How to install a rear window on a 71-73 fastback

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72HCODE

"My World is Fire and Blood"
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Jul 4, 2010
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71 Mach 1.
(i'll fill in some pictures later when i find them)

About 4 or 5 years ago i replaced my rear window on my 72. The Seal around my window was totally shot and it was leaking badly. My Window had also been replaced with an incorrect defroster window from another fastback. In short somebody did a terrible job installing a replacement window and the car suffered for it.

I obtained a replacement Sun-X rear window without the defroster lines and went about installing it in my car.

Some tips:

Before you start take notes or pictures on how the seal is sitting on the car from the inside, look how far up the bottom part of the seal comes up on the body just take a close inspection. look how it sits on the Sail panels as well. Your looking to match the windows alignment when replacing the seal or window.

------------------------

1) pull the chrome off with a trim tool carefully its easy to bend.

If your installing Reproduction trim be even more careful reproduction window trim is thinner then OEM and even easier to bend.

2) Once that is out of the way get a blade and cut whats left of the rubber seal away from around the glass(easy and fun part), pull the cut seal away and lift the glass carefully, you may want somebody inside the car pushing the window up carefully so you can grab an edge. I would not reuse the seal, always replace it.

3) Messy time: Tear out the rest of the seal from the window ledge on the body. Start examining the window ledge, and the clips for the chrome trim and the rivets that hold the clips, see how far up the creak you are by the amount of rust.(you might get lucky you might not, if you find rust you could epoxy the holes and paint the area. replace any of the trim clips that hold the chrome that are rusted out, usually all of them. the clips have a green coating on them but they rust away very fast. clean up the ledge as best you can your original headliner may come away you will need to re-glue it. At this point your halfway to being able to install a new headliner, you will need to remove the front window to do it. There is special glue for the headliner, It is contact cement. The headliner is suppose to slightly wrap around the ledge just a bit, 1/4" max. the same with the Sail panels wrapping the material from the sides.

once your happy with your window ledge it is nice and clean and you patched any rust holes in it. its time to start the installation.

4) make sure you get a ford licensed seal for the rear window, do not go cheap.

5) On our fastbacks make sure you get or find the correct foam tape.

Contact our member 'hemikilller' for details, he sells the weather striping foam tape you need.

6) You put the foam tape on the windows ledge first do not cut the corners of the tape keep it continuous around the top of the window ledge, and try to have as few cuts as possible use sealer on the areas of the tape you need to cut like the bottom corners. The foam tape covers over the headliner that wraps around and covers most of the window ledge area. this is why you want to keep the wrap around of the headliner around 1/4" the foam tape sits half on the headliner and half on the window ledge making a continuous seal around the ledge.

7) Next, clean the Ford licensed rubber seal with soap and water, and make sure its clean and dry before you continue.

8) Clean the rear glass really well. Use a razor blade. Use some paint thinner to really scrub the glass clean. Make sure its free of any major oils or grease or dirt.

9) use a spare tire to hold the glass, and work the new rubber seal around the glass, do not use any silicon glue or sealer on it right now. it may help to use masking tape on the top of the glass to hold the rubber to the glass just do not wrap the tape around the edges. later on you will have to remove the masking tape completely. the rubber seal is just a real pain in the butt to keep from falling off so use your best judgment.

At this point your window ledge is prepped, and your window is prepped.

10) now your going to need to find Nylon rope or nylon covered rope, you can find this in Home depot as laundry lines, the reason is the nylon is a smooth surface and as you pull it around the rubber it will make your job way easy and won't mare the paint if it makes contact. about 1/4" round nylon rope should do.

Take the rope and insert it into the rubber seal in the flap that is around the window, leave about 3 feet worth of rope coming out both ends and tape the ends to the inside of the glass.

Next pick up the glass and lay it on the car.

11) Center the glass. It will not be easy use your, eye, fingers, measure tape, whatever to get it even side to side look from inside the car. Remember to compress the rubber to the glass when you take your measurements(i just eyeballed it. make sure you position the bottom of the seal how you remembered it originally(told you to keep notes)

that is your starting point making sure the window is up enough.

now take off your shoes and get into your cars back seat(so you don't mess up your interior when your fighting with the ropes)

11) Have a friend outside the car, and put a little pressure on the top of the glass, go easy, you have to work side to side. Shift pressure from the outside as needed. Starting from the bottom, pull the rope in towards you and also towards the center of the glass this is so your pulling the rubber flap inside the car and allowing it to wrap around the ledge and the headliner and sail panel trim. work a little at a time, with light pressure from the outside, tell your buddy to change positions left and right as you pull on the rope. You will finish at the top of the window in the center. The window will pull in towards the car about 1- 1.5" your buddy will be amazed at the feeling of the glass going in.

the seal will now be wrapped around the ledge with the foam and headliner sandwiched inside the rubber.

12) Dangerous part: Slap the glass around the seal to make sure its in, if you screw up the worst that will happen is the glass pops and breaks. you may feel the glass shift a little more you want that to happen so it has a good seal all around the ledge.

13) The glass will now be back in your car, check the rubber seal inside to make sure its sitting the way it was originally. If its not well too bad better luck next time. make sure headliner tucked itself nicely into the rubber seal.

The horror begins: Now your going to need to use 3m window sealant on the rubber seal.

14) Put masking tape all over the back of your car around the window.

you will need to protect the paint and make clean up easier.

15) Pull off any masking tape you used to hold the rubber seal to the window glass. Try to get the sealer between the rubber seal and the foam seal go all the way around, you may not be able to get the sealer under the bottom of the window(trunk area), which isn't so bad since the foam is there and gravity will pull the water away. Then go back and halfway fill the area of the seal to the body. DO NOT BE STINGY with the sealer, Fill that 1" gap right up to 1/8" before the tops of the trim clips.

About 2 hours into this your going to be begging somebody to kill you, but its not over,, after the outside of the seal is glued, you still need to go around the inside of the seal where the glass is. So like your making a cake with icing, lift the rubber against the glass and start going around the window full circle.

16) clean up the extra sealant mess with a blade and some lacquer thinner. Be careful with your paint. Carefully remove the masking tape you used to protect your paint during this messy process.

17) Let the window setup for 2 days in a warm garage, you can use a space heater if you do this in the winter, do not drive the car till the window glaze sealer sets up.

18) time to reinstall your chrome trim: work slow, use the the trim tool to pull the trim clips back a little from the body so you can get the lip for the trim in easier and with less pressure then trying to hammer it in with your palm. the trim is VERY easy to damage, I messed mine up a little bit putting it back on. so work your way around pulling the clips back with a trim tool and popping the trim down into place with as little pressure as possible. then finish up with the lower trim piece that screws into the lip above the trunk.

Word of caution:

The foam tape, once it goes down on the body its not coming off again so be VERY careful how you handle and align the tape. otherwise you will need to start over and get more tape. This is also a good time to change your sail panels if they are all rotted out.

Use LOTS of sealer. About 3 times as much as seems reasonable. Don't skimp because you are trying to be neat. You will be pulling that glass back out of there.

some thing I forgot to add:

This was something that nobody was really clear about.

After you have the foam tape down on the window ledge.

There is an argument on laying down window sealant on the bottom ledge where the trunk is, on-top of the foam tape before you lift the window into place. This part of the rubber seal does not have a flap like around the sides and top. The reason is once the window is in place you can not get sealer on that part of the window between the rubber and the foam the mount for the lower chrome trim is in the way.

The argument is putting sealer there first makes it harder to move the window into place and the sealer can start to smear all over the place on back window deck trim piece, the metal piece that goes under the window riveted to the deck.

Additionally you would need to get the window into place in the working time of the sealer and then quickly go around the window continuing with the sealer. After reading over and over that the window should go on the car dry, free of sealant, and also because i never did it before; I had the foam on the car and figured if i made a mistake and busted the glass the worst that would happen was me just removing the rubber seal from the body cleaning the broken glass out and starting again. Without having to worry about sealant drying on the body, and panicking on how to remove it without damage. In a perfect world it would be nice to have sealant there, but after taking 2 hours slowly working the window into the car body I was glad I didn't try to put the sealer on the bottom first, plus seeing the window sink down over an 1" onto the body and watching the foam compress, sort of told me I did the right thing in my case.

I think a team of glaziers that have done this before would disagree, but since this was my first time, and when it was done it was 1,000,000 times better then what was on the car before, I sort of didn't care.

I think if this is written into a manual on how to do it it should be included and let the reader decide how to approach it.

Interesting to note in the body assembly manual.

There is conflicting information: It stated that after the foam tape revision in mid 72, no sealant was to be used on the glass for sealing to the body. It was said the foam did the job. You were still suppose to seal the rubber to the glass however. I call Bollix on this you really need the sealant Plus the foam that window was born to leak in the rain.

A few months after it did my window I helped a friend with a 73 after his rear glass was broken when a bicycle fell from the storage area in his garage and broke the glass, when we removed the glass and rubber seal I noted that the foam was there but the rubber came right off the car like it had no sealant ever put on it.

I hope this doesn't confuse anyone, I defiantly think the glass needs sealant on the body and glass, but its hard to say if it will help or hurt you putting it on the lower part of the ledge before you start the install.

Good luck with your glass installation!

 

RocketFoot

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Nice tutorial! I too hope I never have to do this repair! LOL!

 
Joined
Feb 23, 2011
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Location
Santee, SC
My Car
72 Mach I Q code
61 Impala
67 Chevelle
78 Bradley GT II
(i'll fill in some pictures later when i find them)

About 4 or 5 years ago i replaced my rear window on my 72. The Seal around my window was totally shot and it was leaking badly. My Window had also been replaced with an incorrect defroster window from another fastback. In short somebody did a terrible job installing a replacement window and the car suffered for it.

I obtained a replacement Sun-X rear window without the defroster lines and went about installing it in my car.

Some tips:

Before you start take notes or pictures on how the seal is sitting on the car from the inside, look how far up the bottom part of the seal comes up on the body just take a close inspection. look how it sits on the Sail panels as well. Your looking to match the windows alignment when replacing the seal or window.

------------------------

1) pull the chrome off with a trim tool carefully its easy to bend.

If your installing Reproduction trim be even more careful reproduction window trim is thinner then OEM and even easier to bend.

2) Once that is out of the way get a blade and cut whats left of the rubber seal away from around the glass(easy and fun part), pull the cut seal away and lift the glass carefully, you may want somebody inside the car pushing the window up carefully so you can grab an edge. I would not reuse the seal, always replace it.

3) Messy time: Tear out the rest of the seal from the window ledge on the body. Start examining the window ledge, and the clips for the chrome trim and the rivets that hold the clips, see how far up the creak you are by the amount of rust.(you might get lucky you might not, if you find rust you could epoxy the holes and paint the area. replace any of the trim clips that hold the chrome that are rusted out, usually all of them. the clips have a green coating on them but they rust away very fast. clean up the ledge as best you can your original headliner may come away you will need to re-glue it. At this point your halfway to being able to install a new headliner, you will need to remove the front window to do it. There is special glue for the headliner, It is contact cement. The headliner is suppose to slightly wrap around the ledge just a bit, 1/4" max. the same with the Sail panels wrapping the material from the sides.

once your happy with your window ledge it is nice and clean and you patched any rust holes in it. its time to start the installation.

4) make sure you get a ford licensed seal for the rear window, do not go cheap.

5) On our fastbacks make sure you get or find the correct foam tape.

Contact our member 'hemikilller' for details, he sells the weather striping foam tape you need.

6) You put the foam tape on the windows ledge first do not cut the corners of the tape keep it continuous around the top of the window ledge, and try to have as few cuts as possible use sealer on the areas of the tape you need to cut like the bottom corners. The foam tape covers over the headliner that wraps around and covers most of the window ledge area. this is why you want to keep the wrap around of the headliner around 1/4" the foam tape sits half on the headliner and half on the window ledge making a continuous seal around the ledge.

7) Next, clean the Ford licensed rubber seal with soap and water, and make sure its clean and dry before you continue.

8) Clean the rear glass really well. Use a razor blade. Use some paint thinner to really scrub the glass clean. Make sure its free of any major oils or grease or dirt.

9) use a spare tire to hold the glass, and work the new rubber seal around the glass, do not use any silicon glue or sealer on it right now. it may help to use masking tape on the top of the glass to hold the rubber to the glass just do not wrap the tape around the edges. later on you will have to remove the masking tape completely. the rubber seal is just a real pain in the butt to keep from falling off so use your best judgment.

At this point your window ledge is prepped, and your window is prepped.

10) now your going to need to find Nylon rope or nylon covered rope, you can find this in Home depot as laundry lines, the reason is the nylon is a smooth surface and as you pull it around the rubber it will make your job way easy and won't mare the paint if it makes contact. about 1/4" round nylon rope should do.

Take the rope and insert it into the rubber seal in the flap that is around the window, leave about 3 feet worth of rope coming out both ends and tape the ends to the inside of the glass.

Next pick up the glass and lay it on the car.

11) Center the glass. It will not be easy use your, eye, fingers, measure tape, whatever to get it even side to side look from inside the car. Remember to compress the rubber to the glass when you take your measurements(i just eyeballed it. make sure you position the bottom of the seal how you remembered it originally(told you to keep notes)

that is your starting point making sure the window is up enough.

now take off your shoes and get into your cars back seat(so you don't mess up your interior when your fighting with the ropes)

11) Have a friend outside the car, and put a little pressure on the top of the glass, go easy, you have to work side to side. Shift pressure from the outside as needed. Starting from the bottom, pull the rope in towards you and also towards the center of the glass this is so your pulling the rubber flap inside the car and allowing it to wrap around the ledge and the headliner and sail panel trim. work a little at a time, with light pressure from the outside, tell your buddy to change positions left and right as you pull on the rope. You will finish at the top of the window in the center. The window will pull in towards the car about 1- 1.5" your buddy will be amazed at the feeling of the glass going in.

the seal will now be wrapped around the ledge with the foam and headliner sandwiched inside the rubber.

12) Dangerous part: Slap the glass around the seal to make sure its in, if you screw up the worst that will happen is the glass pops and breaks. you may feel the glass shift a little more you want that to happen so it has a good seal all around the ledge.

13) The glass will now be back in your car, check the rubber seal inside to make sure its sitting the way it was originally. If its not well too bad better luck next time. make sure headliner tucked itself nicely into the rubber seal.

The horror begins: Now your going to need to use 3m window sealant on the rubber seal.

14) Put masking tape all over the back of your car around the window.

you will need to protect the paint and make clean up easier.

15) Pull off any masking tape you used to hold the rubber seal to the window glass. Try to get the sealer between the rubber seal and the foam seal go all the way around, you may not be able to get the sealer under the bottom of the window(trunk area), which isn't so bad since the foam is there and gravity will pull the water away. Then go back and halfway fill the area of the seal to the body. DO NOT BE STINGY with the sealer, Fill that 1" gap right up to 1/8" before the tops of the trim clips.

About 2 hours into this your going to be begging somebody to kill you, but its not over,, after the outside of the seal is glued, you still need to go around the inside of the seal where the glass is. So like your making a cake with icing, lift the rubber against the glass and start going around the window full circle.

16) clean up the extra sealant mess with a blade and some lacquer thinner. Be careful with your paint. Carefully remove the masking tape you used to protect your paint during this messy process.

17) Let the window setup for 2 days in a warm garage, you can use a space heater if you do this in the winter, do not drive the car till the window glaze sealer sets up.

18) time to reinstall your chrome trim: work slow, use the the trim tool to pull the trim clips back a little from the body so you can get the lip for the trim in easier and with less pressure then trying to hammer it in with your palm. the trim is VERY easy to damage, I messed mine up a little bit putting it back on. so work your way around pulling the clips back with a trim tool and popping the trim down into place with as little pressure as possible. then finish up with the lower trim piece that screws into the lip above the trunk.

Word of caution:

The foam tape, once it goes down on the body its not coming off again so be VERY careful how you handle and align the tape. otherwise you will need to start over and get more tape. This is also a good time to change your sail panels if they are all rotted out.

Use LOTS of sealer. About 3 times as much as seems reasonable. Don't skimp because you are trying to be neat. You will be pulling that glass back out of there.

some thing I forgot to add:

This was something that nobody was really clear about.

After you have the foam tape down on the window ledge.

There is an argument on laying down window sealant on the bottom ledge where the trunk is, on-top of the foam tape before you lift the window into place. This part of the rubber seal does not have a flap like around the sides and top. The reason is once the window is in place you can not get sealer on that part of the window between the rubber and the foam the mount for the lower chrome trim is in the way.

The argument is putting sealer there first makes it harder to move the window into place and the sealer can start to smear all over the place on back window deck trim piece, the metal piece that goes under the window riveted to the deck.

Additionally you would need to get the window into place in the working time of the sealer and then quickly go around the window continuing with the sealer. After reading over and over that the window should go on the car dry, free of sealant, and also because i never did it before; I had the foam on the car and figured if i made a mistake and busted the glass the worst that would happen was me just removing the rubber seal from the body cleaning the broken glass out and starting again. Without having to worry about sealant drying on the body, and panicking on how to remove it without damage. In a perfect world it would be nice to have sealant there, but after taking 2 hours slowly working the window into the car body I was glad I didn't try to put the sealer on the bottom first, plus seeing the window sink down over an 1" onto the body and watching the foam compress, sort of told me I did the right thing in my case.

I think a team of glaziers that have done this before would disagree, but since this was my first time, and when it was done it was 1,000,000 times better then what was on the car before, I sort of didn't care.

I think if this is written into a manual on how to do it it should be included and let the reader decide how to approach it.

Interesting to note in the body assembly manual.

There is conflicting information: It stated that after the foam tape revision in mid 72, no sealant was to be used on the glass for sealing to the body. It was said the foam did the job. You were still suppose to seal the rubber to the glass however. I call Bollix on this you really need the sealant Plus the foam that window was born to leak in the rain.

A few months after it did my window I helped a friend with a 73 after his rear glass was broken when a bicycle fell from the storage area in his garage and broke the glass, when we removed the glass and rubber seal I noted that the foam was there but the rubber came right off the car like it had no sealant ever put on it.

I hope this doesn't confuse anyone, I defiantly think the glass needs sealant on the body and glass, but its hard to say if it will help or hurt you putting it on the lower part of the ledge before you start the install.

Good luck with your glass installation!
How about those pictures?

My glass was already removed when I got the car...no notes

trick from a glass pro...bend the clips out a bit, to make the chrome go in easier...it don't take much and you won't bend your chrome.

 
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
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Location
Pittsburgh, PA
My Car
1973 Mach 1 Q code 4 speed
1973 Chevelle 454 SS
2005 Magnum RT
2008 Colorado
(i'll fill in some pictures later when i find them)

About 4 or 5 years ago i replaced my rear window on my 72. The Seal around my window was totally shot and it was leaking badly. My Window had also been replaced with an incorrect defroster window from another fastback. In short somebody did a terrible job installing a replacement window and the car suffered for it.

I obtained a replacement Sun-X rear window without the defroster lines and went about installing it in my car.

Some tips:

Before you start take notes or pictures on how the seal is sitting on the car from the inside, look how far up the bottom part of the seal comes up on the body just take a close inspection. look how it sits on the Sail panels as well. Your looking to match the windows alignment when replacing the seal or window.

------------------------

1) pull the chrome off with a trim tool carefully its easy to bend.

If your installing Reproduction trim be even more careful reproduction window trim is thinner then OEM and even easier to bend.

2) Once that is out of the way get a blade and cut whats left of the rubber seal away from around the glass(easy and fun part), pull the cut seal away and lift the glass carefully, you may want somebody inside the car pushing the window up carefully so you can grab an edge. I would not reuse the seal, always replace it.

3) Messy time: Tear out the rest of the seal from the window ledge on the body. Start examining the window ledge, and the clips for the chrome trim and the rivets that hold the clips, see how far up the creak you are by the amount of rust.(you might get lucky you might not, if you find rust you could epoxy the holes and paint the area. replace any of the trim clips that hold the chrome that are rusted out, usually all of them. the clips have a green coating on them but they rust away very fast. clean up the ledge as best you can your original headliner may come away you will need to re-glue it. At this point your halfway to being able to install a new headliner, you will need to remove the front window to do it. There is special glue for the headliner, It is contact cement. The headliner is suppose to slightly wrap around the ledge just a bit, 1/4" max. the same with the Sail panels wrapping the material from the sides.

once your happy with your window ledge it is nice and clean and you patched any rust holes in it. its time to start the installation.

4) make sure you get a ford licensed seal for the rear window, do not go cheap.

5) On our fastbacks make sure you get or find the correct foam tape.

Contact our member 'hemikilller' for details, he sells the weather striping foam tape you need.

6) You put the foam tape on the windows ledge first do not cut the corners of the tape keep it continuous around the top of the window ledge, and try to have as few cuts as possible use sealer on the areas of the tape you need to cut like the bottom corners. The foam tape covers over the headliner that wraps around and covers most of the window ledge area. this is why you want to keep the wrap around of the headliner around 1/4" the foam tape sits half on the headliner and half on the window ledge making a continuous seal around the ledge.

7) Next, clean the Ford licensed rubber seal with soap and water, and make sure its clean and dry before you continue.

8) Clean the rear glass really well. Use a razor blade. Use some paint thinner to really scrub the glass clean. Make sure its free of any major oils or grease or dirt.

9) use a spare tire to hold the glass, and work the new rubber seal around the glass, do not use any silicon glue or sealer on it right now. it may help to use masking tape on the top of the glass to hold the rubber to the glass just do not wrap the tape around the edges. later on you will have to remove the masking tape completely. the rubber seal is just a real pain in the butt to keep from falling off so use your best judgment.

At this point your window ledge is prepped, and your window is prepped.

10) now your going to need to find Nylon rope or nylon covered rope, you can find this in Home depot as laundry lines, the reason is the nylon is a smooth surface and as you pull it around the rubber it will make your job way easy and won't mare the paint if it makes contact. about 1/4" round nylon rope should do.

Take the rope and insert it into the rubber seal in the flap that is around the window, leave about 3 feet worth of rope coming out both ends and tape the ends to the inside of the glass.

Next pick up the glass and lay it on the car.

11) Center the glass. It will not be easy use your, eye, fingers, measure tape, whatever to get it even side to side look from inside the car. Remember to compress the rubber to the glass when you take your measurements(i just eyeballed it. make sure you position the bottom of the seal how you remembered it originally(told you to keep notes)

that is your starting point making sure the window is up enough.

now take off your shoes and get into your cars back seat(so you don't mess up your interior when your fighting with the ropes)

11) Have a friend outside the car, and put a little pressure on the top of the glass, go easy, you have to work side to side. Shift pressure from the outside as needed. Starting from the bottom, pull the rope in towards you and also towards the center of the glass this is so your pulling the rubber flap inside the car and allowing it to wrap around the ledge and the headliner and sail panel trim. work a little at a time, with light pressure from the outside, tell your buddy to change positions left and right as you pull on the rope. You will finish at the top of the window in the center. The window will pull in towards the car about 1- 1.5" your buddy will be amazed at the feeling of the glass going in.

the seal will now be wrapped around the ledge with the foam and headliner sandwiched inside the rubber.

12) Dangerous part: Slap the glass around the seal to make sure its in, if you screw up the worst that will happen is the glass pops and breaks. you may feel the glass shift a little more you want that to happen so it has a good seal all around the ledge.

13) The glass will now be back in your car, check the rubber seal inside to make sure its sitting the way it was originally. If its not well too bad better luck next time. make sure headliner tucked itself nicely into the rubber seal.

The horror begins: Now your going to need to use 3m window sealant on the rubber seal.

14) Put masking tape all over the back of your car around the window.

you will need to protect the paint and make clean up easier.

15) Pull off any masking tape you used to hold the rubber seal to the window glass. Try to get the sealer between the rubber seal and the foam seal go all the way around, you may not be able to get the sealer under the bottom of the window(trunk area), which isn't so bad since the foam is there and gravity will pull the water away. Then go back and halfway fill the area of the seal to the body. DO NOT BE STINGY with the sealer, Fill that 1" gap right up to 1/8" before the tops of the trim clips.

About 2 hours into this your going to be begging somebody to kill you, but its not over,, after the outside of the seal is glued, you still need to go around the inside of the seal where the glass is. So like your making a cake with icing, lift the rubber against the glass and start going around the window full circle.

16) clean up the extra sealant mess with a blade and some lacquer thinner. Be careful with your paint. Carefully remove the masking tape you used to protect your paint during this messy process.

17) Let the window setup for 2 days in a warm garage, you can use a space heater if you do this in the winter, do not drive the car till the window glaze sealer sets up.

18) time to reinstall your chrome trim: work slow, use the the trim tool to pull the trim clips back a little from the body so you can get the lip for the trim in easier and with less pressure then trying to hammer it in with your palm. the trim is VERY easy to damage, I messed mine up a little bit putting it back on. so work your way around pulling the clips back with a trim tool and popping the trim down into place with as little pressure as possible. then finish up with the lower trim piece that screws into the lip above the trunk.

Word of caution:

The foam tape, once it goes down on the body its not coming off again so be VERY careful how you handle and align the tape. otherwise you will need to start over and get more tape. This is also a good time to change your sail panels if they are all rotted out.

Use LOTS of sealer. About 3 times as much as seems reasonable. Don't skimp because you are trying to be neat. You will be pulling that glass back out of there.

some thing I forgot to add:

This was something that nobody was really clear about.

After you have the foam tape down on the window ledge.

There is an argument on laying down window sealant on the bottom ledge where the trunk is, on-top of the foam tape before you lift the window into place. This part of the rubber seal does not have a flap like around the sides and top. The reason is once the window is in place you can not get sealer on that part of the window between the rubber and the foam the mount for the lower chrome trim is in the way.

The argument is putting sealer there first makes it harder to move the window into place and the sealer can start to smear all over the place on back window deck trim piece, the metal piece that goes under the window riveted to the deck.

Additionally you would need to get the window into place in the working time of the sealer and then quickly go around the window continuing with the sealer. After reading over and over that the window should go on the car dry, free of sealant, and also because i never did it before; I had the foam on the car and figured if i made a mistake and busted the glass the worst that would happen was me just removing the rubber seal from the body cleaning the broken glass out and starting again. Without having to worry about sealant drying on the body, and panicking on how to remove it without damage. In a perfect world it would be nice to have sealant there, but after taking 2 hours slowly working the window into the car body I was glad I didn't try to put the sealer on the bottom first, plus seeing the window sink down over an 1" onto the body and watching the foam compress, sort of told me I did the right thing in my case.

I think a team of glaziers that have done this before would disagree, but since this was my first time, and when it was done it was 1,000,000 times better then what was on the car before, I sort of didn't care.

I think if this is written into a manual on how to do it it should be included and let the reader decide how to approach it.

Interesting to note in the body assembly manual.

There is conflicting information: It stated that after the foam tape revision in mid 72, no sealant was to be used on the glass for sealing to the body. It was said the foam did the job. You were still suppose to seal the rubber to the glass however. I call Bollix on this you really need the sealant Plus the foam that window was born to leak in the rain.

A few months after it did my window I helped a friend with a 73 after his rear glass was broken when a bicycle fell from the storage area in his garage and broke the glass, when we removed the glass and rubber seal I noted that the foam was there but the rubber came right off the car like it had no sealant ever put on it.

I hope this doesn't confuse anyone, I defiantly think the glass needs sealant on the body and glass, but its hard to say if it will help or hurt you putting it on the lower part of the ledge before you start the install.

Good luck with your glass installation!
Great info. Well described, will come in handy when I'm ready to start installing my glass. Thanks

 
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OK Guys, I am here and you have me scared. I installed the sail panels yesterday and put the new seal on the rear glass. Mine is a heated rear glass.

I have read the articles and was surprised to see that we need foam tape under the seal. Mustang Monthly said they would show us the Ford method, then a better method, but I only found the Ford method of install on-line. So here are my primary questions at this point.

1) Is there a "better" method for a robust install than what is spelled out here and on the Mustang Monthly article?

2) Since my car was taken down to the bare unibody for restoration I am unsure if I need the bright trim between the trunk and the window installed before the glass, or after the glass. I think it is after, but confirmation is appreciated.

3) Is it best to use a 14 gage wire, or a nylon rope to roll the seal? (By Rolling I mean to pull the sealing lip to the inside.)

4) When pulling the rope or wire, I assume you start from the bottom center of the glass and pull evenly to the bottom corners first, then work slowly up each side as even as possible.

5) Finally, I assume there is no rush to apply the caulk after seating the window and seal. Mine will not see weather for a while.

Any other good advice?

Thanks!

kcmash

 
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Can anyone offer help here? I got ZERO replies to my tech questions above. Running out of vacation, I need to get this glass in!

Thanks!

kcmash

 

72HCODE

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thread from the dead :D I'll see if i can answer some of this: its been

8 years since i did this.

1) Is there a "better" method for a robust install than what is spelled out here and on the Mustang Monthly article?

Not that i ever saw, even new these windows would leak the design is horrible. the water really has no where to drain and it sits in the channel and then rotts things out. The idea is if you fill the channel with enough foam, rubber, caulk, then it will displace more water.

2) Since my car was taken down to the bare unibody for restoration I am unsure if I need the bright trim between the trunk and the window installed before the glass, or after the glass. I think it is after, but confirmation is appreciated.

The bright work is install Last, however the special clips that go on the studs in the channel must be installed before the glass and seals go in.

one error restorers make is they start with a rotted channel, and replace the sheet metal but forget to reinstall the special studs that clips sit on that holds the bright work to the frame. you can catch this later before the glass goes in and correct the problem but it involves drilling into fresh paint and installing studs with rivits or welding and then repainting the channel area.

but bright work last.

3) Is it best to use a 14 gage wire, or a nylon rope to roll the seal? (By Rolling I mean to pull the sealing lip to the inside.)

I used Nylon rope i got at CVS, it just has to fit in the channel for the rubber, the bottom of the window Just sits on the surface the sides and top of the seal is what holds it to the frame of the car. I was told not to put sealer on the bottom so if water did get in it could drain out. also it is pretty much impossible to get sealant down there any way.

i ran the rope like a U around the top and made sure when i lined up the window that the rope was visable inside the car at the lower corners of the glass then i pulled up evenly from the sides and up to the roof, with a helper Slapping the glass and holding pressure down, the window basically sucked into the car and seated down.

Foam tape(closed cell, so it does not hold water) goes on the ledge first, it overlaps with the headliner material and the painted window frame. the head liner should wrap around about 1/8" to 1/4" so the headliner sits about half way under the foam tape. the tape is needed to hold that rubber gasket seal tighter. So foam tape first get it all neat and sorted.

now i cannot remember if i taped the bottom edge, i need to find my old photos to see if i did or didn't, i might of left the bottom open for drainage.

foam tape, put the bright work clips in.

put the rubber gasket on the window, insert the rope into the rubber seal.

put glass on car line up. get helper who will push down on the glass carefully and flat slap the glass as needed to seat it, pressure the glass down and slap it as you pull the ropes the window will suck into the car and seat,, a couple more slaps.

confirm the foam tape didn't rip when the rubber seal went over and around it. now go back, lift the rubber seal on the edges of the glass and apply sealant under the rubber, clean the squeeze out as needed.

Fill the channel around the car frame and the rubber seal with a TON of sealant right up to near the top, make sure you leave some clearance for the brightwork.

carefully install the bright work. good chance you will damage it the aluminum is soft and you have to really push on it to get into the clips sometimes, the bright work tools are hit or miss they grab the clips and try to open them so you can push the bright work in.

now you can have a professional installer do the work and you provide them with materials and explain what you want.

the worst parts are the foam tape, because the glue on those is a One shot and you really want the foam tape to be continuous along the sides and top of the window you also want to keep the tape aligned on the inner edge so you have a good seal. then the sealant is a horrible messy job so you need to mask off the car to prevent paint damage.

4) When pulling the rope or wire, I assume you start from the bottom center of the glass and pull evenly to the bottom corners first, then work slowly up each side as even as possible.

5) Finally, I assume there is no rush to apply the caulk after seating the window and seal. Mine will not see weather for a while.

There is no rush once the window is in, doing the rubber to glass sealant is a good thing it will keep the glass from shifting with body twist. then later you can fill the channel with sealant. but do not start sealant then stop, if you start it then you need to finish it within the drying time.

Any other good advice?

Its not rocket science but it is not easy and even when you did a perfect job it can still leak. make sure you have a helper and explain exactly what is going to happen. slapping the glass is kind of dangerous you need a light touch but it still has to seat the glass down. i've known people do this and bust the glass, it happens.

Defroster glass you need to be a careful with the electrical connectors on the sides, make sure as you seat the window you keep them tucked into the car so visually keep an eye on them during install.

i converted from defroster glass to standard because my car did not come with a defroster system somebody thought they would upgrade to a defroster.

defrosters in the car I've only really needed it once, but i rolled the windows down and problem solved.

the wires for the defrost on the glass need to be checked before and after install so you didn't break any of the lines.

it is messy and tiring so work slow and if it takes time so be it.

my car it took me a couple of weekends, getting all the materials, then setup getting a helper and installing the glass took 10 minutes, but then it sat until i had the sealer and i went back in 2 stages, first sealant between rubber and glass then later filling the channel with sealant. use a tongue depressor to push the sealant into the channel. I used my finger BIG mistake i spent 5 years cleaning sealer i would randomly find off anything i touched.

good luck and remember you can always get a professional installer they may have better knowledge of sealants or they may use a Bonder instead of a sealer to really hold the glass on.

 

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Dan, Quick question:

Studs or Clips? You mentioned installing the brightwork clips before the glass... but I think you meant the studs for the clips.

The bright work is install Last, however the special clips that go on the studs in the channel must be installed before the glass and seals go in.one error restorers make is they start with a rotted channel, and replace the sheet metal but forget to reinstall the special studs that clips sit on that holds the bright work to the frame. you can catch this later before the glass goes in and correct the problem but it involves drilling into fresh paint and installing studs with rivits or welding and then repainting the channel area.
I ask because I'm getting close to this point myself, and I have new, repop brightwork (i.e. a bit thinner, and don't want to bend or tweak it during installation).

 

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the original clips snap onto studs around the window frames, lots of times the body guys replace the sheet metal in the window ledge area then forget to install new studs or they can't get studs and they leave it up to the paint and body guys or the glass guys to figure it out.

a solution is a flat head screw or button screw, so you would need to pre-measure where the clips go, mark it and then drill a hole position the clips and then screw them into the ledge (remember to use sealant on the screws to keep it from leaking and rusting again. the older mustangs used clips that you screwed in, the 71-73 had studs and the clips snaped on them. the clips just hold the bright work around the window so the job they have isn't too crazy.

the clips are suppose to go in first , but if you have a stud and the clip is no good or gets damaged you can pop it and replace it.

with a screw in the clips are in forever because you can't get the screws out once the window is in place.

that is the trade off.

as for bending the brightwork, or damaging it,, trust me it will get messed up in some way no matter how careful you are. you can use the trim tool to pull the clips in as you drop the brightwork on but it always catches on something and you get like a small bend in the metal.

a professional glass installer is going to have more experience, i did mine once my originals were all dented up so when i put them back i did some more damage but i didn't care it was such a pain i was glad it was over.

now the OEM trim is really soft to start, so i would imagine the repop stuff being thin has to be like tissue paper compared to original.

 

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All of the studs are present on mine. Oddly enough, as bad as my car was, the windshield & rear glass channels were in really great shape... must've been above the high water mark. rofl

I guess I need to research how to install the bright work, because I thought the clips went into the brightwork piece, then popped into place over the stud during installation. It sounds like you're saying the clips go on, and they snap into the brightwork pieces as they are placed into position.

I'm glad I asked, because I'm trying to minimize the instances of having to undo something because the first step of doing something else wasn't done beforehand.

 
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OK I am frustrated with this deal. I went to the local auto parts store and got the closed cell weatherstrip tape. (Shown Below) I open the package and start to unroll the stuff only to discover that it is double sided adhesive! WTF this seems to be the only stuff in town, I chose the 3/4 wide since that would fit the lip of the window sill without hanging over.

I figure the double sided adhesive would make the job impossible What kind of foam tape does your auto store have? Did you use 1" wide, or 3/4.

View attachment 22495

 

72HCODE

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that does not look like closed cell foam tape.

test it.. take a piece soak it in water, if it holds water like a sponge throw it out.

close cell foam is darker in color and it is kind of hard because the foam is denser and does not deair when you squeeze it.

you may have to special order it online if you can't get it local.

I bought mine from a user here on 7173 but he left a few years ago to do other things and i'm not sure if anyone else sold the correct tape after him...

i bought another roll of tape online and it was wide but i could cut it. i would need to find the box and see the maker i do not remember.

I bought it then the 7173 member hooked me up with the correct stuff.

-------------

for the bright work.. the clips go on first, then position the bright work, and push the edge near the clip the bright work snaps into the clips between the body and the clip. there is a special trim tool with a hook on the end kind of looks like a slim jim, and you hold the clip back from the body lay the bright work and then release the tool and it catches the brightwork. you still need to push down to seat it. personally i just smashed mine down and did well until i got to the end of the last piece and smashed a little too hard and dented an area in.. Called it perfect and moved on.. :)

 
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Is it like this from Don (Ohio Mustang Supply):

Item #E3ZZ-7624484

65-73 WEATHERSTRIP SEAL, 12 FT ROLL

Roof rail weatherstrip retainer channel to body seal and other various use. 12 foot roll, 1 inch wide with peel and stick adhesive backing.

Price: $15.95

 

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from my memory it is the correct foam but not the correct height, the roof rail foam is very thin because it gets squished between the drip rail and the headliner frame.

contact don and ask him what he uses for the rear window foam.

 
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OK, I exhausted every local option.

O'Reilly had a double sided tape, Home Depot has double sided "Sponge Rubber" which is a sponge, my local Mustang parts vendor does not carry foam tape, and NAPA has a EPDM single sided pictured below. The only problem with the EPDM is it has a narrow adhesive strip. The shot of the three tapes shows the CJ ponyparts tape, the NAPA Stuff and the Home Depot stuff.

Do you think I should go with the NAPA EPDM?

54tzr4.jpg


The close-up is of the NAPA EPDM. I missed my window window(ha ha) as vacation is over now, but I want to be ready with the tape. Please reply.

I did talk with the glass man doing the neighbors car(broken rear window) about the tape and he said don't use any foam tape, just use the caulk sealer after the gasket is in place. He said he had a little right angle panel tool that he used to pull the rubber seal edge up as he squeezed the caulk between the rubber and the body. I told him everyone else, including Ford recommended the tape. He stuck to his story.

Let me know what you think about the EPDM tape above or where I can order the right stuff tonight! I am so tired of seeing the automotive rating on the package and finding sponge rubber and double sided tape in the package! Thanks!

25tuujl.jpg


 

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The EPDM tape you show looks more correct, but i never worked with it.

now the tape should give when you squeeze it so if it is solid rubber and have very little give then it isn't good either.

i tried to go through some boxes i have for spares and i think i gave away the rolls of closed cell foam i did have some years ago.

now the foam tape was ford solution to making the rubber seal tighter, i guess if you had the correct applicator it would be possible to squeeze sealant in place of the foam.

i found this article

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/back-glass-install/

they talk about the close cell foam tape.

 
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The EPDM tape you show looks more correct, but i never worked with it.

now the tape should give when you squeeze it so if it is solid rubber and have very little give then it isn't good either.

i tried to go through some boxes i have for spares and i think i gave away the rolls of closed cell foam i did have some years ago.

now the foam tape was ford solution to making the rubber seal tighter, i guess if you had the correct applicator it would be possible to squeeze sealant in place of the foam.

OK, The EPDM does squeeze. It is about the same durometer as the CJ pony Parts stuff. It is AmeriSeal P/N 13160 www.amerisealusa.com. The only problem I have with it is the thinner adhesive strip on the back(not full width). I guess that doesn't really matter as we are supposed to squeeze the butyl caulk in the gaps anyway, right? This stuff is 3/16" high, and pliable so maybe it is the right choice.

They have an OE cross reference for multiple Ford, and GM convertible and T-Top applications. So I think it is a good choice.

i found this article

http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-to/paint-body/back-glass-install/

they talk about the close cell foam tape.
I did read that Mustang Monthly/Jeff Ford article. They just say foam tape with no detail on manufacturer or source of the tape.


One more question.

The rubber gasket seal on the window does not "wrap around" the body on the bottom, or trunk side, right? It just sits on the flange near the trunk. The other three sides need the grommet rolled over the headliner/ sail panel bond areas. Am I right?

If I am, it looks like we should NOT put the foam tape along the bottom edge. Do you agree or not?

 
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