Looking for photos of ram air hoods with added scoop

[rcadd1ct]

Personally the airflow is nice, but you will get more power from cooler air than max cfm

Look at some of the Kenne Bell tests. I will try to drop a link.

Longer read, but the efficiencies are in there....

http://kennebell.net/KBWebsite/Tech_Articless_pg/links/tech_articles/BOOSTED.pdf

Denser intake charge will gain you more hp than air flow.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I ordered the lid, and I tend to agree about the cooler air part too. I have more power than I can use anywhere except maybe the dragstrip at this time.

The product listing shows the height of the lid as 1" I'm curious if it actually adds that to total height or not.

 

[rcadd1ct]

I ordered the lid, and I tend to agree about the cooler air part too. I have more power than I can use anywhere except maybe the dragstrip at this time.

The product listing shows the height of the lid as 1" I'm curious if it actually adds that to total height or not.

Excellent!

I hope it does what you need.

They do look cool.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

as far as heat goes, I've had my headers ceramic coated but haven't done anything else to really keep temperatures down. I have a few ideas for improving airflow through the radiator, like building a cap between the grill and the radiator support and a partial underbelly pan from the radiator support to the front crossmember. It would be nice to have some sort of heat extractors that actually worked. I also am unsure as to whether opening the ram air scoops would help or not, I've run both ways in the past, but haven't been able to detect a difference. I suppose need a remote thermometer for underhood temperatures to figure out what works and what doesn't

 

[mudbilly]

If I had it to do all over again, I would have my headers coated with this.

http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

I talked to them and I'd first have to have mine stripped before they'd touch them, I decided to live with what I got. Which is whatever Hedman puts on at the factory.

I have a nice burn scar on my hand from brushing against the pipe while fiddling with a power steering leak. It was funny the first time, because I was sure I could get my hand down there without touching the header..... Not so much a minute later when I CONVINCED myself that I now knew exactly how to get my hand down there without touching it again.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Mine were coated by Nitroplate which is about 5 miles from my house and it is a very effective coating as I use it on my Buell exhaust that sits about an inch from my leg when riding and it dropped temperatures significantly!

Swain may be good, but the hype seems overblown to me

 

[rcadd1ct]

I had my HD exhaust jet hot coated.

Expensive, but they did excellent work.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Well I have the new lid on and it fits. I used clay to check clearance and actually have a bit more room than I thought.

My damn HEI distributor is what causes a fitment problem. It forces me to use an offset base and even then, I have to dimple the base to clear the carb's front float adjustment. I'd like to use a drop base and lower the assembly down some, (which would let me run a taller element) but the space between the carb and distributor is just too tight to use anything I can find.

I think it would look better if I could drop it an inch

 

[tony-muscle]

Well I have the new lid on and it fits. I used clay to check clearance and actually have a bit more room than I thought.

My damn HEI distributor is what causes a fitment problem. It forces me to use an offset base and even then, I have to dimple the base to clear the carb's front float adjustment. I'd like to use a drop base and lower the assembly down some, (which would let me run a taller element) but the space between the carb and distributor is just too tight to use anything I can find.

I think it would look better if I could drop it an inch

Have you consider going EFI?.... those units are typically smaller than the cabs, which may give you some more space plus the efficiency and adjustability of EFI.

1971 M-code Mach 1

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

nah. efi is nice for a daily driver, my engine would lose 50+ horsepower with EFI. I don't mind tuning a carb a bit here and there and my car starts better than most, normally fires in the first rotation or two of the crank BOOM! and she is off and idling.

 

[turtle5353]

Well I have the new lid on and it fits. I used clay to check clearance and actually have a bit more room than I thought.

My damn HEI distributor is what causes a fitment problem. It forces me to use an offset base and even then, I have to dimple the base to clear the carb's front float adjustment. I'd like to use a drop base and lower the assembly down some, (which would let me run a taller element) but the space between the carb and distributor is just too tight to use anything I can find.

I think it would look better if I could drop it an inch

Looks good Jeff! Now just need to ditch that HEI CHEVY stuff!!

I am running a MSD pro billet and have a standard filter and a 1 inch spacer under the carb and I don't have any clearance issues.

Also, why would you lose 50hp with EFI?? Just curious cause I was looking into possibly swapping to efi but I definitely don't want to lose any HP.

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

Most EFI units atre limited in their capacity, 600 id the limitation except for some of the higher end systems. i might not lose power, but for a proper system I'd be looking at a few grand. carburetors have an advantage in some situations in that the fuel cools the charge due to evaporation. A throttle body EFI unit does too, but if the injectors are close to the port you lose that. That is one reason you see all the new car guys looking for cold air intakes. Since my compression level is so high for a street driven car, I would be concerned that I'd have a power loss as a result of that. Also cam profiles really should be matched to an EFI system to allow the sensors to operate properly-mt cam would likely have to be replaced with something with a smoother idle-milder.

Could an efi version be built with equal or greater power? Yes, but it isn't worth it to me.

 

[turtle5353]

Most EFI units atre limited in their capacity, 600 id the limitation except for some of the higher end systems. i might not lose power, but for a proper system I'd be looking at a few grand. carburetors have an advantage in some situations in that the fuel cools the charge due to evaporation. A throttle body EFI unit does too, but if the injectors are close to the port you lose that. That is one reason you see all the new car guys looking for cold air intakes. Since my compression level is so high for a street driven car, I would be concerned that I'd have a power loss as a result of that. Also cam profiles really should be matched to an EFI system to allow the sensors to operate properly-mt cam would likely have to be replaced with something with a smoother idle-milder.

Could an efi version be built with equal or greater power? Yes, but it isn't worth it to me.

Thanks Jeff. I'm probably in the same boat as you then. And I definitely don't want to replace my cam. My motor is pretty heavily built also. So I better just keep saving my garage money for the 5 or 6 speed swap!!

 

[Jeff73Mach1]

I love having a 5 speed! I daily drive a 6 speed and it only has one overdrive gear-it seems like a waste to me to have that extra gear.

an overlooked alternative is a T-45. They can be built to run behind a SFB but require a front plate swap. http://www.thet45source.com/transmissions.php might be worth talking to if you are interested as I believe they can build you a nearly bulletproof transmission that will shift like slicing butter. Mine was built by Keisler which is now out of business.

the LGT700 looks to be a great option gear ratio and sizewise and is designed for 700 ft pounds of torque-it would be worth researching but I have no personal experience with one http://www.waldenspeedshop.bigcartel.com/legend-gear-trans-lgt-700