Jacking Rails

[rcadd1ct]

Anyone seen a kit or pre welded set of jacking rails for our cars like pictured?

TIA.

 

[tony-muscle]

Couldn't you use a subframe connector as a rail for the jack? Subframe connectors run very close to the rocker panel edge.

 

[rcadd1ct]

Hard to see, but I have old school subframe connectors on my project.

I had bottomed out my car as a teen. Creased the roof. All has been straightened out, but trying to reinforce where I can without adding a roll cage.

Also, stupidly I cut out the back seat area years ago.

Looking to add structure to the pinch weld for better torsional rigidity.

 

[mjlan]

I have built my subframe connectors the way you have- through the floor. My thought process was it was worth all of the extra work because it adds so much more stiffness to the car than simply tying the front and rear subfames together.

The front and rear torque boxes are tying the frame rails (your connectors are now essentially frame rails) to the rockers so I don't know how much of a stiffness improvement jacking rails are goint to provide for the effort to install them.

I have debated what you are debating now on my car as its still blown apart in the middle of rust repair. The subframe connectors will help reduce the flexing between the front and rear suspensions, making big improvements to the resistance to supension inputs is best done by adding a cage of some kind in my opinion. If you don't want a cage (which I sure don't, I like the full interior and the bars are too intrusive) I would convice myself that the rear frame rails can't move around at all and the front strut tower/ apron/ cowl area is as robust as it could be. Add a bar across the engine bay to limit how much the tops of the strut towers can move would probably be good?

Just throwing thoughts out there.

Nice job on the connector install BTW, cleaner than mine!

 

[rcadd1ct]

I have built my subframe connectors the way you have- through the floor. My thought process was it was worth all of the extra work because it adds so much more stiffness to the car than simply tying the front and rear subfames together.

The front and rear torque boxes are tying the frame rails (your connectors are now essentially frame rails) to the rockers so I don't know how much of a stiffness improvement jacking rails are goint to provide for the effort to install them.

I have debated what you are debating now on my car as its still blown apart in the middle of rust repair. The subframe connectors will help reduce the flexing between the front and rear suspensions, making big improvements to the resistance to supension inputs is best done by adding a cage of some kind in my opinion. If you don't want a cage (which I sure don't, I like the full interior and the bars are too intrusive) I would convice myself that the rear frame rails can't move around at all and the front strut tower/ apron/ cowl area is as robust as it could be. Add a bar across the engine bay to limit how much the tops of the strut towers can move would probably be good?

Just throwing thoughts out there.

Nice job on the connector install BTW, cleaner than mine!

View attachment 85595

Shop did one in the 90’s

Another shop did the second connector and cleaned up the first in the early 2k’s. They also added rectangular tubing as far forward as possible on the front torque boxes to about 3/4 back on the connectors.

I still need to add some plates to cover the factory four post lift points to tie into the body more.

That and the jack rails should help rigidity.

I plan on going with the RRS three link so a lot of the stresses will be on the reinforced rails

Just the watts link and coil over upper mounts will behind the end of the connectors.

That is the plan, anyway. I need to find a job first. I can afford the raw steel to do the jacking rails. Just not the full rear suspension.


View attachment 72928352527__3C656FD6-D696-49F1-BF7F-05DE0942F9D5.MOV