Motor install w/headers?

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Omie01

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2014
Messages
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Location
Minnesota, USA
My Car
1972 H code fastback Boss 351 clone
I am hoping to finally put my motor back in its home this weekend, my dyno/ break-in run got delayed until this Friday, I'm hoping all goes well and we can drop the motor in this weekend. My question is this: can I get the motor (351C) back in the car with the Hooker headers on motor. They are the ones for the mustang. I'm also hoping to get engine/trans in as a single unit. I have access to a forklift to take care of the lifting duties, I will be using the manifold lifting plate so I can articulate the motor. Has anybody done this?

 
No to the first question (headers). Yes to the second question (engine and trans). Please be careful use a fork lift to do this. Chuck

 
+1 on Chuck's advice - save the headers for after the engine's in-place. ::thumb::

It kills me watching people struggle with removing/installing engine & tranny as a single unit. For instance, I was watching Desert Car Kings years ago, and they were pulling a 351C/FMX out of a Ranchero as a single piece - full of fluids. Watching them struggle and make a ridiculously huge mess, along with hearing how it took them several hours before they finally got the 'angle of the dangle' just right just had me shaking my head and changing the channel.

Sorry, but I had my rusting chunk 351C out in about 15 minutes with a cherry picker, and the transmission about 10 minutes later - and I'm not a professional by any means. Since my engine was seized, there was also no rotating to get the torque converter off the flex plate, so that was a little bit of extra head scratchin' involved.

Conversely, when it all went back in it took me longer to find the chain to use on the cherry picker than it did to drop the engine in - 5 minutes from first hoist to sliding in the last bolts of the engine mounts. The transmission was in about 10 minutes later.

Since you can get to all of the engine bolts easily from the top, I'd recommend installing them separately... especially if you happen to like not having any new scratches and dents. Just my opinion.

I'm not gonna lie - I had access to a lift, which I'm sure made all the difference in the world with the transmission. However, installing items like this are a LOT easier when they're separate and dry.

Good luck with it however you decide to go.

 
Thanks for the info guys, I have pulled motors with pulleys in trees, cherry pickers, and by hand and nothing ever seems to go smooth. I was thinking with the forklift weight wouldn't be an issue, as all my cherry pickers seem to get IFFY once the motor is way up. I don't like how they feel just on the verge of breaking or bending. I think with the motor lifted by something right above it, it will stay more positioned. I'm thinking to lift the whole works slightly tipped back, once the tail shaft of the tranny is down low enough to pad a jack head, let the tailshaft rest in the jack cup, let the jack roll back and lift with the jack at the same time to start leveling the whole works back out, by the time the motor is just above its mounts everything should be close to level and were it should be. lift the tranny just enough to get the mount in place, then let the motor the rest of the way down on its mounts. Sounds good in theory. I dont have a car lift, and don't feel like bench pressing a tranny this weekend! I didn't think the headers could go in at the same time, but you don't know if you don't ask. Should I send the headers up from the bottom, or go in from the top? With power steering I'm guessing from the bottom?

 
Heres a pic of how I installed mine. I used a carb plate lifting plate. Once the trans was mostly in I put a jack under the tailshaft to help guide it the rest of the way. It was easy and I had both of my headers on. this almost how I always do it, motor and trans together. if you don't have access to a lift, then its way easier to get the motor and trans bolted together outside of the car. Just my opinion. I have done this many many times with my car..... too many!!!

29atp9e.jpg


 
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Depends on the hookers. I don't think you can with super comps but I haven't tried with just the comps. The comps are shorter and tuck closer to the engine and transmission than the super comps do.

 
Installed mine as a single unit and there was the 2 of us and it went in with no problems. I did this with the car on jack stands and did not have a lift so getting the tranny on as a separate unit would have been difficult for me. On my build I used 2 sets of headers, Hooker Comp and Super Comp but changed them out when I had the main bearing issue. Hooker competition headers that I used originally fit and installed with no issues and the motor mounted in place. After the motor fix I switched to Hooker Super Comp headers and to clear the steering box I had to tie them to the side of the engine bay and lowered the motor in place. For the passenger side I had to lift the motor, remove the motor mount and then install the header.



Depends on the hookers. I don't think you can with super comps but I haven't tried with just the comps. The comps are shorter and tuck closer to the engine and transmission than the super comps do.
I had a set of Super comps installed a few years ago by a shop and they did it on a lift and the motor in place. During the rebuild when I removed the motor I noticed that the mounts had been torch cut at the corners so I am assuming that there was an issue getting them in. I had never noticed this.

When I installed them I investigated why the were cut and saw the clearance was only 1/8" in places by the motor mount so that explained the torching.

 
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Mine are the regular Hooker comps. I know they don't interfere with the motor mounts. Cross member, not sure of. Thanks for all the input!! What a fount of information!!

 
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