Ignition lock

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L.C.Gray

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 2, 2015
Messages
123
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1
Location
Heart of Texas
My Car
1973 Mustang Grande Coupe
(X)2008 Mustang Coupe
(X)2011 Mustang Premium Coupe
2017 Mustang Coupe
Wondering how complicated it is to change out the ignition switch/wheel lock switch on my 73. I have the keys, but cannot get the ignition key to work at all. The key is very worn and loose in the ignition switch, but I can't get it to turn at all no matter how I wiggle or jiggle the steering wheel and shifter.

I'm guessing the steering wheel and lock plate will have to come out of the column to access the lock cylinder assembly?

 
Yup. You have to remove the steering wheel to get at the retention pin hole:

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The second pic shows a close up view of the hole. The lock will need to be in the run position to be removed.

To get the lock working again. I would spray brake clean in the lock and then some teflon lube or similar to free the lock.

 
I've douched out the ignition good, but still luck.

I dunno whether to call the locksmith or the Ford dealer next...

 
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Have you tried using Houdini in the lock? It works better than anything else I have tried on a lock to free it up. Not the easiest to find. You will prob have to buy it from a locksmith.

 
What is Houdini?

 
Ok, after 2 weeks of this here's where I am...

After talking to both the locksmith and the Ford dealer they both pointed me at each other saying they couldn't do anything. I was resolved to drilling and replacing the column lock when things started to go more my way. I discovered pulling the door locks to look for a key code is a nothing thing. I pulled the drivers side, found nothing, pulled the passenger side and was rewarded with a stamped key code.

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The local dealer service guy told me that they couldn't do squat with anything over 10 years old. I went back and around him to the parts counter guy. Not only is he an old school gas in his veins parts man, he's an old Mustang guy too. His daily driver is a restored 66 Fastback GT.

I told him of my problems and he looked at what I had. He came out from the back shelf with one of his personal boxes of goodies and had not only the old decoding book that applied to my car, but the long fabled key code punch pliers as well. He rigged it all up and punched me a hew key.

Jeff's a great guy and wouldn't charge me for making the key, nor would he accept the $20 I tried to buy him lunch with.

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Really was wore out wasn't it? Well unfortunately it didn't work the column. I suspect that maybe it's been changed out in the past and I got the old keys, I dunno, either that or the locks just broke. Either way it looks like its gonna be back to drilling. At least I got a good door key out of it.

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You should be able to get a new ignition coded to the doors. Maybe you could go back to him and see if he could recode it once you get the new ignition. Otherwise, I see ignition and door lock sets for reasonable prices in many places.

 
Well, while I started the day out with great promise, I didn't get unlocked today.

What I did do was get the old fuel out of the car, the lines purged and got the engine cranked up for the first time in several years. It's runs smooth, purrs like a kitten and didn't smoke. Now I'm really itchin' to get 'er unlocked!

 
My son's 1972 coupe had a similar problem. I think the guy gave us a crap key that probably did not work in the ignition but worked in the door.

Anyway, we had to drill out the lock. In fact, I ended up breaking out the lock portion, peeling out the guts and tumblers with a needle nose pliers. Then when I got into it enough I had to break the lock pin out. The entire time you have to be very careful not to break the steering hub that is a soft cast metal part. Do all this work with the steering wheel removed so you can see the pin. Once I got to the bottom and got the tumbler out, a nice big screw driver helps getting everything to move and come out. Clean up any chips and carefully clean the column out. Then insert the new lock. This worked out well for us. Your experience may be better or worse. We might of just got lucky. However, in the end, the old key was useless and did not help us remove the old lock.

Another option is to park it in a bad neighborhood. They will have that lock defeated with minutes!!!

 
With my new keyed lock in hand I drilled the old lock out this evening. It drilled easier than I thought it would but I missed center and had to hog it out more to get it out. No discernible damage to the column but I couldn't get the new locks release pin to lock it into place. In the process of fooling with it I managed to pull the inner cylinder out of the body and mess the new lock up. I guess I'll have to order up another one and try again, but I'm making progress.

 
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Finally! Mission Success!

I have my 73 re-keyed and driving! It took 2 tries at installing the new column lock, ruined the first one. Was able to bring the brand new 5 yr old Die Hard back to life. Total cost to get it back on the road.... $39 for 2 lock assemblies and about $30 worth of fresh gas in the tank.

Really an eye opener on how these old cars drove, especially how they steer.

Overall it runs and drives good.

 
I see everyone scared about old tires. I just dollyed a 73 vert back from Dearborn 650 miles on tires that had been on car at least the last 13 years it sat in garage. the car was also packed with all the parts I could put in and so was my truck. Stayed about 60 - 65 mph all the way. Every time I stopped I checked the tires to see if they were hot but were always ok. Right wheel bearing got a little warmer than the left. Drive shaft was unhooked of course. I have one car that the tires are 65 years old and still drive it. I don't go fast but still drive it. I think that the sun is the biggest enemy of tires and if out of the sun they hold up.

Just my experience,

David

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A new wheel/tire package is at the top of the to do list. Until then it'll only be driven low speeds around town.

 
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