Heater core hose?

[PeteG41]

As you guys can see, I’ve been blowing the forum up since I joined, just trying to get the knowledge. After doing the sending unit yesterday, I kind of started poking around under the hood. Replaced some screw plugged vacuum lines with actual caps, and just a little looking around since she’s still new to me. Came across this. I want to say it goes to the heater core, because I saw a coolant line running back into the block in a loop and this thing is beyond corroded. Am I correct on this? Also, this canister. I want to guess it is an A/C component, which isn’t hooked up, but again just a guess.

 

[71ProjectJunk]

The canister is an early emission device called the charcoal canister. There is a line that runs from the fuel tank to that canister and then there was a line that ran from the canister to the air cleaner that you no longer have. The other hose looks to be the one that goes to the heater core.

 

[PeteG41]

The canister is an early emission device called the charcoal canister. There is a line that runs from the fuel tank to that canister and then there was a line that ran from the canister to the air cleaner that you no longer have. The other hose looks to be the one that goes to the heater core.

Awesome thank you. I remember coming across that canister in a thread but couldn’t remember what it was for. Do I need to cap off that open port on the canister or just leave it be?

 

[71ProjectJunk]

You can leave it be, do not cap it. That is where the fumes from the gas tank would come out and get sucked into the air cleaner and burned.

 

[DAverkamp]

As you guys can see, I’ve been blowing the forum up since I joined, just trying to get the knowledge. After doing the sending unit yesterday, I kind of started poking around under the hood. Replaced some screw plugged vacuum lines with actual caps, and just a little looking around since she’s still new to me. Came across this. I want to say it goes to the heater core, because I saw a coolant line running back into the block in a loop and this thing is beyond corroded. Am I correct on this? Also, this canister. I want to guess it is an A/C component, which isn’t hooked up, but again just a guess.

This may help you. I have the AC fittings capped off, and I painted the vapor canister Royal Blue from “Infantry” Blue but I’m kinda of wishing I didn’t as I miss those days more and more as this world turns… I would advise to take out the shock tower brace(s) / (5mins) when doing your hoses, spark plugs, and everything else to work on (in thread joke) when you start dolling her up and looking closer at your new “dependent”.

 

[PeteG41]

This may help you. I have the AC fittings capped off, and I painted the vapor canister Royal Blue from “Infantry” Blue but I’m kinda of wishing I didn’t as I miss those days more and more as this world turns… I would advise to take out the shock tower brace(s) / (5mins) when doing your hoses, spark plugs, and everything else to work on (in thread joke) when you start dolling her up and looking closer at your new “dependent”.

Daaaang that’s clean! I’ll definitely be using this forum when it comes to figuring out what to cap off. It still has all of the AC components on, definitely not functional, and the belts are off. But why carry around dead weight.

 

[PeteG41]

You can leave it be, do not cap it. That is where the fumes from the gas tank would come out and get sucked into the air cleaner and burned.

Thank you! I’m assuming based on the condition of the hose the heater core is shot, but being as summer in Phoenix just started I’ll come back to that in about 8 months

 

[DAverkamp]

Thank you! I’m assuming based on the condition of the hose the heater core is shot, but being as summer in Phoenix just started I’ll come back to that in about 8 months

Pete, don’t assume the core is shot! Verify first. Dry rotted hoses only show its not been well maintained. IMO… first step is what your doing. Hit list on what you see… then get bumper to bumper analysis when you find a local hotrod shop that sounds trustworthy when you look them in the eye. Then.. feel free to run it past all the gurus on here promoting and coaching you to success so you don’t run into a buzzsaw and piss away $ and unspent driving time learning the “hard-way”. I know she’s like love at first site and you wanna do it all rite now…

1st things 1st: handling, (and not a “racer guy” steering wheel), and then.. whoa-ing her down when stopping is needed…
and then onto the other part of the thrill of driving with confidence, and that you don’t become a tow truck causality.

 

[Jcloutier0722]

Pete, maybe I missed it but what engine is under the hood? As your tearing into this, I have an all original 72 that I can get clean pics when you need it for other purposes if the engine is not the 302.

 

[Sheriff41]

He has a 351C based on his oil sender thread.

 

[Hemikiller]

The brass fitting is the water flow control valve for the AC system. When the climate control is placed into the AC setting, vacuum is applied to the valve, which closes and stops the flow of hot water to the heat core. You can cap it for now, or loop the hoses at the block.

 

[mrgmhale]

As you guys can see, I’ve been blowing the forum up since I joined, just trying to get the knowledge. After doing the sending unit yesterday, I kind of started poking around under the hood. Replaced some screw plugged vacuum lines with actual caps, and just a little looking around since she’s still new to me. Came across this. I want to say it goes to the heater core, because I saw a coolant line running back into the block in a loop and this thing is beyond corroded. Am I correct on this? Also, this canister. I want to guess it is an A/C component, which isn’t hooked up, but again just a guess.

 

[mrgmhale]

I am on the road until this evening. Please tell me your year and engine size for your Mustang and I will get you some vacuums dramatics and information about the fuel evaporator system and the charcoal canister that you were asking about. Also please tell me what transmission you have, automatic or manual

 

[mrgmhale]

You can leave it be, do not cap it. That is where the fumes from the gas tank would come out and get sucked into the air cleaner and burned.

I have schematics and drawings for the fuel Evaporative system that I will send to you through this form once I’m at our hotel this evening

 

[PeteG41]

Pete, don’t assume the core is shot! Verify first. Dry rotted hoses only show its not been well maintained. IMO… first step is what your doing. Hit list on what you see… then get bumper to bumper analysis when you find a local hotrod shop that sounds trustworthy when you look them in the eye. Then.. feel free to run it past all the gurus on here promoting and coaching you to success so you don’t run into a buzzsaw and piss away $ and unspent driving time learning the “hard-way”. I know she’s like love at first site and you wanna do it all rite now…

1st things 1st: handling, (and not a “racer guy” steering wheel), and then.. whoa-ing her down when stopping is needed…
and then onto the other part of the thrill of driving with confidence, and that you don’t become a tow truck causality.

I apologize in advance for the long post! Luckily I have a shop I totally trust less than a mile down the street. Family owned place and they really took care of the things I couldn’t do when I had my 78 f-150. I take my 05 there as well, they just finished a full timing job on it for me. It was a debacle, since a phaser pin sheared off 30 miles after I got it back. But they tore right back into it the next day, replaced everything and it was all under shop warranty. They probably ate 20+ hours of labor, since they had to take the front cover back off, it but a very trustworthy place. I actually talked to them this morning. Once I get tires I’m going to take it there and let them look it over. I sure it’s going to need all front end components, ball joints etc. the previous owner had all of the brakes redone, which I believe based on the new master and the pedal is firm. I’ll obviously get a better understanding when I’m not grannying it around the block.

 

[PeteG41]

The brass fitting is the water flow control valve for the AC system. When the climate control is placed into the AC setting, vacuum is applied to the valve, which closes and stops the flow of hot water to the heat core. You can cap it for now, or loop the hoses at the block.

View attachment 63892

Thank you for the picture! Yep currently the hoses are looped so the system is completely bypassed.

 

[PeteG41]

I am on the road until this evening. Please tell me your year and engine size for your Mustang and I will get you some vacuums dramatics and information about the fuel evaporator system and the charcoal canister that you were asking about. Also please tell me what transmission you have, automatic or manual

That would be much appreciated! 73, 351c and auto trans.

 

[PeteG41]

Pete, maybe I missed it but what engine is under the hood? As your tearing into this, I have an all original 72 that I can get clean pics when you need it for other purposes if the engine is not the 302.

That would be fantastic. It’s the 351c. Most of my “mechanic” skills if you even want to call them that, are from working on a 300 6. Extremely easy, so for now I’m a little out of my element with this but I’ll learn!

 

[mrgmhale]

That would be much appreciated! 73, 351c and auto trans.

I hope the attached file helps you out. The various vacuum schematics differ depending on if you have a 2v or 4c 351C, and if you have an auto or manual tranny. I also have some YouTube video posts that may help with the fuel evaporative system. The fuel evap systems are pretty much the same for all 71-73 Mustangs. The videos are of our 73 Mustang vert.






In the attached PDF file see pager 18-20 for the fuel evaporative system, and pages 69 (Mustang 2v), 75 (Mustang 4v, manual tranny), and 76 (Mustang 4v auto tranny)

 

[PeteG41]

I hope the attached file helps you out. The various vacuum schematics differ depending on if you have a 2v or 4c 351C, and if you have an auto or manual tranny. I also have some YouTube video posts that may help with the fuel evaporative system. The fuel evap systems are pretty much the same for all 71-73 Mustangs. The videos are of our 73 Mustang vert.






In the attached PDF file see pager 18-20 for the fuel evaporative system, and pages 69 (Mustang 2v), 75 (Mustang 4v, manual tranny), and 76 (Mustang 4v auto tranny)

Awesome, thank you!!