Help chosing from disc brake conversion options

[Mr_C]

I have a 71 convertible with a 351c 2v and factory drum brakes. The car has a lot of miles on it, and I am in the process of doing a restro mod to improve performance and make it a good driver. I am just starting going through the front suspension, and having a hard time deciding where to go with brakes. I want to get the handling/braking taken care of before I start working on HP. My goal with this car is more cruise-worthiness than all out race.

I am seeing numerous different choices, and having a hard time deciding. I did some searching here but didn't find what I needed. I am hoping you guys can shed some light on it. Part of my problem is I am cheap, so I hate to spend money on something that isn't better, but am ok with spending more if it is truly better and worth it. Also, I have a set of 17" Wheels, so rotor size shouldn't be an issue.

Here are some of the options that I have been looking at-

- Cheap-

$475 - ebay kit with separate spindle/rotor, fits 14" wheels, small rotor and mediocre caliper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200919660365?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

- Mid-line -

$600 - Summit racing conversion, fits most 15" wheels, 4 piston calipers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1226

- Slightly better?-

$800 - Master power kit, Fits most 14" wheels. Uses 4 piston calipers used on Shelby mustangs, 11.25" rotors.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/1971-ford-mustang-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit-legend-series?filter_name=

- Best -

$1000 - Wilwood 140-12945, Requires 16"+ wheels, 6 piston calipers, 12.2" rotors

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-12945

Any feedback would be great, I am sure I many of you have had to make a similar decisions. I am also open to any other options not mentioned.

 

[Doug The Dog]

I'm doing a very similar restomod to my 73 convertible. I highly recommend SSBC (Stainless Steel Brake Corp) available at National Parts Depot in Ventura, CA (Talk to Dane). SSBC makes conversion kits (Front and Rear) that will accommodate the factory 14" or 15" wheels, and at a reasonable price. As far as your suspension goes.... Talk to John at OpenTracker Racing Products up in Carmel Valley, CA. He and his wife, Shari are awesome! I have a few threads floating around with pictures of the components I've installed on mine. Check them out!

Good luck!

 

[OMS]

I have a 71 convertible with a 351c 2v and factory drum brakes. The car has a lot of miles on it, and I am in the process of doing a restro mod to improve performance and make it a good driver. I am just starting going through the front suspension, and having a hard time deciding where to go with brakes. I want to get the handling/braking taken care of before I start working on HP. My goal with this car is more cruise-worthiness than all out race.

I am seeing numerous different choices, and having a hard time deciding. I did some searching here but didn't find what I needed. I am hoping you guys can shed some light on it. Part of my problem is I am cheap, so I hate to spend money on something that isn't better, but am ok with spending more if it is truly better and worth it. Also, I have a set of 17" Wheels, so rotor size shouldn't be an issue.

Here are some of the options that I have been looking at-

- Cheap-

$475 - ebay kit with separate spindle/rotor, fits 14" wheels, small rotor and mediocre caliper. http://www.ebay.com/itm/200919660365?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

- Mid-line -

$600 - Summit racing conversion, fits most 15" wheels, 4 piston calipers.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-bk1226

- Slightly better?-

$800 - Master power kit, Fits most 14" wheels. Uses 4 piston calipers used on Shelby mustangs, 11.25" rotors.

http://www.mpbrakes.com/1971-ford-mustang-front-disc-brake-conversion-kit-legend-series?filter_name=

- Best -

$1000 - Wilwood 140-12945, Requires 16"+ wheels, 6 piston calipers, 12.2" rotors

http://www.wilwood.com/BrakeKits/BrakeKitsProdFront.aspx?itemno=140-12945

Any feedback would be great, I am sure I many of you have had to make a similar decisions. I am also open to any other options not mentioned.

Another option is a disc set up off a parts car

I sell the spindles, prop valve, pedal, booster and M/C, calipers all brackets - usually consider M/C and calipers cores

This lets you use standard Ford parts from any parts store

Depending on condition 250.00 and up

 

[wwhite72]

I also have Opentracker parts on my car. Very good people to do biz with. As for brakes i can mention that after i bought my car i had dropped a ton on a new vert top installation and tires, as well as some engine parts. so i tried to improve the factory brakes before replacing the system. New rotors, high quality pads, stainless steel lines all around, new rear brake cylndrs, springs and shoes. I was impressed how much better the OEM system worked. not a new 4 piston set up, but worked a LOT better. not enough for autocross but works for street driving. Put it in reverse, backup to 20mph and stomp the brakes. rears adjust fine!

 

[Mister 4x4]

^^^ What Don said. Probably the most economical way forward, and you're using actual Ford parts that will be available at just about every parts store when it comes time to replace the consumables. Beats waiting on mail-order for Wilwoods or something else not normally sold locally.

 

[cazsper]

I went with Bear Brakes on the front of my '68 and love them. I have Wilwoods on the rear because the were less expensive and I like their E-brake setup.

I heard of this place called Vintage Venom. They sell brackets so you can use modern Mustang Cobra brakes on the older cars. It's worth looking into.

 

[caspianwendell]

I am going with factory spindles and upgraded rotors and calipers

 

[turtle5353]

I went the route don mentioned. I got the whole setup from a 72 convertible and it was an easy bolt on with all ford parts and it works great!

 

[OMS]

I have a couple of sets

Have a nice set with good rotors

I would consider the booster, M/C and calipers cores for rebuilding or replacement.

Here are some pics

 

[imusa76]

I have a couple of sets

Have a nice set with good rotors

I would consider the booster, M/C and calipers cores for rebuilding or replacement.

Here are some pics

Don,

now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?

I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.

I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

 

[OMS]

Yes pedal is different

 

[tempestairbrush]

I would also use stock parts on the front for a disc conversion its the best deal for the money also....

As for the rear if your trying to go aftermarket disc brakes I've raced circle track for years now and have used a kit like the one listed below on a 9 inch ford. I put two different kits first one is non e brake and the second one comes with the Ebrake calipers. The rear calipers used are stock 78-81 metric brakes so you can order any brake pads off any trans am from those years, but the rotors are slotted for both the ford 5 on 4-1/2" and chevy 5 on 4-3/4 bolt pattens. The only other thing you should need for a rear disc conversion is the adjustable proportuning valve to balance out your brakes while driving. Just twist the knob one way or another and it will either add or tak away some rear brake to get a more balanced out feeling. Speedway motors also has a knowledgable tech line so any further questions on what works best with what you have they may be able to help you.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-9-Inch-Bolt-On-Rear-Disc-Brake-Kit,5336.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Ford-9-Inch-Bolt-On-Rear-Disc-Brake-Kit-w-E-Brake,35268.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Adjustable-Proportioning-Blocks-With-Brake-Light-Switch,6160.html

 

[matrixx]

I have a couple of sets

Have a nice set with good rotors

I would consider the booster, M/C and calipers cores for rebuilding or replacement.

Here are some pics

Don,

now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?

I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.

I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I am curious to this as well, Could I use a manual disc setup as I'd rather have better stoping power without going through all the pedal, M/C, booster stuff.

Could we just swap out the spindles and use the disc hardware and leave everything from the brake line to M/C as is or does the disc NEED power assist to operate?

 

[turtle5353]

I have a couple of sets

Have a nice set with good rotors

I would consider the booster, M/C and calipers cores for rebuilding or replacement.

Here are some pics

Don,

now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?

I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.

I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I am curious to this as well, Could I use a manual disc setup as I'd rather have better stoping power without going through all the pedal, M/C, booster stuff.

Could we just swap out the spindles and use the disc hardware and leave everything from the brake line to M/C as is or does the disc NEED power assist to operate?

I am running manual disc brakes on my 71 for a couple years now and they work great. WAY better than the manual drums!! I left everything alone except the spindles and brakes. Hard Lines,MC,prop valve, all the same still and works well. I am even running disc brakes in the rear and havent had any trouble. I do have the pedal assembly, booster and MC to put on one of these winters. Just havent got that far.

Also for cheap rear disc brakes dont forget about the ford 8.8 from an explorer. If you have some fab skills its an easy swap. I got 3.73 gears, posi, and disc brakes all in one shot.

 

[matrixx]

Don,

now with this setup what about the brake pedal, is it different between manual drum, and power disc?

I'm asking because I was thinking next year upgrading the brakes to manual front disc, and I like the Idea of keeping with the Ford parts for the consumable purpose.

I currently have 4 wheel manual drum brakes.

I am curious to this as well, Could I use a manual disc setup as I'd rather have better stoping power without going through all the pedal, M/C, booster stuff.

Could we just swap out the spindles and use the disc hardware and leave everything from the brake line to M/C as is or does the disc NEED power assist to operate?

I am running manual disc brakes on my 71 for a couple years now and they work great. WAY better than the manual drums!! I left everything alone except the spindles and brakes. Hard Lines,MC,prop valve, all the same still and works well. I am even running disc brakes in the rear and havent had any trouble. I do have the pedal assembly, booster and MC to put on one of these winters. Just havent got that far.

Also for cheap rear disc brakes dont forget about the ford 8.8 from an explorer. If you have some fab skills its an easy swap. I got 3.73 gears, posi, and disc brakes all in one shot.

well I have a 95 explorer sitting in back of my dads house with a blown 4.0. Either way thats pretty cool it makes this swap more interesting for me.

 

[turtle5353]

Well your lucky 95 was the first year for rear disc brakes in the explorer if I remember correctly.

 

[Mr_C]

Update:

I decided to go with the factory disc brakes, bought a complete setup from OMS. So far I am very happy with this decision. I put in stiffer, lowered springs, a bigger swaybar, new shocks, and new or good take off uppers, lowers and tie rods. I removed everything suspension related from my car and put none of it back on. I haven't done anything with the back end yet except put on the new wheels. I think I want to lower the back a little, but still have some rake to it. I haven't driven it a lot since I put it back together, but I do seem to have one squeak coming from the drivers side. I haven't gotten under it to figure out where it is coming from, but I am suspecting the swaybar bushing on the mount (not the endlink).

So far, I like how it is driving, it feels like a completely different car from before. It was a manual steering car, that has since been converted to power, so now I feel the need to put a smaller steering wheel on it (since now turning is so much more fun).

Here is what it looks like now-

 

[droptop73]

Looks great!

 

[adm22]

I did it to mine a long time ago. Got all the parts I tthought I needed off a really rusty car. Something I did not think of but needed was the proportioning valve. I dont recall all the details since this was 18 or so years ago but wound up having to weld something to the bit that comes through the firewall to the brake pedal to get it to fit.

I also used the calipers and master sylinder from the donor car as cores for new ones since no idea what shape they were in as well as buying new runner brake hoses and pads.

The last thing I recently learned you can do (but is not reuired for things to work) is replace the rubberish cover on the brake pedal with one that has a metal disc emblem embdded into it to signify the car has disc brakes.