 

[Outrider4]

The more I read about this system, the more I like it. They claim to use all GM OEM sensors and a Bosch O2 sensor. I would be happier if the warranty was longer than 1 year.

I also wanted to know if this would work with a Mallory Unilite distributor I picked up, recently.

Basstrix, did you ever receive an answer concerning the Malory distributor? That's exactly what I have. Thanks.

I have had a Mallory Unilite distributor on engine for years with Jacobs coil and wiring and yes I just installed a FiTech EFI4 TB. So far during engine break in it has worked together flawlessly. This car is driver and is not for drag racing.

 

[Outrider4]

Just for the heck of it, if you're going to run an MSD I would first use FiTech timing control only, then after running for a while, connect the MSD, just to see if there is any noticeable difference. Even though they're not using variable dwell control it may not need it. It's not like points where they have to stay open just because of the cam and required gap, which shortens the dwell time, and they probably already provide maximum dwell time.

Yes.... once i do it i want to take one step at the time. It won't be until summer.

I will first rebuild the carb, run it carbed for a little and then go to EFI..... one step at a time. I will keep the carb and original ignition around. That way I would know all is working well in case i want or need to revert.

1971 M-code Mach 1

That is very smart thinking. I installed my EFI but still have the old carb in the box that the TB came in.....have a great day

 

[Outrider4]

I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

Thanks

 

[turtle5353]

I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

Thanks

For a c4 or c6 the kickdown rod is only utilized when passing. Or when you jump on the gas in high gear. If you put the car in drive without the kickdown hooked up it will shift normally through the gears.  If you want it to downshift by itself from high gear to 2nd you will need to hook up the kickdown. If you don't mind doing it yourself you can leave it off. It will not hurt the trans. I have never had my hooked up on my car for the past 12 years or so.

 

[Outrider4]

I have a FiTech EFI4 installed on my 71 351C with a EB Performer manifold. I have a C6 with a shift kit. Does anyone have a setup like this and if so were you able to connect the transmission kickdown rod without issues?? I have had a problem and am looking into getting a Lokar kickdown cable...problem is that they don't make a bracket (manifold mounted) to attach the cable to for routing cable down to transmission. Any ideas or solutions ? I suppose I could just shift it manually....hmm

Thanks

For a c4 or c6 the kickdown rod is only utilized when passing. Or when you jump on the gas in high gear. If you put the car in drive without the kickdown hooked up it will shift normally through the gears.  If you want it to downshift by itself from high gear to 2nd you will need to hook up the kickdown. If you don't mind doing it yourself you can leave it off. It will not hurt the trans. I have never had my hooked up on my car for the past 12 years or so.

Now that you mention it I never used much at all for passing. I think its time to retire the kick down rod and box it up for the next owner....unless my wife buries me in the car when I pass away. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[vozaday]

Looks like I'll be joining the FiTech crowd. Put in my order tonight.