Idler Arm Issue

[Upskid52]

I am having issues with my idler arm bracket that I ordered. When I am bolting it up to the frame it hits on the 45 angle so it won’t sit flush with the frame. I have went to another classic shop and they had the exact on that I had and told me to get a washer to where is sets it off of the frame but with this being the steering I don’t really want to do something that could fail or isn’t how it originally was installed. Does anyone know if that would be something y’all would do or a place that I could get a new one that is longer from the bottom hole to the 45? I would use the original but the threads a bulged and corroded at the start of them so it’s not useable.

 

[Steve McMahan]

What brand and part number is the new one?

 

[Stanglover]

https://7173mustangs.com/threads/seeking-help-advice-on-idler-arm.42857/This thread might help. If you look through ":similar threads" below, you'll find a lot of good info. If not go to "Search" and look there.
The Rare Parts version is one of the better ones out there, but you might need to slot the top hole upwards. I had to do that on my car, but other than that, an easy job, it fits and functions perfectly. The Scott Drake one is junk.
Attached is a sketch I did to illustrate the critical dimensions marked X & Y. Regardless of the shape of the arm, as long as these two match your original, it will be good.

 

[70cobrascj]

I am having issues with my idler arm bracket that I ordered. When I am bolting it up to the frame it hits on the 45 angle so it won’t sit flush with the frame. I have went to another classic shop and they had the exact on that I had and told me to get a washer to where is sets it off of the frame but with this being the steering I don’t really want to do something that could fail or isn’t how it originally was installed. Does anyone know if that would be something y’all would do or a place that I could get a new one that is longer from the bottom hole to the 45? I would use the original but the threads a bulged and corroded at the start of them so it’s not useable.

You could more than likely just use the other mount with the new arm?

 

[Flatback72]

Buy the one in the link here from West Coast Classic Cougar. It's the same one used for manual and power steering cars. The link even has installation photos to look at.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/71idler.html?sessionthemeid=26
I bought and installed this one two months ago for (power steering), it fitted perfectly and doesn't have any interference problems. Before I installed it I lined it up on the bench against the one I took off, geometry seemed identical or very close to identical. Functionality is perfect, I didn't bother with a wheel alignment, car tracks and handles great.

 

[c9zx]

Buy the one in the link here from West Coast Classic Cougar. It's the same one used for manual and power steering cars. The link even has installation photos to look at.

https://secure.cougarpartscatalog.com/71idler.html?sessionthemeid=26
I bought and installed this one two months ago for (power steering), it fitted perfectly and doesn't have any interference problems. Before I installed it I lined it up on the bench against the one I took off, geometry seemed identical of very close to identical. Functionality is perfect, I didn't bother with a wheel alignment, car tracks and handles great.

Where there any clues as to who actually made the part? Chuck

 

[Moderator73]

Were there any clues as to who actually made the part? Chuck

I also bought this WCCC part a year ago and it has WSD marked on the arm. I think it stands for World Wide Suspension distributor? You can see it in the second picture if it helps. As a note, mine came with a grease fitting. Bob

 

[Stanglover]

Where there any clues as to who actually made the part? Chuck

Good point Chuck.
There can only be a few companies who make these parts and I would suspect some will be made by just one company and 'branded' as if they were made by that company.
Getting one with grease nipples would be better as long as the geometry is the same as the original part.

 

[Flatback72]

Where there any clues as to who actually made the part? Chuck

I didn't notice the manufacturing stamping on mine before I put it on, thanks to Moderator73 posting a photo with manufacturer details.

One thing I would say is to beware of the Scott Drake version of the part. I first bought a Scott Drake version from a local Australian seller under Scott Drake part number D1ZZ-3350-AR (Power Steering), the version that turned up was in a sealed bag with the Scott Drake part number D1ZZ-3350-AR on it, but the idler arm had a shaft with an offset on it (in the pic on the right) and a bush on the other end that was about 1/2" too long, clearly not for a 71 to 73 Mustang. I could have made it work by cutting the bush to the right length, but the offset arm would have change the rotating arc geometry and I didn't trust it enough to keep the steering properly aligned.

 

[Stanglover]

I'm not sure if I mentioned this before, but I'm always baffled by idler arms being listed as power steering or manual. My car was manual from the factory and I upgraded to PS, leaving the idler arm as it was. I had no issues at all and the alignment was good. Later I did need to replace the idler arm and went through the same crap as many other are experiencing with aftermarket parts. Having had very little 'luck' with Scott Drake stuff on other parts I'd bought, I decided to buy the more expensive 3355-1A (Rare Parts) arm from NPD. It matched the old part with the exception of the top hole, which was round (if I remember) and out of line with the top frame hole. Other than that, the geometry was the same and that is what is important. Even though this part was about 160 bucks at the time, I would have expected the hole alignment to be correct, but I was able to easily slot the top hole so it fit. That was about 5 years ago and since I've had zero issues with it.
Now, this part in the NPD catalog is NOT listed for either, just saying it's a "replacement part" for 71-73 Mustang. The take away for that is there is no difference between PS or Manual idler arms.
As for "other" arms out there, I think it's the some old crap we get shoved down our throats all the time; " It's made for a 65, but it SHOULD fit a 71-73" BS I say, BS!

 

[Austin Vert]

I'm not sure if I mentioned this before, but I'm always baffled by idler arms being listed as power steering or manual. My car was manual from the factory and I upgraded to PS, leaving the idler arm as it was. I had no issues at all and the alignment was good. Later I did need to replace the idler arm and went through the same crap as many other are experiencing with aftermarket parts. Having had very little 'luck' with Scott Drake stuff on other parts I'd bought, I decided to buy the more expensive 3355-1A (Rare Parts) arm from NPD. It matched the old part with the exception of the top hole, which was round (if I remember) and out of line with the top frame hole. Other than that, the geometry was the same and that is what is important. Even though this part was about 160 bucks at the time, I would have expected the hole alignment to be correct, but I was able to easily slot the top hole so it fit. That was about 5 years ago and since I've had zero issues with it.
Now, this part in the NPD catalog is NOT listed for either, just saying it's a "replacement part" for 71-73 Mustang. The take away for that is there is no difference between PS or Manual idler arms.
As for "other" arms out there, I think it's the some old crap we get shoved down our throats all the time; " It's made for a 65, but it SHOULD fit a 71-73" BS I say, BS!

Hi Geoff,

Totally agree. You may recall in my idler arm help post, i strongly suspected that the recommended Scott Drake idler arm for 1,2,3's looks identical with the 1970 American Falcon idler arm assembly, which doesn't fit our cars. I also heard through the grapevine that Holley has taken over the Scott Drake Company, and the quality of product has somewhat slipped. If so, then that is sad.

Based on general feedback, and generally speaking, it would appear that the mass aftermarket quality has fallen off over the last 5 years or so across the board. I myself have noticed this to be the case based on certain products i have bought for my Mustangs over the last few years. Have you noticed that to chase a decent quality of parts these days, you have to spend fairly big money on them compared to older times when a low to mid range priced part did the job quite well, and got you out of trouble.

Sadly, i have been let down badly over the last few years, by even choosing to buy the quality items, and having them fail or not being up to scratch as well.
But that's the way of the World i guess.

Greg.

 

[Stanglover]

Hi Geoff,

Totally agree. You may recall in my idler arm help post, i strongly suspected that the recommended Scott Drake idler arm for 1,2,3's looks identical with the 1970 American Falcon idler arm assembly, which doesn't fit our cars. I also heard through the grapevine that Holley has taken over the Scott Drake Company, and the quality of product has somewhat slipped. If so, then that is sad.

Based on general feedback, and generally speaking, it would appear that the mass aftermarket quality has fallen off over the last 5 years or so across the board. I myself have noticed this to be the case based on certain products i have bought for my Mustangs over the last few years. Have you noticed that to chase a decent quality of parts these days, you have to spend fairly big money on them compared to older times when a low to mid range priced part did the job quite well, and got you out of trouble.

Sadly, i have been let down badly over the last few years, by even choosing to buy the quality items, and having them fail or not being up to scratch as well.
But that's the way of the World i guess.

Greg.

Greg, and I totally agree with you too. It's like the old song said (and I don't remember who sang it, before my time and I'm 76) "Things ain't what they used to be".
I'm almost to the point of saying enough, time to move on.

 

[Upskid52]

What brand and part number is the new one?

Were there any clues as to who actually made the part? Chuck

ACP is all remember. I have looked at paperwork and haven’t found anything.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I agree with 70cobrascj:

You could more than likely just use the other mount with the new arm?

if you feel uncomfortable with doing that, take it to a shop and have then change the mount shaft. I think that is your best opportunity to make it work. Steve

 

[Upskid52]

I agree with 70cobrascj:

if you feel uncomfortable with doing that, take it to a shop and have then change the mount shaft. I think that is your best opportunity to make it work. Steve

The old mount shaft threads are budged and corroded on the end so I can get a nut on it. I looked at cutting the bad part off put the I won’t have enough threads. The one that I did buy that the bracket isn’t long enough is WSD.
Has anyone had any luck with the Moog or Rare ones yet?

 

[70cobrascj]

I bought a rare parts 20250 off of eBay and it fits perfect with no issues.
It’s a lot beefier than the original.

 

[Steve McMahan]

I would bet a tap and die set could fix those threads. Or, maybe someone on this site has one they would sell you. Just a thought.

 

[Stanglover]

Just going back to this all important thread. Today I had the car out of the garage and that gave me opportunity to take a couple of pics of the Rare Parts idler arm (NPD # 3355-1A) It does have grease fittings.

EDIT: Please see my post below. I f'd up.

 

[Stanglover]

Oh boy, I f'd up and may have mislead people.
I have a confession to make and this is something I just realized when I was looking for an NPD receipt for something else, the PS high pressure hose.
I did NOT buy the Rare Parts idler arm 3355-1A, but it was 3355-1 that comes with grease fittings. This is may be why I needed to slot the top hole upwards. Looking at the Rare Parts picture, this top hole is already slotted. Also the shape of the arm is very different. HOWEVER, the geometry ought to be the same from my calculations.
My apologies to all who may have been mislead by my statements. I feel like a "dumb ***"
The sketch I posted is however correct in the fact that dimensions marked X & Y are the important ones to consider.

 

[mjlan]

For some reason I thought that the bushing torsional stiffness was different between manual and PS to help with the return to center feel. Since more positive caster can be dialed in with PS the idler has a stiffer bushing to provide more assistance to return the car to center.

I don't know if this is BS or not.

Carry on!