Hot start troubleshooting

[Tucaz520]

Im willing to bet there are more cars on the road without those parts then there are with so im not gonna go hunting them down. Not doing a full restoration here. Just want a reliable driver.

 

[Tucaz520]

The idle speed is too high, it should be around 650 with a manual transmission and with an automatic transmission in drive. That will contribute to dieseling. You are using the correct procedure to check the timing, just need the idle speed lower.

What you are seeing sounds correct.

Thanks. Found my dads old chiltons maual from the 70s. Actually has some good info on setting the carb idle speeds and just saw that my idle is to high. Im gonna set everything back to where i started and go through the carb again.

 

[Tucaz520]

I was pulling the vacuum for the advance from the side of the carb and it seem its adavancing it to far. Can anyone with a 351c 2v confirm the source of vacuum for the advance?

 

[Tucaz520]

I think im going to set the timing back where it was and leave that vac adavance unhooked. I know for a fact it used to run strong and dependable that way. I will focus on the diesel and hot start issue first.

 

[Tucaz520]

Don C gets a beer.

Set the idle down and the diesel stopped fingers crossed it stays that way.

Brings me back to the hot start which im going to go ahead and start switching out ignition components.

Just for fun in gonna stay with points for now. Lol

 

[Don C]

Before switching out ignition components I would check the float level.

 

[TommyK]

See post #11. I still think it is a heat issue.

Show us what you did with your fuel line.

 

[Tucaz520]

Well i had a fun time today. Happy with the dieseling issue solved i decided to take the car to the parts store to pick up a coil,points and condenser. While it struggles a little to start when hot its never not started. But when its out of gas at a stop light it tends not to run lol. The fuel sending unit hasnt been working but i have been dumping in a couple gallons here and there.

Now what happens when you cross a car thats hard to start with running out of gas? A nearly dead battery in the left lane at a stop light lmao.

So i do the door open 1 man car push to get out of the road and nearly got hit several times. I guess the days of people pulling over to help push are long gone.

 

[Tucaz520]

Before switching out ignition components I would check the float level.

I had float issues in the beinning and swapped around a few parts. Old with new etc..... wont hurt to revisit that.

 

[Tucaz520]

See post #11. I still think it is a heat issue.

Show us what you did with your fuel line.

Didnt do anything other than use hands to bend it. At one point it was touching the head.

 

[TommyK]

Probably boiling fuel, vapor lock. The cure would be to run a carb spacer.

Hard cranking , check cables from the battery and to the starter and also have a good ground connection. Its a good place to start before we start spending your money.

See post #11. I still think it is a heat issue.

Show us what you did with your fuel line.

Didnt do anything other than use hands to bend it. At one point it was touching the head.

Then I would agree with Canted 393's advice and would add that you may want to consider a heat shield sleeve for the fuel line. However, before spending any money on parts you could try running one tank of race gas through it. Race gas has a higher boiling point than E10 gasoline. If the problem lessens or goes away completely with the race gas you have confirmed it is probably a fuel vapor issue.

 

[Tucaz520]

Ok. Took a break to tend to items on the honey do list and turned back to the mustang today  

Coil was changed= bo improvement.

1" carb spacer added today actually seemd to make things worse.

Dug into the carb a bit and replaced the needle and seat and adjusted the float which brought things back to where i was pre spacer.  But still hard to start when hot  

New question

when using the 1" spacer i had to remove the egr plate. Is there a need to plug the hole that is in the intake manifold under the carb?

Another new symptom  was absolutely horible power from idle tio 3000 rpm.  Is that a result of the spacer and carb tunning is needed?

 

[73pony]

Hole in intake manifold under carb? Do you have a pic?

 

[Vinnie]

I’d think every hole should be plugged...

 

[Tucaz520]

Hole in intake manifold under carb? Do you have a pic?

Didnt stop to take a pic.  But underneath the egr plate is a grove\channel that matches the egr plate. Mine was full of carbon that i used a small brush to clear out. In doing so i noticed that at one end of the grove there is a hole that goes through the intake manifold.

 

[Tucaz520]

Here is a pic i found on ebay.

I circled where the passeage goes throug the manifold.

 

[73pony]

Your plate and gasket should cover that up and not cause a vac leak.

 

[Tucaz520]

Points and condenser replaced and set.

Initial results seem to be positive.

On a side not i snagged an intake on craigslist so now i can play this game with a 4bbl lol

 

[Don C]

Here is a pic i found on ebay.  

I circled where the passeage goes throug the manifold.

Even though it's a moot point now that you're going 4 barrel, that is where the exhaust gas comes from to recirculate.

 

[Tucaz520]

Woooo hoooooooo

Points and condenser it was.(or one of he two) Road tested it stopped to put gas and it started right up.

Wanted to switch everything out one at a time but i had to pull the distributor to perform a little surgery to get the condener out. The screw was stripped way before my time so there was sone drilling and cussing involved. And since it was ou it made it so much easier to set the new points.

Thanks everyone for the input. Now that its road worthy ill wait a bit before going 4bbl . I got the intak for a steal so ill keep an eye out for a good deal on a carb too.