Matching numbers

[naa10104]

Hello,

have a sick feeling in my stomach, just found out the car I was sold as "matching numbers", original block/motor may not be. I have the VIN, most of the original build sheet, and now the numbers off of the driver's side rear of the block,(351 C 2V). How do I determine if the engine is original to the car. Thanks for your help I think

 

[72MustangSprint]

Is the motor in the car? There is the last six of VIN stamped on the block below the heads on the back of the motor. Some have used a mirror to see it, if the motor still in car.

 

[judge]

It is stamped on the rear most flange, facing up. Behind the intake and right before the trans or bellhousing. You usually have to scrap the flange clean of paint to read it. It will read something like "2F123456" that indicates "year(2), plant(F), and sequence number" in this example.

 

[naa10104]

Is the motor in the car? There is the last six of VIN stamped on the block below the heads on the back of the motor. Some have used a mirror to see it, if the motor still in car.

HI,

It is a 73 Mustang convertible, 351 C 2 V. The numbers on the rear of the block are 540473, either to the left or below these numbers are the letters CAR. The last six of the VIN are 237370. Appreciate any info. you can provide and thanks !

steve

It is stamped on the rear most flange, facing up. Behind the intake and right before the trans or bellhousing. You usually have to scrap the flange clean of paint to read it. It will read something like "2F123456" that indicates "year(2), plant(F), and sequence number" in this example.

HI,

It is a 73 Mustang convertible, 351 C 2 V. The numbers on the rear of the block are 540473, either to the left or below these numbers are the letters CAR. The last six of the VIN are 237370. Appreciate any info. you can provide and thanks !

steve

 

[72HCODE]

The number will be on the drivers side just below the head stamped on the block.

It will be a partial number...

My memory is Hazy but it should read f3 then your unit number which is the last digits of the vin.

The fender and door and dash vins are complete vin numbers but the block is a partial number.

The trans wasn't stamped on the low end cars.

I'd have to find my cars pictures to make sure I've forgotten a lot.

Here is a picture of the location of the number on the block

 

[naa10104]

The number will be on the drivers side just below the head stamped on the block.

It will be a partial number...

My memory is Hazy but it should read f3 then your unit number which is the last digits of the vin.

The fender and door and dash vins are complete vin numbers but the block is a partial number.

The trans wasn't stamped on the low end cars.

I'd have to find my cars pictures to make sure I've forgotten a lot.

Here is a picture of the location of the number on the block

HI, yep that is where the number si referred to are located. and they don't match the VIN. Don't know what the CAR means, there is no F3 that I could see in this area. Thanks

 

[imusa76]

I made this up last year while working on my engine.

its based off my 72' 302 engine, I hope it helps.



Ford 302 MARKINGS.pdf

 

[72HCODE]

Could be a replacement block.

Somebody might of assumed it was matching number if it was a 2bbl Cleveland that matched the marti report but didn't know about the vin on the block.

The only reason I kept my engine was it turned out my car is matching numbers as far as the engine is concerned.

Have to find my pictures to give you an idea.

I couldn't find the photo but I went out to the car with a mirror and a flashlight

What you should see is the unit number on the block

So let's say your vin is 1F05H11245

Then you will see at least 11245 on the block. Now the vin stamp on the block will be very uneven.

It is really hard to see this number with the engine in the car.

 

[Totalled]

 

[naa10104]

Could be a replacement block.

Somebody might of assumed it was matching number if it was a 2bbl Cleveland that matched the marti report but didn't know about the vin on the block.

The only reason I kept my engine was it turned out my car is matching numbers as far as the engine is concerned.

Have to find my pictures to give you an idea.

I couldn't find the photo but I went out to the car with a mirror and a flashlight

What you should see is the unit number on the block

So let's say your vin is 1F05H11245

Then you will see at least 11245 on the block. Now the vin stamp on the block will be very uneven.

It is really hard to see this number with the engine in the car.

Thanks ... the number on my block is stamped, looks like by hand, it is somewhat uneven. I can't find any reference for what the "CAR" letters denote. I will have to check the motor today for any other numbers, and check the other side of the block. I was able to view my numbers with the car up on a lift, using a flashlight.

 

[OMS]

The number will be on the drivers side just below the head stamped on the block.

It will be a partial number...

My memory is Hazy but it should read f3 then your unit number which is the last digits of the vin.

The fender and door and dash vins are complete vin numbers but the block is a partial number.

The trans wasn't stamped on the low end cars.

I'd have to find my cars pictures to make sure I've forgotten a lot.

Here is a picture of the location of the number on the block

Dan, the block and the trans will have

last digit of the year, plant code and the last 6 of the vin

Don

 

[will e]

Do you feel like you paid extra due to the 'matching numbers'? Is it a nice car otherwise? In my opinion 'generally' the matching number isn't that important unless you have a more rare motor combination OR the car is being sold as low mileage survivor 'like it came from the factory' type condition.

 

[jeff8877]

Check the date code on the block and see if it precedes your build date from one to ninety days. If it doesn't then you know for sure the block has been changed.