Is this the real issue?!?

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Chapa

Member
Joined
Mar 13, 2011
Messages
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Location
Dallas
My Car
1971 Mustang Grande 302
I need help so I dont spend any more money on this issue. Will my 71 grande 302 has been giving me issues with just shutting off. I would turn it on and it would stay on for a while then turn off like it didnt have gas. I would fire it back up fine and it would turn off faster and faster the more i fired it back up. I took of the fuel line that goes to the carb to see if it is pumping gas and it was but the gas was coming out rusty. So thinking it was a rust issue replaced the gas tank and found ALOT of rust in the tank and on the sending unit and also replaced the fuel filter. After this the car did stay on a little long but still ended up shutting back off the same way. This weekend I was planning on replacing the carberator and the fuel pump becuase someone from the forum told me i may have a issue in my pump with rust by the diaphram. BUT before i do all this is there any test I can do or any ideas people can tell me on other reasons why this might be happening before I spend the money on something that isnt the real issue!

 
Try a clear filter (temporary) so that you can see what it happening. You will be able to see if you have gas to the carb and you will be able to see if there is a rust issue. Are you sure it is gas related? You could have a coil problem as it warms up it shuts down.

 
Try a clear filter (temporary) so that you can see what it happening. You will be able to see if you have gas to the carb and you will be able to see if there is a rust issue. Are you sure it is gas related? You could have a coil problem as it warms up it shuts down.
I really dont know thats why I was asking to see if poeple can give me different opinons on what the problem might be and how to check if to see if it is what they say. I know now i have gas to the carb becuase I diconnected the fuel line to the carb many times just to check.

 
I had an issue like yours years ago with a friends car and the rust trashed the holley carb. Car would die, then I would pull the bowls and clean out the carb and it would run again for a little bit then stall again, repeat process same result. Cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Took care of the problem.

 
I had an issue like yours years ago with a friends car and the rust trashed the holley carb. Car would die, then I would pull the bowls and clean out the carb and it would run again for a little bit then stall again, repeat process same result. Cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Took care of the problem.
I was talking to chapa a while ago and he said he already did replace all that, except for the fuel lines...

I had a similar problem with a very very tired 351W that it overheated and shut himself down..

I didn´t care cause it was going to be rebuilt but, i´m thinking maybe Chapa´s problem can be something else than the Carb (NEW), Tank (New) and Fuel Pump (NEW TOO)...

Could it be some problem at the valves for example??

 
Even if it's all been replaced, I still think it most likely is rust. A little rust goes a long way in a carb.

 
Pull carb and dismantle and soak overnight in cleaner and rebuild, I would also change the fuel pump while you are at it, to make sure there is no debris trapped anywhere. That should solve your problems

 
I had an issue like yours years ago with a friends car and the rust trashed the holley carb. Car would die, then I would pull the bowls and clean out the carb and it would run again for a little bit then stall again, repeat process same result. Cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Took care of the problem.
I was talking to chapa a while ago and he said he already did replace all that, except for the fuel lines...

I had a similar problem with a very very tired 351W that it overheated and shut himself down..

I didn´t care cause it was going to be rebuilt but, i´m thinking maybe Chapa´s problem can be something else than the Carb (NEW), Tank (New) and Fuel Pump (NEW TOO)...

Could it be some problem at the valves for example??

acually I haven't replaced the pump or the carb yet I was telling you that it was going to get replaced this weekend haha sorry for the misunderstanding but yea I didn't want to replace them if it didn't have to or they weren't the problem. :-/

 
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Pull carb and dismantle and soak overnight in cleaner and rebuild, I would also change the fuel pump while you are at it, to make sure there is no debris trapped anywhere. That should solve your problems
As don said too.. Maybe rúst went into the carb from the fuel line that was not replaced.. I suggested Chapa to do the test of disconecting the line at the pump and use a bottle with fuel instead of the tank and lines... He can do that but if he is capable to clean the carb by himself, that sure goes first...

Try that chapa and is you clean the carb and conect a bottle to the pump, the problem should be solved... Then clean somehow the fuellines and maybe use an extra line filter to be sure there's no mOre rúst going into the carb..



I had an issue like yours years ago with a friends car and the rust trashed the holley carb. Car would die, then I would pull the bowls and clean out the carb and it would run again for a little bit then stall again, repeat process same result. Cleaned out the fuel tank, replaced the fuel pump and rebuilt the carb. Took care of the problem.
I was talking to chapa a while ago and he said he already did replace all that, except for the fuel lines...

I had a similar problem with a very very tired 351W that it overheated and shut himself down..

I didn´t care cause it was going to be rebuilt but, i´m thinking maybe Chapa´s problem can be something else than the Carb (NEW), Tank (New) and Fuel Pump (NEW TOO)...

Could it be some problem at the valves for example??

acually I haven't replaced the pump or the carb yet I was telling you that it was going to get replaced this weekend haha sorry for the misunderstanding but yea I didn't want to replace them if it didn't have to or they weren't the problem. :-/
Ohhh! Sorry chapa!! It is my bad english!!

Then, try cleaning the carb and if you can, replace the pump... Then conect it to a bottle to test and if it works, concentrate on cleaning the línes and the tank!! Even easier my friend!! :)

 
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I would start with the easiest thing to check.....put a clear inline fuel filter in and start with that at least you will be able to see if you're still getting any rust.

BTW were all the lines changed?

Now just thinking off the top of my head.....I had a problem where the car would start up....run and I'd be fidling with something and it would die....turned out I had a floating ground..broken wire and every time i moved something or I went over a bump that would be enough for it to ground out and die.

Ken

 
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I would start with the easiest thing to check.....put a clear inline fuel filter in and start with that at least you will be able to see if you're still getting any rust.

BTW were all the lines changed?

Now just thinking off the top of my head.....I had a problem where the car would start up....run and I'd be fidling with something and it would die....turned out I had a floating ground..broken wire and every time i moved something or I went over a bump that would be enough for it to ground out and die.

Ken
I think the owner before had new lines but in but for as long as I have owned it (1 year) it has not been changed ... And I understand ur story but the only difference is that I don't even have to be driving it because even in idle it will sputter and turn off. But this friday I will be putting in a new carb. & pump along with maybe blowing out the fuel lines with a air compressor. I just didn't want to buy everything is weekend if someone knows what other things it could be.

 
If it were me, I'd do it as others have said, going cheapest to more expensive:

1) Remove fuel filter and add clear in-line filter - $5

2) Replace fuel pump - $20

3) Remove and clean gas tank - not expensive but a real PITA

4) Remove and clean/replace fuel lines - ??

5) Remove and clean/replace carb - ??

If you're getting good fuel flow to the filter, then you may not need to replace the pump. If there's rust in the filter, you'll need to clean your carb out really well and check the lines and tank.

Doc

 
With your earlier posts I was thinking electrical, points or condensor or distributor/coil... I was going to ask if it "stumbled" or just shut down... but in the later post, I see you said it stumbled.

Mine had a single strand of wire going from the distributor to the coil, so I think that was part of my problem trying to get it started (apart from no gas in the tank :D) I would check the electrical also.

 
Starting with what we know I would agree with Doc on the fuel system diagnostic progression and rule that out first. You may go through a couple of filters before you get the contamination out of the system. You may want to install an additional filter before the pump to catch the big chunks.

I would run a compression test to see if the engine has a chance of running good.

When convinced the fuel system is not the problem then look into other systems.

As with any good diagnostic procedure take the things you know have issues and correct them. Use a systematic approach.

 
Starting with what we know I would agree with Doc on the fuel system diagnostic progression and rule that out first. You may go through a couple of filters before you get the contamination out of the system. You may want to install an additional filter before the pump to catch the big chunks.

I would run a compression test to see if the engine has a chance of running good.

When convinced the fuel system is not the problem then look into other systems.

As with any good diagnostic procedure take the things you know have issues and correct them. Use a systematic approach.
Thanks you and doc for the advice it was very helpful. I will do just as yall say but one note is the gas tank has already been replaced. And I'll move down the list while I'm installing things and keep the expensive stuff for last :). And yes it is stumbling or sputtering when it cuts off that is why I thought it was a gas problem and also the rust in the lines. OH and how do I do a compression test once I do get it running? They only thing I will not be replacing due to my budget is the fuel lines besides that the pump carb. And filters have been bought already :D.

 
Chapa

Never say Never....if it is rust that you get in the fuel filter...the next best thing to replace to eliminate a huge headache would be the fuel lines.....I'm pretty sure that I've seen them advertised in one of the catalogs...do yourself a favor

Ken

 
See if you can borrow one from someone. It has a hose that screws into the spark plug hole and connects to a gage. you then crank the engine to get a reading, write these numbers down, they should be relatively equal.

 
If you already have the new carb and pump, do what i said... Istall them, buy some gas hoses and try start the engine using a bottle istead of the lines and tank... If the problem is fuel, it must run perfect with this test configuration... If it does run, clean the fuel lines as hard as you can (any advices to do that?) and just to make sure, empty the tank and check if the gas is as clear as it should be... If it is so, conect everything as it supposed to go and it must run like crazy!!!

But remember... If there is rust in the system, you are gonna spoil the pump or the carb... Check everything first...

If the problem persist, dont get too mad... It also can be something electrical my friend....

 
I have to agree with some of the other guys - eliminate any fuel problems (flush fuel, clean tank, blow out lines) then look at your electrical system. Dirty points or faulty wiring can cause lots of problems, especially floating grounds. Floating grounds can cause a lot of mystery problems.

 
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